Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Concours144545 on June 05, 2015, 06:08:46 PM
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I did a search and could not find any information. My 2011 Kawasaki Concours 14 Is getting throttle hang when I go to take off quick. If I idle and flip the throttle it comes right back no sticking. Any ideas? I would appreciate any help on this.
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Check the usual suspects. Make sure the throttle cables are not bending too sharply or getting pinched. You might get some cable lube (I prefer the dry graphite type) and lube the cables. There some be some crud in the throttle plate assy or the problem could be in the throttle grip itself.
Something is keeping the return spring from pulling the throttle all the way closed.
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Check the usual suspects. Make sure the throttle cables are not bending too sharply or getting pinched. You might get some cable lube (I prefer the dry graphite type) and lube the cables. There some be some crud in the throttle plate assy or the problem could be in the throttle grip itself.
Something is keeping the return spring from pulling the throttle all the way closed.
This bike has only 3000 miles on it. It only does it if I take off 3/4 throttle shifting through the gears. It will not do it reving it or driving slow. Throttle will return every time. I'm confused as it makes no sense.
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The throttle system inc. cables, return spring, etc., should work the same with the engine off as with it on. Play with it slowly with the engine off to see if you can detect a point where it's hanging up. Sounds like that may be around 3/4 throttle since revving or slow speed is not likely to require more than 1/2 throttle.
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The throttle system inc. cables, return spring, etc., should work the same with the engine off as with it on. Play with it slowly with the engine off to see if you can detect a point where it's hanging up. Sounds like that may be around 3/4 throttle since revving or slow speed is not likely to require more than 1/2 throttle.
I'll try it tomorrow and post back.
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You may want to keep trying the throttle with the engine off but move the bars throughout their whole travel range while the bike is on the center stand.
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I have read in the past that the throttle sleeve slightly binds on the handle bar. The remedy for this is to lightly sand the aluminum bar end to make it clean. Then take white teflon tape and make thin, slightly overlapping wraps to completely cover the bar end. This will give the throttle sleeve a friction free surface to rotate on.
I have not perfirmed this on my bike YET. But the first sign of throttle errors, and I will be doing this mod.
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I have read in the past that the throttle sleeve slightly binds on the handle bar. The remedy for this is to lightly sand the aluminum bar end to make it clean. Then take white tenon tape and make thin, slightly overlapping wraps to completely cover the bar end. This will give the throttle sleeve a friction free surface to rotate on.
I have not perfirmed this on my bike YET. But the first sign of throttle errors, and I will be doing this mod.
What is tenon tape? Never heard of it.
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Typo...or auto correct on my phone. Teflon tape
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Just to be clear on your issue, do you actually feel the throttle stuck in your hand, and unable to close it when shifting gears? As you know, our bike has a cable throttle with TWO cables, one for opening the throttle, and the other to close it. If you can't close it physically, you have a serious issue, and no way it'd be the throttle sleeve. Something must be binding at the linkage in the throttle bodies. Now, if you don't feel a physical bind in your hand, then it could be how you're shifting. Another key question: Are you sure this wasn't happening before, and now it does? If your bike just started doing this, then you know for sure there's something wrong somewhere. That being the case, prompts the question what was done to the bike prior to that happening: Any services, especially near there, like throttle synch, etc? Any mods, like cruise control, or other work around there? Have you lost a tool and don't know where it is ;D? If nothing has been done to the bike and it's the first time you shift that high, I'd offer an experienced Connie rider to ride your bike and see if it's you or the bike. When accelerating hard, it's hard to release the throttle since it requires moving your hand forward, when you're being pushed backward. It happens. Same with inadvertently up-shifting early (with a 'bang') if you stick your boot under the shift lever the first few launches. Good luck, and keep us posted.
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Just to be clear on your issue, do you actually feel the throttle stuck in your hand, and unable to close it when shifting gears? As you know, our bike has a cable throttle with TWO cables, one for opening the throttle, and the other to close it. If you can't close it physically, you have a serious issue, and no way it'd be the throttle sleeve. Something must be binding at the linkage in the throttle bodies. Now, if you don't feel a physical bind in your hand, then it could be how you're shifting. Another key question: Are you sure this wasn't happening before, and now it does? If your bike just started doing this, then you know for sure there's something wrong somewhere. That being the case, prompts the question what was done to the bike prior to that happening: Any services, especially near there, like throttle synch, etc? Any mods, like cruise control, or other work around there? Have you lost a tool and don't know where it is ;D? If nothing has been done to the bike and it's the first time you shift that high, I'd offer an experienced Connie rider to ride your bike and see if it's you or the bike. When accelerating hard, it's hard to release the throttle since it requires moving your hand forward, when you're being pushed backward. It happens. Same with inadvertently up-shifting early (with a 'bang') if you stick your boot under the shift lever the first few launches. Good luck, and keep us posted.
