Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: lather on July 15, 2011, 06:38:03 PM
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OK, cam chain is unbunched and valve cover, sticky coils and PAIR valve re-installed (but blocked off) so now time to move on to the TB sync. I notice that Video Fred Harmon removed the fuel tank and accessed the #2 vacuum plug through the left throttle body hatch. I see no mention of this methodology on the FSM! After extensive flash light aided peering it looks like Fred's way is the only way. Has anyone been able to connect a line to the #2 without removing the fuel tank?
What have I gotten myself into :'(
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the trick is to install hoses routed out to the left side of the frame prior to re-installing the valve cover and all the other stuff....bit late now....
with the hoses routed out to the left, numbered, plugged and held in a spark plug loom clip, it makes it easy for the future use....
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Yeah but like Rich said, it really helps to have the valve cover off to get to that port without removing the fuel tank. If the valve cover is already back in place you will have to decide if you want to remove it again or pull the tank. Removing the tank is really not hard nor does it take long to do and it is only difficult to handle if it is full or nearly so.
And again, as Rich said, put vacuum tubing on each T. B. port, route them all to the left and be done with it for all time. Cap the lines and either route them to someplace like under the frame support rail or capture the ends in a tie- wrap or similar.
The T.B. synch will be far easier than the valve adjust was do don't worry, you are on the down hill side of the trip.
Brian
OK, cam chain is unbunched and valve cover, sticky coils and PAIR valve re-installed (but blocked off) so now time to move on to the TB sync. I notice that Video Fred Harmon removed the fuel tank and accessed the #2 vacuum plug through the left throttle body hatch. I see no mention of this methodology on the FSM! After extensive flash light aided peering it looks like Fred's way is the only way. Has anyone been able to connect a line to the #2 without removing the fuel tank?
What have I gotten myself into :'(
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Yeah but like Rich said, it really helps to have the valve cover off to get to that port without removing the fuel tank. If the valve cover is already back in place you will have to decide if you want to remove it again or pull the tank. Removing the tank is really not hard nor does it take long to do and it is only difficult to handle if it is full or nearly so.
And again, as Rich said, put vacuum tubing on each T. B. port, route them all to the left and be done with it for all time. Cap the lines and either route them to someplace like under the frame support rail or capture the ends in a tie- wrap or similar.
The T.B. synch will be far easier than the valve adjust was do don't worry, you are on the down hill side of the trip.
Brian
I wish :'( see my next topic...
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Well, technically the throttle body synch. went fine, it is the starting of the bike you are having trouble with.... ;)
Brian
I wish :'( see my next topic...
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Well, technically the throttle body synch. went fine, it is the starting of the bike you are having trouble with.... ;)
Brian
I haven't started the sync yet!
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Oh my....
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OK, cam chain .................
What have I gotten myself into :'(
I did it Fred'd way. And like Fred I had to redo it because access to the screw on the hose clamp was the hardest part. Wait until you have to tighten that hose clamp on the rubber funnel. :yikes:
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How do we know when the throttlebodies need syncing? Mine is at 39,000 miles. Is this one of those deals such as the plugs....book says do it and its a joke?
Mine ran strong in the desert as an ADV bike too. 108 degrees and at speeds of "idling". Maybe mine don't need syncing? This was last week:
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/X%20country%20trippin/20110713-DSC_1832.jpg)
It also ran strong at 12,000 feet in the sky. This was up there a week and a half ago:
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/X%20country%20trippin/20110706-DSC_1348.jpg)
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Mine has a bit of a rough idle. I have had it die on me a few during low speed manouvers, once causing me to drop the bike. If I didn't have any issues I defintely would not try this.
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Nice pics. Is that Independence Pass or Trail Ridge Road?
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I did it Fred'd way. And like Fred I had to redo it because access to the screw on the hose clamp was the hardest part. Wait until you have to tighten that hose clamp on the rubber funnel. :yikes:
Thanks for the heads ups Joseph!
