Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: gildaguz on April 03, 2015, 02:58:40 PM
-
Bike is a 2009 non ABS with 51 k, around 50 k star hearing a noise when pushing it out of the garage , tough that might be the driveshaft splines, but having the drive shaft out I spin by hand the gear where the shaft is connected at front side and noise is coming from inside bevel gears case, any way put some moly grease to splines and put it back, there is not noise when riding it and everything is normal, noise is only when pushing it or if I spin rear wheel while in center stand,
Any suggestion about this problem?
I check the service manual and there are a couple of parts named CAM FOLLOWER and DAMPER CAM that I suspect is where the noise is coming from, I will take it apart but would like to know if some one had this problem before. Any advise will be appreciated
[Mod: Removed links to illegal copies of service manual site. -Max]
-
Don't think we've heard of this before. All the noise in that area has been attributed to the splines on the shaft being a bit dry. If you can hear it without the shaft installed that's something quite different. Do you have an extended warranty?
-
Unfortunately no, I will take apart that unit to see what I find wrong
-
If you see the pictures on this unit for sale on EBAY will see that piece on the center named DAMPER CAM that work in contact with other similar named CAM FOLLOWER might be the ones that are having the problem
http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-12-13-Kawasaki-Concours-14-ABS-ZG1400CBF-Front-Bevel-Gear-13101-0119-458-/321577314452?hash=item4adf806894&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-12-13-Kawasaki-Concours-14-ABS-ZG1400CBF-Front-Bevel-Gear-13101-0119-458-/321577314452?hash=item4adf806894&vxp=mtr)
-
This is the recording of the noise with bike on center stand and spinning rear wheel forward by hand
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL8YJJaf1i0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL8YJJaf1i0)
-
That does not sound good.
-
But I rode today to work and everything seems normal, rode it at 90 MPH and for the first time in 4 years lift the front wheel when I meet a coworker driving his charger getting close to work in the morning
-
Then that's the problem. You're not thrashing it enough.
-
This is the recording of the noise with bike on center stand and spinning rear wheel forward by hand
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL8YJJaf1i0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL8YJJaf1i0)
:yikes: :yikes:
-
But I rode today to work and everything seems normal, rode it at 90 MPH and for the first time in 4 years lift the front wheel when I meet a coworker driving his charger getting close to work in the morning
So you have a horrific noise emanating from the drive train and you ride it 90 MHP and also decide it is a good idea at some point in the ride to lift the front wheel? Care to name me as your beneficiary? I could use some cash.
-
So you have a horrific noise emanating from the drive train and you ride it 90 MHP and also decide it is a good idea at some point in the ride to lift the front wheel? Care to name me as your beneficiary? I could use some cash.
Yeah, when I read it, I thought something similar....
-
What I meant is that the noise is there only when I push it out of the garage or when spinning the wheel over the center stand , while riding it there are no noise or vibration , every thing is completely normal, I was expecting with this post to fin some advice from some one that have done this repair
Thanks
-
that's scary. I would for sure have it looked at by somebody with more knowledge than me.
-
Bike is a 2009 non ABS with 51 k, around 50 k star hearing a noise when pushing it out of the garage , tough that might be the driveshaft splines, but having the drive shaft out I spin by hand the gear where the shaft is connected at front side and noise is coming from inside bevel gears case...
This is the recording of the noise with bike on center stand and spinning rear wheel forward by hand
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL8YJJaf1i0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL8YJJaf1i0)
The bevel drives on the C14's fail once in a while...they start to click, or get loud and 'clunky'. Broken tooth, bearing, etc.
I've not heard one myself, but that's what I'd suspect.
I don't think you'll find much advice on the topic unfortunately...for most of the posts I read, the owners took their bikes to a Kawasaki dealer for repair, and then they rarely ever come back with details.