This only happens under 3/4 throttle moving. There is no binding revving it or shut off. I can close it by twisting the throttle closed. It's definitely only when driving under those conditions. I've owned several different motorcycles and never experienced this before especially when it's only go 3000 miles on it. Only mods I've done was a Guhls flash and a CS1 slip on. Never did this before either as it just started. Something is causing it to stick under 3/4 throttle moving. This makes no sense either. Btw it doesn't matter if I'm driving straight or turning still does it.
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The C14 is not a "fly-by-wire" throttle as some other bikes and cars are, so it must be a mechanical problem. If the throttle itself is not sticking there could be an issue with an air leak in the intake fooling the ECU, an issue with the FI ECU, an issue with the throttle bodies, the TPS (throttle position sensor), or something similar. But I'm a strong believer in ruling out the most likely issues first and the mechanical linkage is almost certainly the weakest link.
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The C14 is not a "fly-by-wire" throttle as some other bikes and cars are, so it must be a mechanical problem. If the throttle itself is not sticking there could be an issue with an air leak in the intake fooling the ECU, an issue with the FI ECU, an issue with the throttle bodies, the TPS (throttle position sensor), or something similar. But I'm a strong believer in ruling out the most likely issues first and the mechanical linkage is almost certainly the weakest link.
All I know is I'm pissed off to be honest. Bike us brand new per say. I've owned many kawasaki's but this may be the last. I'm gonna pull the tank maybe tomorrow and will report back. I don't think it's a cable issue at all. It's probably in the throttle body or computer issues.
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All I know is I'm pissed off to be honest. Bike us brand new per say. I've owned many kawasaki's but this may be the last.
If it is any consolation, I have been following the forums for approx 5 years and I have never seen an issue posted about throttle sticking on a Concours like what you describe (that is not simply a kinked cable or one that sits in the elements and just needs some lube).
I wouldn't be too quick to blame Kawasaki- Is it possible someone went in there and did some work on it and caused the problem?
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If it is any consolation, I have been following the forums for approx 5 years and I have never seen an issue posted about throttle sticking on a Concours like what you describe (that is not simply a kinked cable or one that sits in the elements and just needs some lube).
I wouldn't be too quick to blame Kawasaki- Is it possible someone went in there and did some work on it and caused the problem?
No I do all my own work. Never touched the throttle body or cables. Just a Guhls flash and CS1 slip on
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ok, bike with 3000 miles, and apparently never any reason to believe anyone messed with the cables , throttle, or any such mechanical parts... all this conjecture is really just that...
my guess is while moving it around, you pushed the throttle side grip enough that it is in contact with the right hand grip pod, and simply rubbing against it... look closely.... ive done this a bazillion times... and know right off to look at the grip, and make sure its not rubbing....this seems stupid to say, but even more stupid to blame a manufacturer for something induced by an owner who is unaware of something simple... if you didn't mess with anything mechanical that is in the throttle from grip to t bodies, I'm betting the grip is rubbing on the pod...
why do people make something soo simple into something mechanical, when an owner has so few miles on a bike, and has never messed with anything?
it just baffles me.
oh, by the way, you are the first person to report a throttle hang since the c14 came out... just saying... as I keep good records of these issues.
sooooo let us know what you find, please.
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ok, bike with 3000 miles, and apparently never any reason to believe anyone messed with the cables , throttle, or any such mechanical parts... all this conjecture is really just that...
my guess is while moving it around, you pushed the throttle side grip enough that it is in contact with the right hand grip pod, and simply rubbing against it... look closely.... ive done this a bazillion times... and know right off to look at the grip, and make sure its not rubbing....this seems stupid to say, but even more stupid to blame a manufacturer for something induced by an owner who is unaware of something simple... if you didn't mess with anything mechanical that is in the throttle from grip to t bodies, I'm betting the grip is rubbing on the pod...
why do people make something soo simple into something mechanical, when an owner has so few miles on a bike, and has never messed with anything?
it just baffles me.
sooooo let us know what you find, please.
