if you count eco mode {or whatever max' wants to insist on calling it }),
and in the above scenario there has been no change...ever. It always does it. No I haven't tried a throttle tamer, but I think I can simulate one by being extra careful and gradually adding throttle which I have tried and got nasty snatch regardless.
maybe all shaft drives do that as I've only owned one of those.
Hi all
Thank you all so much for your replies. Very informative. I think as much as anything, I wondered if my bike had the flies- I am planning on a full service in Spring, but can't take the bike off the road as it's my 'daily drive'.
My bike is registered on 1st August 2007 and I'm in England
The title was intentional
I've adjusted the cables and idle speed. Have stuff to do, so wont test it until my commute tomorrow, but I think it will make a big difference.
<snip>
I've had all three flashes* (4 if you count the OEM factory flash; 5 if you count eco mode {or whatever max' wants to insist on calling it }), I've had my throttle adjusted per the owner's manual,
and I have it as Steve said to adjust it where it has no play at all....and in the above scenario there has been no change...ever. It always does it. Now with over 90,000 miles on my bike it could be
that I have excessive drive line wear, however my C14 has done this since new in 2011. No I haven't tried a throttle tamer, but I think I can simulate one by being extra careful and gradually
adding throttle which I have tried and got nasty snatch regardless. Frankly I give up, it's just going to stay nasty. I still love the bike anyway and I like two of the 3 after market flashes (I'm not getting
into the which is better wars, let's leave that on the other forum where it belongs) but none of them solved this problem.
Before someone says all bikes do that, my Dr650 doesn't, maybe all shaft drives do that as I've only owned one of those.
* Guhl; Steve's Decel; Ivan's
I've found that fresh gear oil in the rear seems to help, also.
Shaft drive bikes have more drive train play due to gear clearance and so present more of a problem with throttle snatch that chain drive bikes do.
Plus chain drive bikes have a little give in the chain as it comes up to full tightness when rolling on the throttle while shaft drive bikes simply use up the clearance and the gears slam into each other.
Rode much better on the test commute. Problem feels 50%+ better. If that's as good as I can get it, then I'll be ok with that. One thing that does bother me is when 'overclosing' the throttle, the bike stalls. And only when cold. It did it before I made the adjustment, I just forgot to mention it.
Never thought of it that way.
But our shaft drive has a cush-drive that would absorb at least some shock (or at least isolate that from transmitting to the ground), acting like a "stretching" unit, too, no?
I think the way the throttle is closed plays a role in this as well. It's a minute thing but rather than abruptly closing it, try easing into the closed position (if that makes sense) then easing out.
Chain drive bikes also have a cush drive and it serves the same purpose. [...]
But no matter how good the 'fix' or damper is, nothing beats not generating that metallic clack in the first place and chain drives just do not generate it. So yes, the cush drive does make a shaft drive motorcycle transfer power better and buffers it but shaft drives just cannot be as smooth as chains or belts.
I think part of the problem is that the frame/motor/ecu were designed for the ZZR1400 (ZX14) which is chain driven.
Is there anyone on here that has an FJR1300 or Honda ST1300 that can comment on how snatchy those injected shaft-drive bikes are.
Welcome Pillow
Nice initial subject line
You will never get rid of the snatch, but correct adjustment of the cables and one of SiSFs flashes helps greatly (I have the Decel flash but have no experience of other flashes, so can we please not start the flash wars here?).
I used to filter (lane-split for the Yanks ) some 20-30 miles every day on the M25/A127 and when you are constantly switching between acceleration and deceleration like that the snatch gets REALLY irritating. On a normal ride it's barely noticeable but in traffic, especially with such a powerful bike, it's a PITA.
My carburettor fuelled GTR1000 doesn't have any snatch at all, despite having shaft drive.
I think part of the problem is that the frame/motor/ecu were designed for the ZZR1400 (ZX14) which is chain driven.
Is there anyone on here that has an FJR1300 or Honda ST1300 that can comment on how snatchy those injected shaft-drive bikes are.
I guess I'm asking if Shaft + Injection leads to Snatch
Hmm. Well, I can say I had a LOT of problems with cold stalling and ride performance when my valves started getting way out of spec.... to the point it was doing it not just when cold, either. Let's hope that isn't your issue, too. In which case I would ask how many miles does the bike have, and at what point was the valve lash last checked/adjusted?
Otherwise, what is your cold idle speed? You can adjust that up some to compensate and it might help some...
I think part of the problem is that the frame/motor/ecu were designed for the ZZR1400 (ZX14) which is chain driven.
Is there anyone on here that has an FJR1300 or Honda ST1300 that can comment on how snatchy those injected shaft-drive bikes are.
I guess I'm asking if Shaft + Injection leads to Snatch
It's done about 34, 000, only 3, 000 of which are mine. Seller said it had recently been done, but I was planning on checking in the warmer weather, when I would do 'everything'. Cold idle speed is slightly slower than when warm, plus as I mentioned, if you overclose the throttle, it stalls (doesn't do this when warm).