Rem
-
I did not buy an extended warranty so I will repair it myself, I work as auto mechanic for the last 28 years, I will take it apart during this week , will take pictures and post the progress of the repair
-
Ok things are getting complicated, after removing the drive gear unit found that is ok but apparently the noise is coming from the output shaft bearing, I recorded a video and there can be heard
Now i'm very sorry that I did not bought the extended warranty when I had the offer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKzBjEkUkUk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKzBjEkUkUk)
-
Ok things are getting complicated, after removing the drive gear unit found that is ok but apparently the noise is coming from the output shaft bearing, I recorded a video and there can be heard
Now i'm very sorry that I did not bought the extended warranty when I had the offer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKzBjEkUkUk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKzBjEkUkUk)
Uh oh. That doesn't sound good.
-
Uh oh. That doesn't sound good.
I know, I will start taking it apart this weekend
-
Finally I start taking it apart, so far I have removed everything I can to take weight out of the engine so it will be easier to pull it down, next push will be to take it out and split it apart to find out what parts I have to order for it, it might be that I have it ready for christmas, here is a video of she taken apart
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mtXNE_Wf-c (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mtXNE_Wf-c)
-
Oh crap! It looks like your bike exploded and littered parts all over your garage! :o
2009 kawasaki concours 14 removing engine (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mtXNE_Wf-c#)
Good luck man!!!
-
Oh crap! It looks like your bike exploded and littered parts all over your garage! :o
Good luck man!!!
Yessir...big job indeed. Good luck with it.
Last bike I split cases on was an 06 Kawi 636 to replace 2nd gear. Not fun...lol.
Rem
-
Hey, I would not fault anyone for [not] buying the warranty; normally these bikes are very robust and reliable. In fact, yours is only the third one I know of that had to have the engine taken out / cases split: the first one was internal engine damage while the owner was riding the bike hard (not saying it was his fault, just pointing out the condition when it happened). The second one was down for having spit the teeth off of fourth gear- that took up several tables while waiting for parts. Yours is the third that I have heard of. Best of luck with it.
Brian
Ok things are getting complicated, after removing the drive gear unit found that is ok but apparently the noise is coming from the output shaft bearing, I recorded a video and there can be heard
Now i'm very sorry that I did not bought the extended warranty when I had the offer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKzBjEkUkUk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKzBjEkUkUk)
-
Our pal Cognosticator, had to have a tranny rebuild also... a few years ago...it was covered with a warranty, but again, it still needed a split down.
-
Finally I be able to remove the DAMPER CAM nut, I did fabricate the tool to hold it and use a impact gun, in the following pictures you will se the damper cam in place with the nut already removed and in the second one you will se the bearing behind damper cam and you will be able to see the steel balls damage
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150410.jpg)
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150411.jpg)
-
Pretty obvious what caused that bearing to fail. ::)
You used it too much when it was new. ;D
Bummer Dude. Glad you found it.
-
Pretty obvious what caused that bearing to fail. ::)
You used it too much when it was new. ;D
Bummer Dude. Glad you found it.
I asked my self the same question many times but can't find the answer, bike has 52000 miles, I bought it from my nephew with 6500 miles and since that I did all the required maintenance include oil change and filter using synthetic oil initially using MOTUL STER and after MOBIL ONE, riding it to work during week days 48 miles daily
-
Tough to tell from the parts diagrams but it looks like that should be internally lubricated by crankcase oil (motor oil). ?? Everything under that engine side cover should be lubed internally. ?
It looks like that shaft is retained by a locking ball from the top, inside and behind that bearing. Any chance of removing the shaft with the engine cases still together?
Notice how I refrained from a whole series of 'Easy Boys!' in everything above, out of respect for this poor gentleman's plight.
The good news is that it looks like your problem may very well be limted to that one bearing, not that that will make getting it out and a new one in easier. At least it does not look expensive, other than labor.
Brian
I asked my self the same question many times but can't find the answer, bike has 52000 miles, I bought it from my nephew with 6500 miles and since that I did all the required maintenance include oil change and filter using synthetic oil initially using MOTUL STER and after MOBIL ONE, riding it to work during week days 48 miles daily
-
I asked my self the same question many times but can't find the answer, bike has 52000 miles, I bought it from my nephew with 6500 miles and since that I did all the required maintenance include oil change and filter using synthetic oil initially using MOTUL STER and after MOBIL ONE, riding it to work during week days 48 miles daily
Probably nothing you did. Perhaps your nephew let it run low on oil or used some horribly inappropriate oil or didn't change it appropriately early in life causing stress that showed up later? Maybe it was just bad luck with a single ball manufacturing flaw leading to later failure failure which started messing up the others. You might never know. Sometimes it is amazing things last as long as they do.