What do you mean grip pod? Are you talking about the bar ends? If you could please give me a better description I'd appreciate it. Thank you
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the switch cluster inboard of the grip. I usually cut two pieces of ptfe bleach bottle plastic into round "washers" and fit them whenever I do a grip change.. it alows me to spritz in between them with some wd40, to insure I never have a friction problem there.. never did it to my 14, as it still has the grips supplied from '07 on it.
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the switch cluster inboard of the grip. I usually cut two pieces of ptfe bleach bottle plastic into round "washers" and fit them whenever I do a grip change.. it alows me to spritz in between them with some wd40, to insure I never have a friction problem there.. never did it to my 14, as it still has the grips supplied from '07 on it.
OK I'll check. I will tell you this then it happens and I twist the throttle closed it feels like a metal to metal contact. Like throttle body blades, but I ask myself why only when driving 3/4 throttle or above and not revving or off does it do this. Grrrrrr.
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M.O.B., are you saying that when you hear hoof beats look for horses, not zebras?
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Have you checked the KIPASS function? ::) It's been blamed for everything else...
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M.O.B., are you saying that when you hear hoof beats look for horses, no zebras?
Huh?
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Have you checked the KIPASS function? ::) It's been blamed for everything else...
Lol. Nothing surprises me anymore. I'll report back as soon as I figure this out.
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M.O.B., are you saying that when you hear hoof beats look for horses, not zebras?
15,000 engineers and comedians out of jobs... and you are cracking jokes...??? ::) 8) 8) :cool: :stirpot: :chugbeer: :chugbeer:
let me drink heavily fro a couple more months, and I'll sell ya my brain..,. 8)
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A great many folks on the forum tend to look for a complicated solution before a simple one. It is generally best to start with the simple things first. In your case, the cables and associated bits and pieces weren't re-routed or otherwise messed with, so it unlikely that they moved themselves. On a bike that new, a vacuum leak is virtually an impossibility. The chances of something like a TPS going bad aren't slim, they're downright anorexic.
Get the idea? I'm not trying to be a smart a$$, I'm just saying look for the obvious first.
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MOB, can't you read? Mr know-it-all, aka: elp_jc quickly squashed my thoughts and said that it's is NOT in the throttle sleeve. You need to learn to listen when a brand new C14 owner tells you the way to remedy.
Or wait, was it the fact that a woman came up with the thought first that this may be a source of the problem.
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A great many folks on the forum tend to look for a complicated solution before a simple one. It is generally best to start with the simple things first. In your case, the cables and associated bits and pieces weren't re-routed or otherwise messed with, so it unlikely that they moved themselves. On a bike that new, a vacuum leak is virtually an impossibility. The chances of something like a TPS going bad aren't slim, they're downright anorexic.
Get the idea? I'm not trying to be a smart a$$, I'm just saying look for the obvious first.
I clearly asked for advise I'm only stating what the bike is doing. Am I upset yes and you all would be to. I'll look more into this tomorrow, but I did check the grip somewhat and it looks fine.
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lemme know when a real problem occurs, and I diagnose it from 1000 miles away.
when you can do his consistantly, I'll rescind my comments.
thanks.
oh, did you wash your bike recently?
what oil do you use?
what tire pressure.?
oh, never mind, this is rediculous.
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On my 08, the warmer the day, the stickier the throttle. Some days, the throttle will stay where I twist it, off idle to 3-4K RPM. Can scare the chit out of me, when I blip the throttle and it stays revved. I believe my throttle tube or grip end is sticking, like sailor _chic said, and I need to silicone lube and teflon tape, as prescribed. Read other posts stating the same problem and cure. thanks, ma'am...tp
FWIW, it feels like I have an engaged Throttle Meister, but I don't have one on the bike... tp
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Can't say for a Connie, never had a problem with it but have had similar issues on other bikes and if the cables aren't binding it has always turned out to be the throttle sleeve not moving freely due to inadequate lubrication or like the situation MoB describes.
