Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: martin_14 on August 25, 2011, 03:32:18 AM
-
many times it has been asked about the abrupt on-off throttle response from this bike, and among other solutions (including throttle tamer and such) it is always suggested that you should tighten the play on the gas cable. Well, to you all smart @sses out there, let me tell you something: you're right!!! I have been experiencing this since day one and I adjusted my right wrist accordingly and, for the most part, I've been able to keep it down, but it never stopped bothering me, and during the last 3 or 4 thousand km it got a bit worse, maybe because of the high temperatures in which I've been riding (100°F). Last week I did the 30.000 km service and the mechanic at my dealer (not a "stealer", because they are great: listen to me, charge me fairly and work professionally) specifically told me that it was a bit loose and adjusted it. Now it's not perfect, but it is much better.
There. 8)
-
With that much power on tap it does seem like a light switch sometimes. :o
For me smoothness just came with experience riding the bike.
-
Each bike I have owned were different in throttle and clutch response, you just have to get used to them,, making adjustments helps, but each one is different.
-
Coming from a Carb bike to an FI, the change in jerkiness is pronounced.
So much so that sometimes I am loathe to open the throttle whilst cornering in the wet.
Since I've had the PR3s my confidence in the wet has grown and I have managed mostly smooth off-on throttle transitions.
However, I will have a look at the throttle cable adjustments tomorrow as it can still be smoother.
The biggest problem with FI motors is that with zero throttle, you get zero fuel injected.
With carbs there is always some fuel going through.
So the transition from no fuel to some fuel is a bit of a jolt.
-
A Throttle Tamer will fix it. I put one on my bike before pulling the flies and it made the throttle transition very nice.
-
I'd like to see some of you with the "quarter-turn" throttle mods we put on our ZX14 beasts ;)
-
A Throttle Tamer will fix it. I put one on my bike before pulling the flies and it made the throttle transition very nice.
+1 on the Throttle Tamer. Not only does it help with throttle snatch but it's action is smoother becasue it has self-lubricating Delrin bushings inside.
See the pic below, the stocker is on the left.
-
G2 Tamer Tube by G2 Ergonomics (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6r6W62-Ugts#ws)
-
Martin, I have to agree with you. Mine has also been of 'light switch' quality since day one. This morning was the 4th time I've adjusted it (18,600 miles), because it just seems to keep getting loose.
I've always tried to follow the FSM instructions to the letter, but those instructions don't really provide any confidence level that it's been done with the results they expect.
This morning, I just said screw it, and adjusted ALL the play out of the throttle, and the off to on transition is better than it's ever been. It didn't affect the idle, so I'll just leave it there.
There's still a huge jolt in second gear under some conditions, but nothing like it was. So far, 1st gear is where I see the most improvement.
Of course the real test will be down hill through some 10MPH switchbacks. I'll let you know after I try some of those.
-
Coming from a Carb bike to an FI, the change in jerkiness is pronounced.
+1 I had a very hard time adjusting, coming from a carb ZRX to the Concours. (Who am I kidding, I still haven't adjusted yet). I adjusted the play and it helped some, but it is still very different from what I am used to. At lower RPM's ( < 3k) it isn't an issue... but at higher RPM's... whoa.
-
+1 on the Throttle Tamer. Not only does it help with throttle snatch but it's action is smoother becasue it has self-lubricating Delrin bushings inside.
See the pic below, the stocker is on the left.
How difficult to install?
-
In normal to moderate riding I feel like I have a handle on throttle smoothness, I especially feel comfortable with throttle roll-ons coming out of medium to broad sweepers.
However, I tried my first drag race last week with a Triumph Speed Triple. The revs built so fast I was late on the shift and hit the rev limiter in four gears. (Still managed to stay with the Speed Triple -- which is a marvelous scooter, BTW.)
-
How difficult to install?
Easy - just a few minutes. Same as removing and reinstalling the stock throttle.
-
How difficult to install?
Very easy. The hardest part is taking the grip off, and that's not hard at all. A bonus is while you have it all apart you can go ahead and lube your throttle cable.
-
Has anyone put a Throttle Tamer on a 2010+ bike? Just curious what the case may be with the heated grips? I seem to recall reding somewhere that this may be an issue?