-
I asked my self the same question many times but can't find the answer, bike has 52000 miles, I bought it from my nephew with 6500 miles and since that I did all the required maintenance include oil change and filter using synthetic oil initially using MOTUL STER and after MOBIL ONE, riding it to work during week days 48 miles daily
I would say the only way that bearing got cooked was from a substantial loss of oil while running- probably a story your nephew would know but never tell. Maybe the filter got holed or wasn't installed right.
-
Tough to tell from the parts diagrams but it looks like that should be internally lubricated by crankcase oil (motor oil). ?? Everything under that engine side cover should be lubed internally. ?
It looks like that shaft is retained by a locking ball from the top, inside and behind that bearing. Any chance of removing the shaft with the engine cases still together?
Notice how I refrained from a whole series of 'Easy Boys!' in everything above, out of respect for this poor gentleman's plight.
The good news is that it looks like your problem may very well be limted to that one bearing, not that that will make getting it out and a new one in easier. At least it does not look expensive, other than labor.
Brian
Brian, that is correct, it is internally lubricated by crankcase motor oil, the only way to remove that bearing is splitting the engine apart , bearing is hold in place by two engine half ,that bearing cost around $57.00 and the other one at the other end that is a needle bearing is $23.00, one of the most expensive parts is the liquid gasket to seal the two engine half and almost the same price of the big bearing,, total between gaskets bearings and new oil and filter will be expending around $300.00, I wondering how much will be the cost if you have to pay for that job at the dealer
-
Probably nothing you did. Perhaps your nephew let it run low on oil or used some horribly inappropriate oil or didn't change it appropriately early in life causing stress that showed up later? Maybe it was just bad luck with a single ball manufacturing flaw leading to later failure failure which started messing up the others. You might never know. Sometimes it is amazing things last as long as they do.
Maybe it was just bad luck
-
OK, then the really huge question is what happened to that oil supply? That shaft was lacking oil for a long time, perhaps since new, and the corrosion was not due to any single loss of oil but a chronic lack of oil. Makes me think something is amiss or perhaps even missing internally. Are there oil pipes in the top of the crankcase half to direct oil to the various shafts and bearings? If so, could one be missing, crimped closed or bent so it is not putting oil onto that shaft?
Just a thought but you may want to track down how that transmission is lubricated in the first place and look for flaws in that system or this problem will repeat itself I believe.
Brian
Brian, that is correct, it is internally lubricated by crankcase motor oil....
<snip>
-
Flood bike?
-
Did you look at the procedure for pulling that bearing before you compeletly tore the bike down?
I just "glanced" at the FSM, and it appears that bearing can be pulled from the exterior, after removing the bearing retainer plate and the 3screws that hold it on... or maybe I'm missing sumpin here.
Wow, looking a second time, the 2 pages showing this offer zero explanation as to that shaft removal... 9-11 & 9-12
Seeing as those pieces live below the split line, but you still gotta pull the other tranny shaft and shift mech out prior... doesn't look fun.
I surely would not have disassembled my engine outdoors for this job....
-
OK, then the really huge question is what happened to that oil supply? That shaft was lacking oil for a long time, perhaps since new, and the corrosion was not due to any single loss of oil but a chronic lack of oil. Makes me think something is amiss or perhaps even missing internally. Are there oil pipes in the top of the crankcase half to direct oil to the various shafts and bearings? If so, could one be missing, crimped closed or bent so it is not putting oil onto that shaft?
Just a thought but you may want to track down how that transmission is lubricated in the first place and look for flaws in that system or this problem will repeat itself I believe.
