all the worms are typical, brown, black, red, (sold under "monkey grip/Slime/other" generic company kits) and they all are coated in a compatible rubber, which does completely melt and bond them all, to the tire rubber, when the cement is applied LIBERALLY.. and I mean "slathered" on the rope...
my normal progression, is to first, attach my air pump, and begin airing up the flattened tire while I prepare the rope plug, with all the stuff sitting there on the ground on a rag... I fully coat the "rasp" with glue, and insert it, and push/pull 2 or 3 times, then do not withdraw it, while it's goobered with glue, it is sealing...then I squirt the cement on the worm, goober it up good, if it' a small nail hole (like a brad/or 8 penny nail) I make sure the "excess" inside the tire is "short", like 1/2" long, as a doubled up rope (bent in the middle) is a bit excessive for a "small" hole, or even a normal drywall screw... then I pull the rasp out, jam the plugger tool and plug in, twist and withdraw the tool.... it's sealed baby...
if the hole is larger, like a 16 penny spike, or something about 1/8' diameter(that pierced the tire), I'll do the doubled over full worm, with both ends ending up outside the tire tread..
like I noted, I ran a 1/8" drill bit into the tet tire, so a lot of rubber was actually removed, not just displaced like in a "puncture" scenario.
I've installed plugs in various car tires, at work and on the road for people, that jammed a dry plug in, and expected it to work... all I could say to them ALL, was "can't you read directions on the kit?
![Huh? ???](http://zggtr.org/Smileys/default/huh.gif)
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can't fix those people... they made velcro tennis shoes especially for them...
once you open the tube of glue, might a well toss it out on your way home, when you buy replacement plugs and a fresh tube of glue, and never open them till needed.. I buy Monkey Grip tire cement in 6 oz cans, and keep them sealed.