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I was able to install the hoses from the left side without removing the tank or the valve cover. I used extra long needlenose pliers from harbor freight
Bill
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Do the vacuum lines need to be identical length and ID?
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Nope, it does not matter.
Brian
Do the vacuum lines need to be identical length and ID?
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Great, thanks.
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This is not going as smoothly as I had hoped ::)
I hooked up my Motion Pro ProSync syncronization tool to calibrate it, carefully following the instructions. I immediately noticed the adjustment screws would not turn smoothly at all. When I fired up the engine and attemped to calibrate I got these gaps.
(http://www.lamsta.com/gallery/prosync01.jpg)
After following the instructions for getting rid of the gaps I have many more gaps.
(http://www.lamsta.com/gallery/prosync02.jpg)
I think this tool is junk. I will see if I can get a better one quickly. Any suggestions? I recall someone else used a Carb Tune.
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This is not going as smoothly as I had hoped ::)
I hooked up my Motion Pro ProSync syncronization tool to calibrate it, carefully following the instructions. I immediately noticed the adjustment screws would not turn smoothly at all. When I fired up the engine and attemped to calibrate I got these gaps.
(http://www.lamsta.com\gallery\prosync01.jpg)
After following the instructions for getting rid of the gaps I have many more gaps.
(http://www.lamsta.com\gallery\prosync02.jpg)
I think this tool is junk. I will see if I can get a better one quickly. Any suggestions? I recall someone else used a Carb Tune.
Yikes! :yikes:
I couldn't see the pictures at first, but after switching the backslashes to forward slashes in the URLs, I now see what you're talking about.
Did you try swinging it with the bottom at the outside of the arc? No idea how to help here, but maybe/possibly/probably couldn't hurt to try. ???
Their instructions say to "shake like a thermometer", but I think "shake" is the wrong word. More like flick your wrist...
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I'll try the swing technique but I am doubtful.
I went ahead and connected a hose to the #2 TB, it was easy. It was harder to get the boot and clamp back on. Tightening the clamp was no problem. Next I played with a mirror and flasglight. I can get a good look at the adjustment screw but need another hand to operate the 90% screwdriver! I will need to get a skinnier flashlight and tape it in place. Looks like these delays might mess up my end-of-July trip to Colorado. I am not really that bummed because I can't really afford to go anyway. I have already paid for IndyGP tickets and I have a feeling that trip will not be cheap.
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They say it's filled with propylene glycol, which should allow the air to slip by with gentle coaxing. Possibly gentle tapping. Anything like shaking would make the problem worse.
My guess is it takes a gentle hand to get rid of the air pockets.
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did ya ever see me post my preferance for synch tools..?
google the TwinMax....
:hitfan:
and sell that p.o.s on ebay.
just saying..... 8)
send me your adress, and I'll send you mine to use.....and if you don't send it back, I'll hunt you down....
but, when you use it, and see how it works, you have to spread the word....
open deal...
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I cannot comment on the quality of the tool but the easiest way I know of to get rid of the voids (really air bubbles) in tubing is to blow <gently> into each tube until all the fluid is forced to the bottom reservoir. When you stop blowing and the fluid rises again, it will do so in a solid 'bar' and without any air bubbles. Do one tube at a time. It should only take about 5 seconds each tube.
This same method works for mercury manometers also and they too tend to get air bubbles caught in them. And it is very safe as there is no possibility of ingesting any mercury, or even the anti- freeze in your gauge.
I cannot believe Haroldo has not been by this thread yet. I sure hope he is reading it though.... ;D
Brian
This is not going as smoothly as I had hoped ::)
I hooked up my Motion Pro ProSync syncronization tool to calibrate it, carefully following the instructions. I immediately noticed the adjustment screws would not turn smoothly at all. When I fired up the engine and attemped to calibrate I got these gaps.
<snip>
After following the instructions for getting rid of the gaps I have many more gaps.
<snip>
I think this tool is junk. I will see if I can get a better one quickly. Any suggestions? I recall someone else used a Carb Tune.
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did ya ever see me post my preferance for synch tools..?
google the TwinMax....