Brian
Brian, I will find it out when I split the engine apart, here is a diagram of the oil flow and you will see that there is a passage that lubricate the output shaft
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/801820/Kawasaki-Concours-14-Abs.html?term=engine+lubrication&selected=3&page=334# (http://www.manualslib.com/manual/801820/Kawasaki-Concours-14-Abs.html?term=engine+lubrication&selected=3&page=334#)
-
Did you look at the procedure for pulling that bearing before you compeletly tore the bike down?
I just "glanced" at the FSM, and it appears that bearing can be pulled from the exterior, after removing the bearing retainer plate and the 3screws that hold it on... or maybe I'm missing sumpin here.
Wow, looking a second time, the 2 pages showing this offer zero explanation as to that shaft removal... 9-11 & 9-12
Seeing as those pieces live below the split line, but you still gotta pull the other tranny shaft and shift mech out prior... doesn't look fun.
I surely would not have disassembled my engine outdoors for this job....
As you can see in the page that I will post at the bottom, the first picture shows the place where the output shaft goes at and there is a pin that fit in a grove that the bearing has , in top of that that bearing goes in the middle of the two halves so there is no way to pull it out until the engine halves been separated
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/801820/Kawasaki-Concours-14-Abs.html?page=401#manual (http://www.manualslib.com/manual/801820/Kawasaki-Concours-14-Abs.html?page=401#manual)
-
Yep, you are right. And yours must be plugged in some way, perhaps defective from new? If that proves to be the case, you may want to address that issue with Kawasaki- I do not believe they are legally responsible (but I am not a lawyer), although clearly there is a lack of oil in your port (Easy Boys!- there, I said it!) and if it was due to manufacturing defect(s), they may take a bit of pity on you; after all, that is one nasty fix, labor- wise.
Brian
Brian, I will find it out when I split the engine apart, here is a diagram of the oil flow and you will see that there is a passage that lubricate the output shaft
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/801820/Kawasaki-Concours-14-Abs.html?term=engine+lubrication&selected=3&page=334# (http://www.manualslib.com/manual/801820/Kawasaki-Concours-14-Abs.html?term=engine+lubrication&selected=3&page=334#)
-
Ok I am back, last weekend did not work on bike because was out of town, finally be able to pull engine down and split it apart, here I have some pictures
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150421.jpg)(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150425.jpg)
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150415.jpg)(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150416.jpg)
-
And here I recorded a video of the faulty guy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBxgqVOLnsM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBxgqVOLnsM)
-
A bearing of lost hope. No help for it. How long did it take you do get the engine to that state of disassembly? tp
-
How long did it take you do get the engine to that state of disassembly? tp
It is one scary looking thing! I can't imagine.
-
I would have traded the bike for another 14. I would mention the sound to the dealer, but you know they would do nothing but place it on the lot as is, after deducting xx amount off trade in price... Saw it happen where I worked before. Caveat Emptor.... tp
-
It is one scary looking thing! I can't imagine.
totally agree with you
-
I would have traded the bike for another 14. I would mention the sound to the dealer, but you know they would do nothin
g but place it on the lot as is, after deducting xx amount off trade in price... Saw it happen where I worked before. Caveat Emptor.... tp
i tough to do that but finally decided to repair it myself, this is something that i enjoy doing it
-
i tough to do that but finally decided to repair it myself, this is something that i enjoy duing it
Used to rebuild 2 and 4 stroke singles from race bikes 40++ years ago, but serious work on any motor vehicle is no longer a fun time for me. Hope you have a great time and took lots of notes and videos of the tear down. Simply run the videos backwards and it will be a snap to complete, right???
-
Used to rebuild 2 and 4 stroke singles from race bikes 40++ years ago, but serious work on any motor vehicle is no longer a fun time for me. Hope you have a great time and took lots of notes and videos of the tear down. Simply run the videos backwards and it will be a snap to complete, right???
Been working as auto mechanic for the last 28 years on this country, is the first time I have to tear apart a motorcycle at this level and this kind of work will doing it for myself only, and once and never will be doing it again, have to take lot of pictures in case I need when putting it back together,
-
This is the list of the parts $250.68 plus oil and filter $60.00 for a total of $310.00 , now how much you think the dealer will charge for this job?