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OK I'll check. I will tell you this then it happens and I twist the throttle closed it feels like a metal to metal contact. Like throttle body blades, but I ask myself why only when driving 3/4 throttle or above and not revving or off does it do this. Grrrrrr.
if it was an issue with the throttle plates, you would likely get a tps error messege, weeve seen these occur a few times when people are a little forceful removing the secondary butterfly plates, it doesn't take much to tweak the main rod, and even minimal binding on it produces an error code.
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aka: elp_jc quickly squashed my thoughts and said that it's is NOT in the throttle sleeve.
Know it all (that's MOB, by the way)? And playing the woman victim here? Geez; thought you were better than that. Anyway, I simply stated that on a bike with a POSITIVE THROTTLE CLOSING cable working and adjusted properly, if you can close the throttle, binding or not, you close the throttle blades (no air), and no high-rpm rev-hang should occur on a stock bike not designed to do that (some are via a solenoid on the throttle stop). In addition, if throttle is not binding at all when stationary, and with a HOT engine, it's unlikely the problem is with the plastic throttle tube. But it is possible. Remember the guy hasn't found the problem, so at least wait until that happens if you want to play your (fully unwarranted) BS woman victim card.
Now, with the 2 new revelations (a tune and 'metal to metal' contact), he could have TWO problems. If the ECU keeps injecting fuel for a moment with the throttle closed, and the throttle closing cable has some play in it, revhang could occur for a second or so. And the idle air passage alone could allow that even if the throttle plates are closing properly. Therefore, I wouldn't rule out the tune at all. But the culprit could be the tune or a bad TPS (throttle position sensor), so the only way to eliminate it as the rev-hang problem is to put the ECU back to stock and see what happens. Next, the 'metal to metal' contact is a clear sign of a problem somewhere. Therefore, if I was the OP, I'd just flash the ECU back to normal, and if the problem persists (ruling out the tune), take it in under warranty and let a dealer/Kawasaki sort this very weird problem you're having. Good luck.
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Know it all (that's MOB, by the way)? And playing the woman victim here? Geez; thought you were better than that. Anyway, I simply stated that on a bike with a POSITIVE THROTTLE CLOSING cable working and adjusted properly, if you can close the throttle, binding or not, you close the throttle blades (no air), and no high-rpm rev-hang should occur on a stock bike not designed to do that (some are via a solenoid on the throttle stop). In addition, if throttle is not binding at all when stationary, and with a HOT engine, it's unlikely the problem is with the plastic throttle tube. But it is possible. Remember the guy hasn't found the problem, so at least wait until that happens if you want to play your (fully unwarranted) BS woman victim card.
Now, with the 2 new revelations (a tune and 'metal to metal' contact), he could have TWO problems. If the ECU keeps injecting fuel for a moment with the throttle closed, and the throttle closing cable has some play in it, revhang could occur for a second or so. And the idle air passage alone could allow that even if the throttle plates are closing properly. Therefore, I wouldn't rule out the tune at all. But the culprit could be the tune or a bad TPS (throttle position sensor), so the only way to eliminate it as the rev-hang problem is to put the ECU back to stock and see what happens. Next, the 'metal to metal' contact is a clear sign of a problem somewhere. Therefore, if I was the OP, I'd just flash the ECU back to normal, and if the problem persists (ruling out the tune), take it in under warranty and let a dealer/Kawasaki sort this very weird problem you're having. Good luck.
do you actually read completely the problem someone describes, with all the minute details they give, before jumping in to impress all with your responses?
you need to put some miles on your bike..
and you ain't winning friends or impressing people in the least when you diss a woman that gave a very simple and concise cure for what most likely is a very simple issue.
I'm soo glad I'm on ignore. ::)
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Now for once I can actually agree with something that you wrote. MOB is a man of great knowledge and he nonchalantly will share his tricks of the trade without the ulterior motive of inflating his own ego.
I heed his advice in such a manner that I will physically make notes so the valuable information won't vanish.
I'm also impressed that you think you know me so well already. First I never stated being a victim, those are now your words. I'm speaking from experience that I obtain daily. I work in a very masculine, egocentric environment and see women shunned on a daily basis. Especially when a man's feelings are so easily hurt, ie: when a blonde in a pink hardhat Is encroaching on there KSA (knowledge skills and abilities) I won't even mention how they cower when I will loosen something they considered tight. So yes, I can say that you're on the edge of being but hurt that I may be in the proper area to remedy the OP problem.
I won't even mention how you were "teaching" me about wear bars on tires on a different thread. How insulting we that!!!
