Do any members here do Valve Checks for $$$

[martin_14]

got my first valve job performed at around 25000 miles. 7 out of 16 were out of spec. I had it done again at 55000 miles. 5 were out of spec. The second time I had tons of plastic out due to a small accident, so it didn't cost much.
For reference, my usual oil and filter plus little things sort of workshop visit costs around 170 EUR (200 USD). The first valve check took the bill to 550 EUR (600 USD) and the third one costed me just 350 EUR (380 USD).

[maxtog]

It may be just a coincident that 25,000km =15,500 miles.  Could be kawi did not get the units right between USA (miles) and the rest of the world(km).

I could certainly believe that, but only for the first time around (2008).  I can't believe it would remain documented wrong through 9 years of updates, revisions, and questions.  Doesn't seem at all plausible.

Of course, all this talk about the non-USA/CDN spec and I don't know if maybe it WAS corrected and yet we have been repeating the initial information over and over for years.  We need someone with a > 2010 non-North American Concours to check their docs and see if it really says the same thing.

[2talltim]

Did mine at 31,000 did it myself, pain in the ass very time intensive but not hard by any means. Six of my EX were on the edge of being tight out of spec and 2 were just a hair tight out. All the IN were with in spec but 2 were on the tight side. I already had a shim set and just needed to buy a new valve cover gasket because mine was split.

[elp_jc]

I read once dealers b*tched about 26K-mile valve adjustment specs (Yamaha too), due to lack of service revenue. Due to most results posted here after a 25K or so mile interval, that seems to be the real reason to me .

[dailybibliotaph]

For all the guys that's done the work themselves, bravo! Which manual did you use to do it? And did the manual list the exact tools required?

[Deziner]

Factory service manual. You need to own one, they can be priceless.

Tools are pretty self explanatory. Then again, what seems very ordinary to some are speciality tools to others. A good set of hand tools goes a long way. Good feeler gauges too. Oh, Fred Harmon's dvds are also a good investment.

[VirginiaJim]

+1

[dailybibliotaph]

Factory service manual. You need to own one, they can be priceless.

Tools are pretty self explanatory. Then again, what seems very ordinary to some are speciality tools to others. A good set of hand tools goes a long way. Good feeler gauges too. Oh, Fred Harmon's dvds are also a good investment.

Thanks. I'm definitely getting them all. Worth while investments. 

[Texas]

My 2009 has 29,400 miles on it and I've never had the valves adjusted.  It runs as perfect as the day I first got it and I bought it new.  I'm reluctant to let a dealer touch it because I wonder if they truly know what they're doing.  Maybe I'm just paranoid or maybe it's because they once bent my rear wheel on a routine tire change.  I'm guessing it's like anything else in that some dealers have mechanics that know what they're doing and others maybe not.  Anyone here have higher mileage on their C14 that have never had the valves adjusted?  Is there some type of risk by not getting them adjusted?

[maxtog]

My 2009 has 29,400 miles on it and I've never had the valves adjusted.  It runs as perfect as the day I first got it and I bought it new.  I'm reluctant to let a dealer touch it because I wonder if they truly know what they're doing.  Maybe I'm just paranoid or maybe it's because they once bent my rear wheel on a routine tire change.  I'm guessing it's like anything else in that some dealers have mechanics that know what they're doing and others maybe not.

Many of us know exactly how you feel

Is there some type of risk by not getting them adjusted?

Yes.  It can destroy the head (the valves and/or the seats).

[datsaxman@hotmail.com]

Lots of rumours and fairy tales to be had!

Ex-dealer mechanic, so I have always done all of my own work. 

Mine had been adjusted (or so I am told) at about 50,000 miles.  I got it at 53,000 12/2013.  Adjusted it at 71,000 myself.  Six of eight exhausts were tight.  All got adjusted to maximum clearance then.  Intakes were all OK, so that cam stayed in.

Just did it for the second time last week. 126,700 miles.  Again with the exhausts, six were tight.  Several of the intakes had opened up a little, NONE had gotten tighter, and all were easily in spec.
Not what I expected...but I measured twice to be certain.  Again I left the intake cam in. 

Do what you want, but adjustments do become essential after a while.  I would do the first at 25,000 miles, and then every 50,000.  They seem to be quite stable.  I do not rev the thing all that much, and yes, that is likely to matter. 

datsaxman

[martin_14]

 

[PlaynInPeoria]

I am lazy and not poor, so I paid to have mine checked at 36k.   I was told they were ok.  I also had the coolant and plugs changed.  The cost was $745, which was not easy to swallow, but I feel better.  They also swapped the rear shock under warranty, the preload adjuster had to be adjusted with a pair of channel locks, and that was after the passenger footpeg was removed to allow access.  BTW, my bike sees redline frequently.