:hitfan:
and sell that p.o.s on ebay.
just saying..... 8)
send me your adress, and I'll send you mine to use.....and if you don't send it back, I'll hunt you down....
but, when you use it, and see how it works, you have to spread the word....
open deal...
Thanks for the kind offer MOB. I would like to take you up but I am unclear how to use it for theC14 since the first step in the manual calls for comparing all 4 cylindars:
"If any vacuum is not within specifications, first synchronize
the balance of the left (#1, #2 throttle valves) and
right (#3, #4 throttle valves) assemblies.
Example:
#1: 240 mmHg
#2: 250 mmHg
#3: 230 mmHg
#4: 240 mmHg •With the engine at the correct idle speed, equalize higher
vacuum of #1 or #2 (for example 250 mmHg) to higher
vacuum of #3 or #4 (for example 240 mmHg) by turning
the center adjusting screw [A]."
How would you do this with the Twin Max?
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I cannot comment on the quality of the tool but the easiest way I know of to get rid of the voids (really air bubbles) in tubing is to blow <gently> into each tube until all the fluid is forced to the bottom reservoir. When you stop blowing and the fluid rises again, it will do so in a solid 'bar' and without any air bubbles. Do one tube at a time. It should only take about 5 seconds each tube.
This same method works for mercury manometers also and they too tend to get air bubbles caught in them. And it is very safe as there is no possibility of ingesting any mercury, or even the anti- freeze in your gauge.
I cannot believe Haroldo has not been by this thread yet. I sure hope he is reading it though.... ;D
Brian
I have tried tapping, swinging and obscene verbal threats with NO result. Gentle blowing does slowly give slight improvement but its not gonna work in my lifetime.
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My Motion Pro sync tool. I had the same problem, and bought the small refill kit for about $5-6. It is easy enough to refill when you follow the directions.
Knowing it is just anti-freeze would have been a bit cheaper, but not much. You still need a small dropper to fill the resevoirs.
I do not believe that you will be able to shake, blow or suck the air bubbles out without disassembly. If you are careful, you may be able to back out the adjustment screws completely, gently pressurize the lines (ie blow) to move all the fluid to the resevoirs, level the resevoirs out with a few drops of anti-freeze, and reassemble. Try to keep the fluid out of the threads. Then sync the tool with the 4 lines T'eed up to a single vacuum source by adjusting the screws. The closer to the exact same volume of fluid in each resevoir, the wider the range of accuracy will be on the gauge.
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My Motion Pro sync tool. I had the same problem, and bought the small refill kit for about $5-6. It is easy enough to refill when you follow the directions.
Knowing it is just anti-freeze would have been a bit cheaper, but not much. You still need a small dropper to fill the resevoirs.
I do not believe that you will be able to shake, blow or suck the air bubbles out without disassembly. If you are careful, you may be able to back out the adjustment screws completely, gently pressurize the lines (ie blow) to move all the fluid to the resevoirs, level the resevoirs out with a few drops of anti-freeze, and reassemble. Try to keep the fluid out of the threads. Then sync the tool with the 4 lines T'eed up to a single vacuum source by adjusting the screws. The closer to the exact same volume of fluid in each resevoir, the wider the range of accuracy will be on the gauge.
I tried blowing again after removing the restrictors. with about 20 minutes alternately blowing and sucking I managed to get the fluid back into the resorvoirs. I then proceeded to calibrate again after replacing the restrictors. This time I was able to calibrate succesfully with the engine idling although to get the colums level I ended up with the fluid near the top. And when I turned off the engine the fluid freaked out and the gaps were back worse than ever. I am giving up on the Motion Pro.
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More...
It looks like the hardest part of TB sync will be adjusting the center adjusting screw. So even tho I don't yet have a working manometer I tried to see if I could do it. Massively troublesome to get bothe the mirror and flashlight bith secured in a position I could see the screw and still have room for the 90o screwdriver. But I finally did it, turning the screw just enough to confirm the driver blade was seated. Guess what. The engine is now idling much smoother than before!
