Excellent, thanks! I looked back over this thread before posting the request, but didn't see the link (though I thought I had earlier).
Looks like a bit much to try and tackle before ZG and Gumby get here in the morning for our ride tomorrow. That's if the kit even arrives today. Maybe a task for Sunday?
Weather is looking to be great for the Tygh Valley ride bro!
Get er done Rob, we'll see ya tomorrow, and we're bringing a 3rd black C14 with us as well...
Weather will be great (maybe a little chilly early). I probably should wait, so I don't have the bike all apart when you guys arrive. Maybe I'll just wash it or something...
BTW, OregonLan is also excited to go, so that will be another C14 in the mix.
I have a headlight modulator hooked up , would it work with a HID system?
Anyone know how much the startup current requirements are for this particular kit? Also how long it draws the startup cuurent?That sounds like a question for A&R http://www.aandrmotorsport.com/store/index.php?dispatch=pages.view&page_id=15
I already have a heavy guage wire running from my battery up to my aux lighter socket, which is also feeding my driving lights. I don't see a use case where it should be a problem if I use it for the HIDs too, but stiil, curious if someone knows.
That sounds like a question for A&R http://www.aandrmotorsport.com/store/index.php?dispatch=pages.view&page_id=15
Or we could wait for Brian to chime in, he seems to know a lot about lighting.
Since they provide this nice wire that's meant to go direct to the battery, I guess I'll just snake it through. Just trying to save a step on the install.
It is a nice wire/kit. And you don't have to remove the right fairings to install the kit, which is surprising (I removed the upper dash part, though) so it won't save much by just going to the battery.
Thanks! After I got in there, it took all of 15 seconds to snake that wire through, so definitely not worth the hassle to splice it into my existing wire.
In reality, you don't even need to pull the fairings. I'm almost done with the install, and didn't pull mine. Not sure about the 08/09 bikes though.
So you didn't have to remove the left ram air tube and the fairing?
One of the reasons I've not installed mine yet...to lazy to pull all that apart.
So you didn't have to remove the left ram air tube and the fairing? One of the reasons I've not installed mine yet...to lazy to pull all that apart.
I don't see how his post led you to that conclusion. Yes, you do have to remove the left ram air tube and fairing.
It wasn't as difficult as I expected it to be. But that is one very strange looking air box.
In reality, you don't even need to pull the fairings.Which led me to believe you could install in the same place as the A&R instruction without removing fairing and tube. I see now that C1x is going to place the igniters on other places.
Well, this led me to that...Which led me to believe you could install in the same place as the A&R instruction without removing fairing and tube. I see now that C1x is going to place the igniters on other places.
Ooops, I like, TOTALLY missed that part. Sorry.No problem. That 3m industrial Velcro glue is very strong, the 3m fasteners for my fast toll transponder are still stuck to the windshield on my truck going on 10 years, and that's some serious heat in the summer.
Yeah, it did seem odd to have to remove the air box, but I figured they knew best how to install it. Some of the cords are quite short and I decided to not second-guess their instructions.
However, I agree with C1x that the idea of mounting it from the top with just sticky doesn't instill long-term confidence about it staying there. Not sure about the mounting the other on the rubber firewall either. I guess time will tell.
No problem. That 3m industrial Velcro glue is very strong, the 3m fasteners for my fast toll transponder are still stuck to the windshield on my truck going on 10 years, and that's some serious heat in the summer.