A friend did his, he's a pretty aggressive rider also and also an exceptionally anal engineer, his 2011 had maybe 28k?  He loves a complicated project. He had 1 out of spec and 1 close that he chose to skip but when the last valve was off, he ended up setting them both.

[Daytona_Mike]

I am lazy and not poor, so I paid to have mine checked at 36k.   I was told they were ok.  I also had the coolant and plugs changed.  The cost was $745, which was not easy to swallow, but I feel better.  They also swapped the rear shock under warranty, the preload adjuster had to be adjusted with a pair of channel locks, and that was after the passenger footpeg was removed to allow access.  BTW, my bike sees redline frequently.

A friend did his, he's a pretty aggressive rider also and also an exceptionally anal engineer, his 2011 had maybe 28k?  He loves a complicated project. He had 1 out of spec and 1 close that he chose to skip but when the last valve was off, he ended up setting them both.

So did you get a shim map? At 36k they should have all been on the tight side right on the edge of with in spec or as the dealer would say they are 'OK'.. They should have moved all of them to the max spec.
Seems a shame to pay all that money to just 'look' at it.  Reminds me of that TV commercial with the Dental Monitor.  Are you going to fix the cavity?
Nope, I am just a monitor. I only tell you that  have a cavity. I dont fix it.

Word of advice: Do not  pay to have the valves checked or 'looked at'. Only pay to have them all moved to the max spec and make sure you get a shim map done.

[maxtog]

Word of advice: Do not  pay to have the valves checked or 'looked at'. Only pay to have them all moved to the max spec and make sure you get a shim map done.

That is good advice

[paulfromva]

I'm new here but I've always done my own valves on bikes I've owned and plan to do them on the C14 as well. That said I have not gotten the maintenance manual yet so I don't know how involved it is yet. Guess I'll just ride the other bike for as long as required.

[moto madness]

Hi Group!
So I take my Connie to my Kawasaki shop today as I bought a new HID headlight kit and this past weekend see it's a pain as so much skins have to be removed to get to the wire connectors.  Not changing subject, keep reading.  So although I do must electronics myself, I concede to have them installed at my dealer for a 1 to 2 hr labor rate.

So during the headlight install estimate, they tell me since I'm now at 27k miles and I need to have the 27k service which includes the valves adjusted among other things and the total is "only" $1080.00. He says that's a deal as since they need to take some of the side skin off anyway, he'll take off 1 hr of labor as a discount.  This is an authorized Kawa dealer with bike service in So Cal area. 

The engine sounds terrific and can't see the reason to break open the engine needlessly.  Kind of like cracking an egg shell and expecting to put it back perfectly to factory.  I get the fluids and air filters changed, but opening up the engine for a valve check? really?

Any comments guys? 

[maxtog]

A valve check requires considerable disassembly and the removing the valve cover.  27K is past the recommended time.  If my bike were at 27K and was already out of service and already at a shop and they were already going to take off stuff and then discount it further.... I would have it checked/adjusted.  $1080 sounds steep, though.  But for a reputable shop and including other stuff, it might be the going price.

[jjnorc]

I'm in the middle of my first valve job on my 2009 with 29k miles.

On the intake side all were between .11 and .08 which is .01 to .04mm on the tight side of the minimum clearance.
Exhaust side was also tight across the board but not as much except for one which was .05 tight.

I was able to swap shims around so that I only need to buy 5 new ones.

It is a big job but I would never have a dealer do it. I just don't trust them.

[MAN OF BLUES]

when you convert this all to "thousandth of an inch" , and do it to four decimal places. it makes complete, and accurate figures.
my crappy mics from McMaster Carr, measure to much closer than a 1/1000"  note $ decimal

I'm in the middle of my first valve job on my 2009 with 29k miles.

On the intake side all were between .11 and .08 which is .01 to .04mm on the tight side of the minimum clearance.
Exhaust side was also tight across the board but not as much except for one which was .05 tight.

I was able to swap shims around so that I only need to buy 5 new ones.

It is a big job but I would never have a dealer do it. I just don't trust them.

places

now time or you to measure yhe inside dimension to cam face,on each bucket// I been spouting this for years, swapping buckets will save $$$ on shim needs/