One last thought, please don't say that you know me, simply from limited interactions on these forums. If you care to actually know me, let's correspond. Or better yet, lets sit down and enjoy a libation after a day of long riding. Like over 400 miles!
Now back to the topic
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Of course you mean 400 miles before stopping for brunch, don't you? Oh, wait, could that be the 400 after the 400 before brunch? Or the last 400 after the first 800? ::)
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Of course I meant the 400 after the morning 400. Nothing wrong with an 800 mile day.
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If 800 isn't a full day, it's a fine start!
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Of course I meant the 400 after the morning 400. Nothing wrong with an 800 mile day.
Tell that to my aching back :)
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if I'm getting Nicole's drift, I wager on her meaning... you need more than 400 miles on the freaking odometer before you start puking out every spec on the bike, including valve adjusts, and .... other wisdom that metric feelers define better than inch... yeah. ::) ::) ::)
http://www.metricmetal.com/pdfs/inch_mill_smallnumbers.pdf (http://www.metricmetal.com/pdfs/inch_mill_smallnumbers.pdf)
I know my measurements are at the .000x"
meh
never mind.
I foresee a bike sale, as I've seen before...
Low mileage
Adult ridden
Garage kept.. ( duh..)
no badges... lotsa farkles...
oh, and no factory service manual, (but for a fee, I could recite ad-nausea, just as was done in a movie I love...about a King James Bible, and a Blind man.)
carry on.
to the O/P
I am sorry this rolled downhill, I would sincerely like to know what you find with regard to thee throttle grip, and also the tube, if you loosen the screws and re-position the throttle, and re-tighten it. or pull the grip back from the pod.
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Know it all (that's MOB, by the way)? And playing the woman victim here? Geez; thought you were better than that. Anyway, I simply stated that on a bike with a POSITIVE THROTTLE CLOSING cable working and adjusted properly, if you can close the throttle, binding or not, you close the throttle blades (no air), and no high-rpm rev-hang should occur on a stock bike not designed to do that (some are via a solenoid on the throttle stop). In addition, if throttle is not binding at all when stationary, and with a HOT engine, it's unlikely the problem is with the plastic throttle tube. But it is possible. Remember the guy hasn't found the problem, so at least wait until that happens if you want to play your (fully unwarranted) BS woman victim card.
Now, with the 2 new revelations (a tune and 'metal to metal' contact), he could have TWO problems. If the ECU keeps injecting fuel for a moment with the throttle closed, and the throttle closing cable has some play in it, revhang could occur for a second or so. And the idle air passage alone could allow that even if the throttle plates are closing properly. Therefore, I wouldn't rule out the tune at all. But the culprit could be the tune or a bad TPS (throttle position sensor), so the only way to eliminate it as the rev-hang problem is to put the ECU back to stock and see what happens. Next, the 'metal to metal' contact is a clear sign of a problem somewhere. Therefore, if I was the OP, I'd just flash the ECU back to normal, and if the problem persists (ruling out the tune), take it in under warranty and let a dealer/Kawasaki sort this very weird problem you're having. Good luck.
man
that just sucks :censored:
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I got the tank off and inspected all linkage and everything looks OK. Could a TPS cause this condition by chance?
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My throttle hangs up every now and then, especially when I inadvertantly tighten, (or forget to completely loosen) my Throttlemeister, LOL!
I've learned to check that first, and it has always been the culprit so far: a partially-engaged Throttlemeister causes the throttle to hang up every time.
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Assuming everything on the bars are stock...and you can't figure it out, take it back to the dealer and let them figure it out.
As to the rest of us....mellow out, please.
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My throttle hangs up every now and then, especially when I inadvertantly tighten, (or forget to completely loosen) my Throttlemeister, LOL!
I've learned to check that first, and it has always been the culprit so far: a partially-engaged Throttlemeister causes the throttle to hang up every time.
I appreciate the tip, but I don't have one of those. Weird it on happens when I am moving and about 3/4 throttle. I I'm just cruising I have zero issues.
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I got the tank off and inspected all linkage and everything looks OK. Could a TPS cause this condition by chance?
the TPS on this bike is very passive, and really can't malfuntion in a manner to make it stick, and if there something up in there rubbing on the rod, as I noted you would see error messeges for certain, we have seen numerous instances of this on bikes where people removed the secondary flies, and just pressed a bit too hard on the screws, which deflected the rod minutely.... and they had error messages.