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/img_0012.jpg)
-
This is the list of the parts $250.68 plus oil and filter $60.00 for a total of $310.00 , now how much you think the dealer will charge for this job?
I don't think even an experienced Kawi dealer tech could do this job in less than a week could he?
What's that, 40 hours at $80/hr?
-
I don't think even an experienced Kawi dealer tech could do this job in less than a week could he?
What's that, 40 hours at $80/hr?
Around here the Stealerships charge $110.00-$135.00/hr plus shop supplies. :yikes: :yikes:
-
Yep, you are right. And yours must be plugged in some way, perhaps defective from new? If that proves to be the case, you may want to address that issue with Kawasaki- I do not believe they are legally responsible (but I am not a lawyer), although clearly there is a lack of oil in your port (Easy Boys!- there, I said it!) and if it was due to manufacturing defect(s), they may take a bit of pity on you; after all, that is one nasty fix, labor- wise.
Brian
Brian, I inspected the oil passage and the way it is designed it brings good oil flow for the output shaft needle bearing but not for the ball bearing that is the one that fail in this case, in the picture you can appreciate the grove in the lower case, it is the passage that goes first to the small needle bearing, then inside the output shaft but that shaft does not have a hole by the big ball bearing that bring a constant oil flow to that so what I think is that I have to have one of those bad bearings
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150426.jpg)
-
Found something interesting, i removed the basket that keep the steel balls apart on the guilty bearing that is a dual row bearing and the inner row of steel balls ( facing the inside of transmission) are perfect, and the outer row ( facing the bevel gears case) are all damaged , I have some pictures
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150428.jpg) this is de outer row
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150427.jpg) this is the inner row
-
Did some of your balls go missing?
-
Did some of your balls go missing?
Naw, I think they just got torn up. ???
-
Did some of your balls go missing?
The baskets indicate there should be 8 balls in each bearing track. The outer (top pic) appears to have 10 balls and the inner (lower pic) has 8. But I think it is an optical illusion- two in the first photo (3 o'clock and 6 o'clock) are probably on the track behind and it is just hard to tell from the angle.
-
I believe all the balls are there (Easy Boys) because it is not possible to dissemble a deep groove (the "regular" type) of ball bearing without using force or temp. differential. What you have suffered there is a cage failure; the cage was damaged and began to rub on the balls and / or the race(s). Then the cage got hot and deformed more. Then it rubbed more.... and so forth. Eventually the very light sheet metal cage is destroyed while the balls and races are relatively intact due to their must more robust construction. That said, the races and balls are always damaged to a degree, and having the balls rub up against each drastically decreases the load carrying capacity of the entire bearing as well as creating undue and excessive friction by the balls actually contacting each other; they actually contact at 2 times the ball surface speed (each ball is turning the same RPM but where they contact they are going in opposite directions, hence twice the surface speed). The bearings have suffered a catastrophic failure, most likely due to insufficient lubricant- I say this based on the earlier pictures of the corroded shaft that those bearings supported, clearly indicating insufficient lube.
It does look like you could be missing one ball though- check the number of balls in the new bearings and make sure they are all there in the old bearing ass'ys. If not, I strongly suggest you find the missing ball(s) and recover it (them) before reassembling the engine cases.
Great news though, there are no big pieces of the bearing anywhere outside the bearing, and it sounds as though even the small pieces of ball cage (Easy!) fell toward the outside rather than the inside of the engine. Finally, even if they did fall internally (Boys!), they will simply go into the oil pan from that location and stay there or in the sump screen for all eternity. Other than the obvious labor to replace those bearings, which is a great amount of course, you dodged the bullet of shrapnel from the bearings damaging the transmission and possible even the engine.
Brian
Found something interesting, i removed the basket that keep the steel balls apart on the guilty bearing that is a dual row bearing and the inner row of steel balls ( facing the inside of transmission) are perfect, and the outer row ( facing the bevel gears case) are all damaged , I have some pictures
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150428.jpg) this is de outer row
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150427.jpg) this is the inner row
-
There are no missing ball at all, 8 ball for each row, I did remove the baskets to be able to appreciate the difference between both rows include the races, here is a picture with the basket back in place
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150429.jpg)
-
Update?