I am tempted to quit while I'm ahead.
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I have never see that Motion Pro tool but I wonder how they could have missed so badly on physics? The four screws under the tubes look ominous though- there should be nothing to adjust. I am still using a pair of mercury sticks (manometers) and to be honest this thread is not making me want to move away from them anytime soon.
Brian
I tried blowing again after removing the restrictors. with about 20 minutes alternately blowing and sucking I managed to get the fluid back into the resorvoirs. I then proceeded to calibrate again after replacing the restrictors. This time I was able to calibrate succesfully with the engine idling although to get the colums level I ended up with the fluid near the top. And when I turned off the engine the fluid freaked out and the gaps were back worse than ever. I am giving up on the Motion Pro.
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It looks like you can buy mercury based carb. manometers still- you have to be careful with them and not spill the mercury, and especially don't suck it into the engine with violent throttle movements, but they work extremely well and there is no frustration factor. Just a thought.
Brian
More...
It looks like the hardest part of TB sync will be adjusting the center adjusting screw. So even tho I don't yet have a working manometer I tried to see if I could do it. Massively troublesome to get bothe the mirror and flashlight bith secured in a position I could see the screw and still have room for the 90o screwdriver. But I finally did it, turning the screw just enough to confirm the driver blade was seated. Guess what. The engine is now idling much smoother than before!
I am tempted to quit while I'm ahead.
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Since I have three multicylindar bikes I might as well invest in a tool I will be happy with.
Looks like the Carbtune and TwinMax are both good (non fluid, hard to F' up) options although I don't fully understand how the Twin Max works and especially how it will get the job done on the C14 with the center adjusting procedure as spelled out in the manual.
As for the motion pro tool, when I turn the calibrating screws they feel very unsmooth. I suspect poor workmanship.
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Just my opinion but.... I would not buy or use any tool with fewer readouts than the number of cylinders that the bike has. I synch. six cylinder engines with two separate four tube manometers side by side. As these work on physics rather than calibration or adjustment, as long as they are at the same vertical height, all tubes will read correctly even across two manometers. Four cylinder vacuum gauges are easy enough to get that I would not consider a twin gauge and jumping between two cylinders with each gauge. When you make an adjustment on one T.B. or the balance screw between T.B. #'s 2 and 3, ALL the T.B. vacuum levels will change. It is really pretty important to watch all cylinders at the same time. For example, say #3 is high: as you are adjusting that one down, all the others will rise in vacuum and not necessarily evenly either. So if you cannot watch the other three, you would not know which one is highest and lowest.
I believe the carbtune tool uses sticks of metal (a hard metal, not liquid mercury) that are drawn up in the tubes by venture vacuum. As long as the metal sticks and the tubes are all made to very close tolerances, that tool should work fine. It would be easy enough to connect all four tubes to one vacuum line and check the calibration although there really is not any adjustment.
Mercury manometers have been around forever because they work so well. And they work on pure physics without any need or even the ability to calibrate them. As long as there is gravity on Earth, mercury manometers are self calibrating and extremely accurate. Yes mercury is toxic but only if it 'gets away'; if the manometers are handled <reasonably> carefully the mercury will not spill. We all handle a lot of gasoline pretty freely without any repercussions as long as we are reasonably careful with the stuff. I understand the move away from mercury balance sticks and really it is a good idea but still the original mercury types work very well although they do demand more care than a similar device carrying something like anti- freeze (ethyl glycol) or colored alcohol.
Even four vacuum gauges in a row will work well as long as they all calibrate the same. The problem with this is that very inexpensive gauges often do not read the same and there is no way to correct for this.
Brian
Since I have three multicylindar bikes I might as well invest in a tool I will be happy with.
Looks like the Carbtune and TwinMax are both good (non fluid, hard to F' up) options although I don't fully understand how the Twin Max works and especially how it will get the job done on the C14 with the center adjusting procedure as spelled out in the manual.
As for the motion pro tool, when I turn the calibrating screws they feel very unsmooth. I suspect poor workmanship.