I'm with taking it into the dealer, its under warranty.
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All the errors reported were on the secondary throttle plates, never on the primary. This gentleman is talking about the primary throttle, not the secondary throttle. If the primary throttle were to bind for any reason, the throttle position sensor would not report any error as it has no input on there the rider is trying to place the throttle in the first place.
To put this another way, the secondary throttle system generates errors when the stepper motor is trying to send the throttle rod to a place it cannot reach, and the sensor notes this. As it is purely the rider who positions the primary throttle through the throttle cables, the primary throttle position sensor would not sense any result of binding or fault- it would simply report the position of the primary throttle whether that position is what the rider wants or not.
Brian
the TPS on this bike is very passive, and really can't malfuntion in a manner to make it stick, and if there something up in there rubbing on the rod, as I noted you would see error messeges for certain, we have seen numerous instances of this on bikes where people removed the secondary flies, and just pressed a bit too hard on the screws, which deflected the rod minutely.... and they had error messages.
I'm with taking it into the dealer, its under warranty.
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A remote possibility but only if it was seizing itself, which is extremely doubtful.
A lot of modern bikes, the C-14 included, have poor throttle feel and glide due to the handlebars being made of aluminum. I struggled with my own throttle tube dragging, sticking ("stiction") and generally behaving badly until I tried someone else' suggestion to wrap the handlebar with Teflon tape. I really thought the stuff was far too soft (Easy Boys!) to last but it has been on my bike for years and 10's of thousands of miles and still works great.
The underlying problem is a plastic tube sliding around a piece of aluminum. Those two materials make a terrible bearing surface, and in addtion to that both are very soft (Boys!) and wear very quickly, leaving lots of grooves to trap grit and debris and make the whole situation worse. I cleaned my tube (!!) and bar (!!!) several times as well as trying dry lubricants but in the end nothing really worked for more than a few days other than the Teflon. Old bikes had the advantage of having steel tube handlebars that were chromed- a very hard (Steady Boys!) material with very low friction which entirely by mistake was a pretty good surface for a throttle tube to rotate around.
I suspect if you take your throttle tube off the bike, which is pretty easy to do, you will find both crud as well as significant wear on the aluminum bar. Even replacing the handlebar and throttle tube with new ones (not inexpensive) is not really a solution IMO for the reasons mentioned above.
If you do try the tape, please be careful to put it on evenly and tightly- you do not want a ball of that stuff stuck between the handlebar and the throttle tube. :-(
Brian
I got the tank off and inspected all linkage and everything looks OK. Could a TPS cause this condition by chance?
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A lot of modern bikes, the C-14 included, have poor throttle feel and glide due to the handlebars being made of aluminum. I struggled with my own throttle tube dragging, sticking ("stiction") and generally behaving badly until I tried someone else' suggestion to wrap the handlebar with Teflon tape. I really thought the stuff was far too soft (Easy Boys!) to last but it has been on my bike for years and 10's of thousands of miles and still works great. [...]Even replacing the handlebar and throttle tube with new ones (not inexpensive) is not really a solution IMO for the reasons mentioned above.
I did note that when I installed the Throttle Tamer, which is a replacement throttle tube, the feel of the throttle immediately was much smoother and has stayed that way. Theirs is an aluminum tube and lined with some type of nylon or something. So I got rid of the "throttle snatch" exactly as claimed, but got a smoother, better throttle to go along with it as an unexpected bonus. I would certainly recommend THAT route if one were ready to plop down money to try a replace the tube...
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Mine sticks, especially when it gets close to 90+ degrees outside. I need to disassemble and correct, but I leave home on it early in the AM, and go home on it in the evening, when it is too damn hot to care. One day it will come apart and I will find the problem, whether it's the tube, grip expansion or woolly buggers/gremlins living in the right side of my C14. HOPE EVERYONE HAS A SAFE AND WONDERFUL RIDING TIME THIS WEEK.....tp
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A lot of modern bikes, the C-14 included, have poor throttle feel and glide due to the handlebars being made of aluminum.
That's because your bikes are made of that inferior aluminum. Here across the pond, our handlebars are made of aluminium, hence feeling great and gliding nicely ;D
As usual, I don't agree with MoB's ways, but his advice should be heard: a bit of friction at either side of the grip might be the simple culprit. All I read in this thread hints me in that direction.