:popcorn:
-
Has anyone put a Throttle Tamer on a 2010+ bike? Just curious what the case may be with the heated grips? I seem to recall reding somewhere that this may be an issue?
:popcorn:
I bought one, but haven't tried to install it yet. I was wondering what the difference in ramp angle is, and if you could just shave down the cable guide slot to improve the stock one. One of these days I'll get time to look at it all... ::)
-
and if you could just shave down the cable guide slot to improve the stock one.
I have a 2010 with heated grips. I bought a Throttle Tamer but it was the wrong model - got confused with model numbers. Anyway, I examined the TT and thought to myself I can file a groove that would do the job just about as good as the TT. So I went to hardware store and found the right file and filed away. Jerkiness is mostly gone. Much, much better that stock!!!
I have no idea how to get the heated grips off the 2010 model. All suggestions posted on any 1400GTR forum must be for the unheated grips cause the instructions don't work for me.
-
G2 Tamer Tube by G2 Ergonomics (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6r6W62-Ugts#ws)
Mmmmm.... throttle snatch! :P
-
I have a 2010 with heated grips. I bought a Throttle Tamer but it was the wrong model - got confused with model numbers. Anyway, I examined the TT and thought to myself I can file a groove that would do the job just about as good as the TT. So I went to hardware store and found the right file and filed away. Jerkiness is mostly gone. Much, much better that stock!!!
I have no idea how to get the heated grips off the 2010 model. All suggestions posted on any 1400GTR forum must be for the unheated grips cause the instructions don't work for me.
You should post pictures and a how-to and such :)
-
many times it has been asked about the abrupt on-off throttle response from this bike, and among other solutions (including throttle tamer and such) it is always suggested that you should tighten the play on the gas cable. Well, to you all smart @sses out there, let me tell you something: you're right!!! I have been experiencing this since day one and I adjusted my right wrist accordingly and, for the most part, I've been able to keep it down, but it never stopped bothering me, and during the last 3 or 4 thousand km it got a bit worse, maybe because of the high temperatures in which I've been riding (100°F). Last week I did the 30.000 km service and the mechanic at my dealer (not a "stealer", because they are great: listen to me, charge me fairly and work professionally) specifically told me that it was a bit loose and adjusted it. Now it's not perfect, but it is much better.
There. 8)
Mounted the Throttle tamer and adjusted the play out of the throttle. It helped some. Recently I have been practicing throttling on very lightly before entering the corners and modulating my speed with breaking. This allows me to have the throttle open past the on/off stage and allows me to progress smoothly throttling out of the corner without the initial on/off jerking.
Anyone else out there tried this??
-
G2 Throttle Tamer = best money spent on bike yet.
-
I have it on my 2010, The heated grips are NOT a problem as long as you pay attention to the orientation of the wire for the heat so it doesn't bind...(Just make sure it's in the same position when you put the grips back on..) I used a blowgun to get the stock grips off the original tube and onto the tamer, Literally a 15 minute install
-
Mmmmm.... throttle snatch! :P
Down boy!
-
The biggest problem with FI motors is that with zero throttle, you get zero fuel injected.
With carbs there is always some fuel going through.
So the transition from no fuel to some fuel is a bit of a jolt.
I always thought that even at idle the fuel injectors were still injecting fuel into the motor to keep it running. Guess you learn something new everyday. :-[
-
You could remove a little material from the opening drum surface on the original throttle tube but for it to be correct, that same amount of material should be added to the return side of the drum to maintain even cable slack as the throttle is opened. Also I believe a throttle tamer not only initially opens the throttle slower but actually opens the throttle faster as throttle travel approaches full throttle (WOT). That way it alters the way the throttle is opened while keeping the total throttle travel the same as stock.
Brian
I bought one, but haven't tried to install it yet. I was wondering what the difference in ramp angle is, and if you could just shave down the cable guide slot to improve the stock one. One of these days I'll get time to look at it all... ::)
-
I always thought that even at idle the fuel injectors were still injecting fuel into the motor to keep it running. Guess you learn something new everyday. :-[
So where's the fuel coming from at idle?
-
I always thought that even at idle the fuel injectors were still injecting fuel into the motor to keep it running. Guess you learn something new everyday. :-[
That was bad info.
As long as the engine is running, the injectors are firing and providing fuel. No fuel = no engine turning.