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Cartoon tool? ;) ;D
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Speelcheckas! Spelled correctly but choose the wrong word. That is just one of the many reasons computers will never, ever catch on.
Brian
Cartoon tool? ;) ;D
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So how did this turn out? Did you finish? Is the bike back together? ????
Brian
<snip>
What have I gotten myself into :'(
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How do we know when the throttlebodies need syncing? Mine is at 39,000 miles. Is this one of those deals such as the plugs....book says do it and its a joke?
Mine ran strong in the desert as an ADV bike too. 108 degrees and at speeds of "idling". Maybe mine don't need syncing? This was last week:
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/X%20country%20trippin/20110713-DSC_1832.jpg)
It also ran strong at 12,000 feet in the sky. This was up there a week and a half ago:
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/X%20country%20trippin/20110706-DSC_1348.jpg)
Mine has a bit of a rough idle. I have had it die on me a few during low speed manouvers, once causing me to drop the bike. If I didn't have any issues I defintely would not try this.
Thanks for the explanation... I was really wondering because i didn't do mine at the 25,000 valave adjustment either!
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So how did this turn out? Did you finish? Is the bike back together? ????
Brian
THE SYNC is on hold. I ordered a Morgan Carbtune. I hope it will arrive in about a week! Today I picked up a nice big inspection mirror which should help. I may have figured out the main problem with the Motion Pro tool but I will wait on the Morgan since I have spent the $. Even if I can get the Motion Pro to work I would not trust its accuracy.
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Wild Bill,
Besides removing the left side panel, did you have to remove anything else? What did you use to make the adjustments? Did you have to use a mirror to see what you were doing? What size tubing did you use, and how do you cap them off when you are done with the sync process?
Thanks in advance
I was able to install the hoses from the left side without removing the tank or the valve cover. I used extra long needlenose pliers from harbor freight
Bill
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I won't answer for Bill but I have seen his set up and it is <slick>. Way slicker than just dangling the hoses on the left hand side. But it is Bill's story to tell and maybe include a photo or two.
And Bill has a closed- loop video device that he uses to do the actual synch. itself which is even slicker than the vacuum hose routing.
Brian
Wild Bill,
Besides removing the left side panel, did you have to remove anything else? What did you use to make the adjustments? Did you have to use a mirror to see what you were doing? What size tubing did you use, and how do you cap them off when you are done with the sync process?
Thanks in advance
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I was able to install the hoses from the left side without removing the tank or the valve cover. I used extra long needlenose pliers from harbor freight
Bill
Ooooh, I like those pliers. Could possibly be used to get those pesky nose hairs...
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Maybe but after that you'd better run pretty quick 'cause it tends to put people off when you do that to them.
Brian
Ooooh, I like those pliers. Could possibly be used to get those pesky nose hairs...
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There is a wire mount that was in the way. I used the long nose pliers to unclip the wire holder from it's mount and get it out of the way. After moving the wires you have a clear shot at the hose connectoron the manifold, you just need steady hands on the pliers, its a long way in there.
I used 3/16" fuel line about 6' will be needed.
Fuel line will hold up better than vacuam line with the temp. around the engine.
I ran the lines to the left side of the bike and to a mounting block that I made up. The block is 3/4" x 1 1/2" with 4 1/2" holes and a slot cut thru on 1 side with an allen setscrew to hold the block onto the bike frame.
I then used hose splices with vacuam caps to block off the hose ends
Now when I need to do a sync I just pull off the caps and hookup the gauges
Bill
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That IS slick. The hose splices are available at most auto parts stores?
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Just my opinion but.... I would not buy or use any tool with fewer readouts than the number of cylinders that the bike has. I synch. six cylinder engines with two separate four tube manometers side by side. As these work on physics rather than calibration or adjustment, as long as they are at the same vertical height, all tubes will read correctly even across two manometers. Four cylinder vacuum gauges are easy enough to get that I would not consider a twin gauge and jumping between two cylinders with each gauge. When you make an adjustment on one T.B. or the balance screw between T.B. #'s 2 and 3, ALL the T.B. vacuum levels will change. It is really pretty important to watch all cylinders at the same time. .....Brian
I dissagree....if you get settings jumping around at each adjustment, you have valve issues.....
here's my $0.02 get some popcorn.....