OP: please keep us posted.
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Is this to much throttle play do you think?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNkym1mhceE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNkym1mhceE)
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Is this to much throttle play do you think?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNkym1mhceE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNkym1mhceE)
This is from the owners manual: Throttle Grip Play, 2 ∼ 3 mm (0.08 ∼ 0.12 in.) That looks like possibly a little more, but mine resembles the video, and seems good to me. tp
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This is from the owners manual: Throttle Grip Play, 2 ∼ 3 mm (0.08 ∼ 0.12 in.) That looks like possibly a little more, but mine resembles the video, and seems good to me. tp
Mine actually seems like it is more than that, but I also have felt like I probably need to adjust mine again.
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Not what I wanted to hear. Dealer said it's not under warranty. Grrrrrr
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That's a bunch. I adjusted mine with the bike warmed up and running. The proverbial hair thickness is all the movement I've got. Just enough to know it's at idle and not held open by the cable.
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Not what I wanted to hear. Dealer said it's not under warranty. Grrrrrr
The adjustment technique is in the owner's manual, it's simple and uses a just couple of wrenches or pliers.
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The adjustment technique is in the owner's manual, it's simple and uses a just couple of wrenches or pliers.
Yeah, it really isn't all that difficult. And it seems like it is something that does need to be done about once every year or two. I imagine the cables probably stretch a tad with use.
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Yeah, it really isn't all that difficult. And it seems like it is something that does need to be done about once every year or two. I imagine the cables probably stretch a tad with use.
Stretching probably depends on how hard and often the throttle is twisted... tp
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Is this to much throttle play do you think?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNkym1mhceE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNkym1mhceE)
ok, somebody help me out here... I own an '08 what is with is that shroud that is sitting over the throttle housing where 2 screws should be visible... ????
there is more here than meets the eye, but when this meets my eye, I have to ask....
Beuhler?
and throttle cables are soo robust, you could actually pick a bike up with one... without it stretching....
once adjusted, I have a hard time believing it would need readjusting ever, due to stretch.. removal and reinstalling yes, stretch.... not happenin.
plot thickens
seeing the vid shows me the grip ain't rubbing on the pod, but I can't be positive on the other end by the bar weight...
also, the "metalic" sound you hear both in the vid, and when manually closing the throttle when it sticks, is the throttle rod set screw slamming home on the metalic "lump" it rests on to maintain adjustment.
you really need to turn the bars to the left, remove the screws and throttle assembly, and insure the guts are clean and lubed. and when reinstalled not pushed on soo far as to let the outboard end of the grip, rub the end of the bar.
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ok, somebody help me out here... I own an '08 what is with is that shroud that is sitting over the throttle housing where 2 screws should be visible... ????
there is more here than meets the eye, but when this meets my eye, I have to ask....
MOB, heated grips, and that is the cover/shroud, protecting the wire coming from the grip. At least that's what I see...tomp
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MOB, heated grips, and that is the cover/shroud, protecting the wire coming from the grip. At least that's what I see...tomp
ahhhhh.. thanx... no heated gripz on my bike...
just another point of failure... oops, sorry.
I take it there is no extended warranty on this bike either.... bummer.
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Too much play in the throttle. My 08 would be almost un=rideable with that much play. Very jirky on/off throttle.
If this was my problem the first thing I would do is remove the throttle cables from the twist grip and check grip movement.
If the movement is fine I'd try pulling and pushing (at the same time) the cables. If that checks out I'd be looking for another C-14 owner to ride the bike for their opinion.
Bob Skinner
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Too much play in the throttle. My 08 would be almost un=rideable with that much play. Very jirky on/off throttle.
If this was my problem the first thing I would do is remove the throttle cables from the twist grip and check grip movement.
If the movement is fine I'd try pulling and pushing (at the same time) the cables. If that checks out I'd be looking for another C-14 owner to ride the bike for their opinion.
Bob Skinner
:stirpot: :hitfan: :hitfan: :hitfan: :deadhorse: :popcorn: :loco:
great job.
thanks.
his freeplay is correct.
again, thanks.
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Can you guys please confirm that if you take off quick and rev it beyond 5 thousand rpm that you get no hanging throttle? Mine hangs around that rpm if I was to pull the clutch in after taken off quick. Where it sticks is almost at the closed throttle point and I need to twist it a little closed it to bring it full closed. If a few of you could please try it on your bikes I'd appreciate your feedback.