Did you get it fixed?
-
Update?
Did you get it fixed?
i specting to receive the parts today, will update after finish it
thanks
-
Brian, I inspected the oil passage and the way it is designed it brings good oil flow for the output shaft needle bearing but not for the ball bearing that is the one that fail in this case, in the picture you can appreciate the grove in the lower case, it is the passage that goes first to the small needle bearing, then inside the output shaft but that shaft does not have a hole by the big ball bearing that bring a constant oil flow to that so what I think is that I have to have one of those bad bearings
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150426.jpg)
Interesting that there is no oil source for these bearings. As high up on the engine case that this sits, there is no way it's going to get oiled by what's sitting in the sump. Are you sure there is not a currently hidden port for oil to this? What about your output shaft? I'm wondering if it possibly missed a step where that oil port was not drilled?? It seems to me that an un-lubricated bearing, especially one that carries the full engine output, is a failure waiting to happen. Since there are many high-mileage C14's out there and this doesn't seem to be a common problem at all, there must be something different about yours.
I'd hate to see you get this thing all put back together and on the road only to have the problem recur shortly.
Anyone else had the transmission output shaft out (or have one lying around in a junk box) that can verify there is no oil outlet at the shaft output side?
-
In that picture that is the lower engine case you can see that grove that goes from the cranck shaft main beating to the output shaft , that is the lubrication passage and it was completely free , no obstruction at all ,and there are some other bearings that are more far away and are the front bevel gears and those are perfectly, also if that is the case , I hope this one last for other 52kand before that I will be riding some thing different
-
Just tossing this out, because I don't know, but my 08, in first gear, has a rotating sound, kinda sounds like waa, waa, waa, that speeds up with acceleration, and is then no longer noticeable after I shift into 2nd. It's done it since I bought the bike 14 months ago, and nothing has changed, sound wise. I've put over 6K miles on it, and have always wondered if this is normal. I read before purchasing, that grinding noises in first gear were normal, and to ignore. Seems to lessen as the drive train warms. I normally short shift out of first, just in case, but so far no problems.
Am I ok, or is this something to be concerned about, down the road? Extended warranty is out, and truthfully, I am not going to split the cases. Just wondering if this is normal/ok to live with....tomp
FWIW, bought it at 20K miles and now at 26+K mile. Regular O/F changes w synthetic. tp
-
Sounds like the torque converter is going out. My Trans am does that too. 8)
Probably just some gear whine that's harmless.
-
Sounds like the torque converter is going out. My Trans am does that too. 8)
Probably just some gear whine that's harmless.
Thanks, probably correct on the gear noise. Looked for the trans dip stick to make sure the fluid wasn't burned, but couldn't find it. Leave it to KHI to hide the damn thing. Wonder it the TC from an old MOPAR TorqueFlite will fit? Those were some tough transmissions, tied to 440 6 packs and 426 Hemi's, back in the day.
-
Received parts on last Monday and today after installing new output shaft bearings, put the engine half back together and have the engine back on her, with no oil pan on it an with the help of a motorcycle jack was very easy to install the engine back on the frame
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/engine12.jpg)
-
Perhaps easy for you, but looking at the pics you've posted, especially the last one, raises my blood pressure over the frustration of ever having to do that to any bike. I'm OK with a Briggs and Stratton mower engine today, but that rebuild is more complicated than the Ford and Chevy engines I did 45-50 years. My, how things have changed. Post a completed pic and video showing no more of the noise the first video showed.
Congrats on a job well done, sir... tomp
-
Perhaps easy for you, but looking at the pics you've posted, especially the last one, raises my blood pressure over of the frustration of ever having to do that to any bike. I'm OK with a Briggs and Stratton mower engine today, but that rebuild is more complicated than the Ford and Chevy engines I did 45-50 years. My, how things have changed. Post a completed pic and video showing no more of the noise the first video showed.