-
You could remove a little material from the opening drum surface on the original throttle tube but for it to be correct, that same amount of material should be added to the return side of the drum to maintain even cable slack as the throttle is opened. Also I believe a throttle tamer not only initially opens the throttle slower but actually opens the throttle faster as throttle travel approaches full throttle (WOT). That way it alters the way the throttle is opened while keeping the total throttle travel the same as stock.
Brian
That is an interesting thought, but I think unnecessary. I suspect the amount of slack introduced to the decelerator cable by a slight change in initial ramp angle of the accelerator cable would not be enough to warrant adding any material to the guide slot of the decelerator cable.
It probably would affect how the throttle cable adjustment procedure was done though, meaning you would need to leave a little slack in the decelerator cable when fully closed, as the two cables would be fighting each other once the throttle was opened past the point that was modified.
Something to think about I guess. ;)
As for the change in ramp rate at later throttle opening, I'll have to check into that too. I don't mind the stock opening rate, just the light switch response from full closed to when you first crack the throttle. To be honest, I still think it's a miss-adjustment with the TPS, which may be cured by a very attentive TB sync.
-
Has anyone with a Electronic cruise control removed all or almost all of the play? I noticed the play (slop) when I installed my CC but I didn't adjust it thinking that the Rostra would need the slop so it wasn't fighting my hand pressure when making throttle adjustments.
-
Has anyone with a Electronic cruise control removed all or almost all of the play? I noticed the play (slop) when I installed my CC but I didn't adjust it thinking that the Rostra would need the slop so it wasn't fighting my hand pressure when making throttle adjustments.
Generally, a vacuum based cruise control will only "pull" on the throttle to open it and gain more speed, or just release the pull to decelerate. It cannot actively "close" the throttle like you can with your hand (because of the dual cables- open and close). So the CC would never be fighting you, unless you tried to CLOSE the throttle while it was activated. And you should never do that (just use the brakes and the brake sensor will cut it off)! If you are trying to open the throttle more than the set point, the CC will just go slack trying to reduce the speed... at some point it should notice it is not effective and just shut itself off (typically based on RPM sensor).
-
By fighting me I was referring to just my grasp on the grip, not me trying to change the speed. I'm not saying I'm grabbing it in panic vise grip mode all the time. I try to ride relaxed but my grip does vary and the secondary reason I wanted a cruise control is so I could set it and forget it and just concentrate on what the cagers, truckers, tire carcasses, rolled up rugs are doing in my intended path. Before I was spending way to much of my time checking my speed and adjusting it back down and rarely back up. If I'm inadvertently holding open the throttle when the CC is backing off (I'm speeding once again) then I'm not getting what I want. I'm not trying to get this thread off of throttle jerkiness, I was just curious if those with an electronic CC leave the cables a little loose or keep 'em tight. I have a feeling that this is another case where I won't be able to have my cake and eat it too. I'll probably have to just grip the bar end on the super slabs.
-
I have an electronic CC and I have my free play adjusted per the manual (3mm I think) works fine...
-
Add me to the list recommending the Throttle Tamer. The install was 10 minutes. The most hassle was getting the grip off/on. I use compressed air and it still required a bit of wrestling. I can't imagine how it can be done otherwise.
I rode with it yesterday and noticed a big improvement. I purposely opened and closed the throttle several times in a ham fisted way in turns. I am very please with the results.
Mark
-
Add me to the list recommending the Throttle Tamer. The install was 10 minutes. The most hassle was getting the grip off/on. I use compressed air and it still required a bit of wrestling. I can't imagine how it can be done otherwise.......
can of Gumout, slip the red snooter tube under the grip at the end, spritz, twist and pull....instant off.
same for replacing, spritz till wet, slip it on......wait 10 minutes and it's dry....
never use WD40.....for removal, or as many people claim, hairspray as an install assist/glue, as it will slip when it gets wet.
-
can of Gumout, slip the red snooter tube under the grip at the end, spritz, twist and pull....instant off.
same for replacing, spritz till wet, slip it on......wait 10 minutes and it's dry....
never use WD40.....for removal, or as many people claim, hairspray as an install assist/glue, as it will slip when it gets wet.
Thanks for the Gumout tip. I will give that a try the next time. I have used hairspray on grips for mountain bikes. It's very easy to install. I have had mixed results on removal.
Mark