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no hanging here. Bike is 60 000 miles.
MoB has a point: the cables don't stretch perceptively. You can really pick up the bike with one of those, with quite a safety margin, and it won't stretch more than 0.5%, and that's a lot for a steel cable. I'm going on a limb here, but if the cable is 1.5 foot long (just a number from my head) that means 0.06" extension, which for us "normal" people of this world means 1,5 mm. And that is if you lift the bike! So just by using it... I don't see any stretch happening, and definitely not a plastic deformation.
However, come to think of it, it's made of individual threads that might accommodate relative to each other, hence the stretching of the cable... :banghead:
Ahhh, forget it...
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Kinda makes your brane hurt, doesn't it, Martin? I try not to think of such things as my brane hurts enough as it is.
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Gonna take it apart again. It's gotta be throttle body related or secondary throttle plates. I'll keep you all posted. Thank you all for your input I appreciate it.
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+1 on the Throttle Tamer
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+1 on the Throttle Tamer
Throttle tamer?
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Throttle tamer?
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=15231.msg208206#msg208206 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=15231.msg208206#msg208206)
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There is no interaction between the primary and secondary throttle plates ("the 'flies"). Whatever your throttle problem is, it cannot be related to the secondaries; no sense in spending any time on that possibility. Best of luck with the diagnosis.
Brian
Gonna take it apart again. It's gotta be throttle body related or secondary throttle plates. I'll keep you all posted. Thank you all for your input I appreciate it.
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I agree, but I have to check everything. Whatever this issue is only happens when it's above 5 thousand rpm which is when the power comes on strong. I don't think it's a throttle cable issue at as it would do it all the time. This is a throttle body related issue or throttle plates. I will figure it out and will post my findings.
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Are the secondary butterflies supposed to be closed when you shut off the bike because mine stay open about 3/4 of the way.
Here is a video. When I turn the key off they don't close all the way. I don't see anything else. I know I'm reaching for straws as the secondaries have really nothing to do with the throttle blades. Any other input would be appreciated.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trhQAW8e6Yw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trhQAW8e6Yw)
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FIXED
Not sure what they call this, but it attached to the secondaries. It was corroded and was sticking and was causing the throttle to stick when the secondaries would try to close. Many thanks to all that helped, But especially this guy below. See attached video. I hope this can help someone else as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyBtaz7JqmM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyBtaz7JqmM)
Offline henerythe8th
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Re: Throttle won't completely return to closed when driving above 5,000 rpm
« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2015, 11:40:27 AM »
Quote
This is as it was discussed by the stealership guy from when I had this repair done under warranty:
I'd recommend that you remove the plastic, I believe on the LH side of the bike.
You should be able to see a screw that is an adjustment for the secondaries (if I remember correctly) that has a screw with a locknut (and perhaps a spring).
I was told that it was 'factory painted' to show that it had been checked and that the paint should go from the screw past the bracket and onto the locknut.
Mine experienced rotation due to vibration and would change the rpm that the bike could idle down to.
Could be that the 5000rpm is the magic vibration zone that allows your screw to rotate.
Just something to check...
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Thanks for the feedback!
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All I know is I'm pissed off to be honest. Bike us brand new per say. I've owned many kawasaki's but this may be the last. I'm gonna pull the tank maybe tomorrow and will report back. I don't think it's a cable issue at all. It's probably in the throttle body or computer issues.
It will not be the fuel tank you need to pull to get to the cables or the linkage/return spring etc on the throttle bodies. but you will be pulling some body panels and miscellaneous other pieces under them.
It did not do it pre the flash and now it does?-- because it does not sound like a throttle tube/cable mechanical issue based on the follow up.
I see the high idle adjuster was sticking.......... I guess I should have read the entire thread before commenting
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It will not be the fuel tank you need to pull to get to the cables or the linkage/return spring etc on the throttle bodies. but you will be pulling some body panels and miscellaneous other pieces under them.
It did not do it pre the flash and now it does?-- because it does not sound like a throttle tube/cable mechanical issue based on the follow up.
I see the high idle adjuster was sticking.......... I guess I should have read the entire thread before commenting
Yes it was. Hopefully this will help someone else as well.