Congrats on a job well done, sir... tomp
I will, thanks
-
Perhaps easy for you, but looking at the pics you've posted, especially the last one, raises my blood pressure over the frustration of ever having to do that to any bike. I'm OK with a Briggs and Stratton mower engine today, but that rebuild is more complicated than the Ford and Chevy engines I did 45-50 years. My, how things have changed. Post a completed pic and video showing no more of the noise the first video showed.
Congrats on a job well done, sir... tomp
While I certainly wouldn't suggest an engine removal and teardown as a first repair project, a job like this really ends up being a relatively long sequence of relatively simple steps. What I like about the DIY job is that you know that no corners were cut, no bolts were improperly torqued, no gaskets were re-used, no pieces were left behind. In other words, you have confidence in a job done right!
I think for most people the biggest hurdle is tools. Having the right tools makes all the difference. I generally view buying tools as an investment that does pay dividends. Say you are looking at a $500 repair at the dealer service department but you don't have the tools. I'd rather spend the $500 on tools that I get to keep and reuse than pay them to use their tools. So this job ends up costing you the same money but the next job that needs those tools is a lot cheaper. Plus you've developed your service skills in the process. Start small and work your way up as needed. Most of the so-called mechanics at dealers are there because they couldn't get a better job elsewhere. Not exactly confidence inspiring in my opinion. I know there are exceptions and exceptional dealer service departments, but they sure seem to be few and very far between.
-
since I own this bike for 4 years and during that time I rode it for 46k miles (bought it with 6k from my nephew)I took it to the dealer only to program a extra FOB key and for the brake pedal recall and for a TPMS sensor under factory warranty, I performed all the maintenance required , mounting tires etc,i work on cars for living and do not use to do any side jobs out of my work place, working on my bike is something that enjoy, but this kind of job is something that will do only once, and about to do everything as should be like to put everything back in the same place and torque every single bolt as per specifications is true, hard to find some body how do it, about tools I have most of the tools required to perform any job and if there is a special tool needed I try not to buy it because for only one time use I prefer to save that money and fabricate the tool, for example the one to hold the SUB CLUTCH HUB that have to be torqued at 100 ft.lb and the one to hold the DAMPER CAM on the front bevel gears at 140 ft,lb
Here are pictures of those
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/tools10.jpg) (http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/clutch14.jpg)
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/tool12.jpg)
-
Perhaps easy for you, but looking at the pics you've posted, especially the last one, raises my blood pressure over the frustration of ever having to do that to any bike. I'm OK with a Briggs and Stratton mower engine today, but that rebuild is more complicated than the Ford and Chevy engines I did 45-50 years. My, how things have changed. Post a completed pic and video showing no more of the noise the first video showed.
Congrats on a job well done, sir... tomp
Ok here are the before and after videos
BEFORE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL8YJJaf1i0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL8YJJaf1i0)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6cIa0Rslsk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6cIa0Rslsk)
AFTER
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtRvDifhoGY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtRvDifhoGY)
-
No more rocks! :chugbeer:
-
YA DONE GOOD, SIR. . .
-
We appreciate the detail that you've shared with us throughout this ordeal.
-
Much better! :chugbeer:
-
After one month and twenty days finally I finished yesterday and be able to ride it, everything come out perfect, while she was apart waiting for parts I did some paint job on the tank due to rust around the filler neck, mirror covers, left side firing and left bag cover
Here are the pictures
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150510.jpg)(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150511.jpg)
Also installed the APE cam chain manual tensioner ( it was an other noise that bother me at cold star )
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150530.jpg)
And here is she ready to ride
(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150528.jpg)(http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/22/83/92/20150525.jpg)
-
Looking all pretty!
-
Ok here are the before and after videos
BEFORE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL8YJJaf1i0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL8YJJaf1i0)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6cIa0Rslsk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6cIa0Rslsk)
AFTER
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtRvDifhoGY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtRvDifhoGY)
Sounds so much better. Looking nice a crisp with the new paint.
Like your ingenuity with the tool construction. Old clutch disk and a old rear shock adjuster 8) .
I'd be nervous doing a complete tear down like this. I'd have to get the camcorder out and a pile of disks for the rebuild. Memory is quite as good as it use to be. The forgetting part of my brain is working pretty good though.
Cheers
-
Thanks