Thanks for the kind offer MOB. I would like to take you up but I am unclear how to use it for theC14 since the first step in the manual calls for comparing all 4 cylindars:
"If any vacuum is not within specifications, first synchronize
the balance of the left (#1, #2 throttle valves) and
right (#3, #4 throttle valves) assemblies.
Example:
#1: 240 mmHg
#2: 250 mmHg
#3: 230 mmHg
#4: 240 mmHg •With the engine at the correct idle speed, equalize higher
vacuum of #1 or #2 (for example 250 mmHg) to higher
vacuum of #3 or #4 (for example 240 mmHg) by turning
the center adjusting screw [A]."
How would you do this with the Twin Max?
this bike is really no different to adjust than any, the original C10 included..and
I have ad-nauseum explaned adjusting those carbs using the Twin-Max.
There is absolutly no reason this tool will not work here, and I will explain.
Now, I will say you cannot "measure actual vacume" with this tool, but the synch does not require this anyways, you are only adjusting to make everything "equal" to the "highest" value found...
the reference in your post of a value of XXX mmhg refers to a reading on a true manometer, filled with Mercury, which is drawn upwards thru the bore of the tube (that bore measures 1mm diameter).
All vacume gages use this measurment, as it has been made standard internationally now. (Used to be inches of mercury, wayyyy back in time), so you will understand that height of the column of mercury when that gage is used will show column heights relating to the "mm Hg".... Hg being Mercury.....
when you synch on this bike, you need to pull the big air switch hose (right side of bike) out from the airbox, and plug both ends prior to adjustments. Idle speed should be set to 1100 rpm using the throttle adjust knob. Engine should be WARMED up, and at operating temp.
enough about that...The Twin Max works like this.
With the meter sensitivity set HIGH, the meter is adjusted to center, with the hoses disconnected. This adjustment is crucial. You then connect the meter to 2 sources (cyl #1 and #2), start the engine and note the side (either A or B ) that is the higher of the 2. Shut down the engine, and insuring you haven't tweaked the adjustment knob, re-attach the meter to the other 2 sources (cyl #3 and #4), recording which of those 2 is the higher one. Shut down again, and repeat this operation one more time comparing the highest reading cylinder from each of the pairs....record. don't adjust anything, including the meter, it still should be zeroed when no vac is being drawn.
You adjust each bank (left or right) separatly, then synch the 2 banks.
By your reference chart above you will attempt to:
#2 is the highest reading t/b, it will be the point to achieve on the other 3 cyl's.
adjust #1 up to equal #2 using the pilot bypass screw on the back of #1 tb
adjust #3 up to equal #4 using the pilot bypass screw on the back of #3 tb
now with the meter attached to #2 and #4, bring the right bank (#4) up to equal that of left bank(#2)
using the center throttle link adjusting screw.
Verify all are equal by comparing #1 and #3...they should be good now.
If the vacumes are realllly off, which they shouldn't be, you may have to remove, and clean all the pilot screws....the manual is your friend.
Section 2-18
Having a single, and accruate true vacume gage is also a good idea, so you can actually measure the high one to see what it really is (xxx mmhg)
Synchronization is simply Comparing 2 sources, and making them equal, there is absolutly no reason to have to read 4 different meters, which are all physically different from each other, and connot possibly be "equal" in thier real values.
I have verified this on every major tool out now, using "Tee"s and inline precision shutoff valves with the twinMax in the loop, and have proof that while most are good, none are as accurate in comparing A to B....period.
The Twin Max is the most accurate, Clean, AND Simple 2 source Comparitor on the market.
welcome to the age of electronic analysys.
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Thanks for the great explaination. I think it makes sense to me.
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There is a wire mount that was in the way. I used the long nose pliers to unclip the wire holder from it's mount and get it out of the way. After moving the wires you have a clear shot at the hose connectoron the manifold, you just need steady hands on the pliers, its a long way in there.
I used 3/16" fuel line about 6' will be needed.
Fuel line will hold up better than vacuam line with the temp. around the engine.
I ran the lines to the left side of the bike and to a mounting block that I made up. The block is 3/4" x 1 1/2" with 4 1/2" holes and a slot cut thru on 1 side with an allen setscrew to hold the block onto the bike frame.
I then used hose splices with vacuam caps to block off the hose ends
Now when I need to do a sync I just pull off the caps and hookup the gauges
Bill
hey WBill...what is the blue bubble wrap stuff under your tank?
Just wondered.
Dade22
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My tank would get hot to the touch when the fuel level was getting low, so I put some insulation between the tank and the frame. Now the tank stay cool, well at least not as hot as it was.
I used the winshield reflector stuff made for cars to keep the interior cool when the car is parked in the sunshine
Bill
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Very well done! Any recommendation for a vacuum gauge?
There is a wire mount that was in the way. I used the long nose pliers to unclip the wire holder from it's mount and get it out of the way. After moving the wires you have a clear shot at the hose connectoron the manifold, you just need steady hands on the pliers, its a long way in there.
I used 3/16" fuel line about 6' will be needed.
Fuel line will hold up better than vacuam line with the temp. around the engine.
I ran the lines to the left side of the bike and to a mounting block that I made up. The block is 3/4" x 1 1/2" with 4 1/2" holes and a slot cut thru on 1 side with an allen setscrew to hold the block onto the bike frame.
I then used hose splices with vacuam caps to block off the hose ends
Now when I need to do a sync I just pull off the caps and hookup the gauges
Bill
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Where is Fred, and why did he leave us? :(
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He is occasionally over on the COG site. You can find him there.
There are various reasons speculated as to why he might have left this forum but I have not seen Fred actually address the issue so I do not know which reason is correct.
Brian
Where is Fred, and why did he leave us? :(
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I ain't going anywhere.... ;)
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Now that was kinda' funny Rich. :D
But speaking of going anywhere, are you going to the National?
Brian
I ain't going anywhere.... ;)
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Where is Fred, and why did he leave us? :(
Maybe he is unhappy that all his work was "lost" and he doesn't want to start it all over?
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Now that was kinda' funny Rich. :D
But speaking of going anywhere, are you going to the National?
Brian
Unfortunatly I cannot attend, and am kinda bummed, but they'll be another one next year.
hopefully. 8)
speaking of funny ;D
Maybe he is unhappy that all his work was "lost" and he doesn't want to start it all over?
now THAT is funny..... 8)
if he only knew how much "work" the rest of us "lost" :'(
maybe video sales are "greener" over on the "other" site...... ;D
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Where is Fred, and why did he leave us? :(
He found monitoring two forums a bit much.... Although, what's strange to me is that he hasn't tried to sell his videos over here. He's missing out on another market. But that's life, I guess.
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Adjusting the center screw with the mirror and right angle screwdriver was a real challenge! I found a large rectangular inspection mirror that made it much easier but still a real challenge for me. Something about my brain maybe drives me nuts trying to manipulate a tool in reversed view.
Luckily the TBs were not far off to start with.
Even with the big mirror I could not seem to get that perfect view of the screw that was not partially blocked by the tool so it was just trial and error to actually get the flat blade lined up with the slot. If you can find a tool with a phillips head instead you'll have an easier time.
Even with a box fan the bike was getting hot while I struggled. I shut her off and spent some time practicing while I waited for it to cool. Got lucky there because my practicing actually got me close.
I thought the bleed screws would be easier but they weren't. Anyway it took very little actual adjustment to get it done, 90% of the effort was just getting the tool in position.
The Morgan Carbtune Pro worked great.
View of the center adjusting screw:
(http://www.lamsta.com/gallery/screwview.jpg)
Final result:
(http://www.lamsta.com/gallery/C14-TBSync-August2011.jpg)