Under 3500 miles per oil change. I just feel more comfortable with fresh oil. If I were to use the Mobil 1 4T I would stretch it to 5000 miles.

Well, I am glad I don't have to worry about notchy shifting. I have used Rotella T Synth for all of  C14's 64,000 miles except two changes. I have never noticed anything but smooth shifting except for the time I forgot to tighten the shift linkage lock nut.

Well, I am glad I don't have to worry about notchy shifting. I have used Rotella T Synth for all of  C14's 64,000 miles except two changes. I have never noticed anything but smooth shifting except for the time I forgot to tighten the shift linkage lock nut.

I'm sensing a pattern, here..

I'm sensing a pattern, here..

There certainly WAS a pattern... but I have corrected it. I now double check all fasteners regularly and use locktite. Nothing has fallen off in months.

Well, I am glad I don't have to worry about notchy shifting. I have used Rotella T Synth for all of  C14's 64,000 miles except two changes. I have never noticed anything but smooth shifting except for the time I forgot to tighten the shift linkage lock nut.

Oh my, that may cause your drive shaft to fall off too

There certainly WAS a pattern... but I have corrected it. I now double check all fasteners regularly and use locktite. Nothing has fallen off in months.

 

I am not sure who is right or who is wrong.

Gee, here's a thought:  Check the manufacturer's specifications and recommendations! 

Yep.

I have "NEVER" repeat "NEVER" heard of a single instance of engine damage or premature wear of anykind from using a 5W40 weight oil in a motorcycle. Matter of fact the 5W40 Rotella is the most popular choice for many of us that own thumpers, talk about an engine that works hard and gets abused. Do whatever makes you happy and gives you sweet dreams at night, paranoia will destroy ya.

^^^ that for a gravedig 

And when we drag raced the Zx14's we purposely used zero weight oil and from cold start to redline. That is no secret and  never been a prob.

And my track bikes all ran 5W, and my C14 has been running 5W since 58,000 miles ago (but KiPass protects it so not good input to the topic heh)

And of course, no one has ever heard of a race engine taking damage or blowing up.

And of course, no one has ever heard of a race engine taking damage or blowing up.

But we haven't heard of a motor "blowing up" due to 5W or 0W oil, or have you?  I'd be interested in the motorcycle that did. Race or street.

OIL THREADS!!!!! AAAAAHHHHH!!!

And of course, no one has ever heard of a race engine taking damage or blowing up.

Doubt it rarely if ever has much to do with what oil is being used if and when they do.

But we haven't heard of a motor "blowing up" due to 5W or 0W oil, or have you?  I'd be interested in the motorcycle that did. Race or street.

Most racing oils I see are 10W30.......but oh it is much too thin and will shear down to a 20 weight in no time.   "sarcasm"

My one experiment with Mobil-1 5w40 in a motorcycle seemed to make it run like a bat out of hell, but got noticeably hotter, and shift feel got harsh real quick.    No problem, I was trading it in anyway. 

Just a thought as I am not qualified in any way to comment on oil performance (maybe some here are, I don't know).
When we start out with a cold motor, shifting into first always feels like a jackhammer! Right? My guess is that clutch plates are sticking together somewhat more than a hot motor oil would do. Also we are usually still in high idle mode which makes it worse no doubt.

I think that oil manufacturers formulate their oil intended for automotive use to cling or retain a film to all surfaces to lessen wear effects caused by initial start-up (where most wear occurs). Good so far (at least for dry clutches).
But this same clinging effect will also tend to bridge clutch plates somewhat like a torque converter especially when temps are low and viscosity higher.

It seems logical to guess that the higher the oil viscosity at any given time, the more drag on disengaged clutch plates = notchier shifting.

This can be seen when shifting very quickly as opposed to lazy shifts (quick shifts occur more smoothly because the dogs are still in alignment because the drag from oil/clutch plates has not rotated the primary or drive shaft out of alignment.

So....to summarize this hypothesis, the clingability of auto oils is good for everything BUT wet clutches. Possibly why low viscosity multi-grades MIGHT be a better alternative  for engines that  use their crankcase oil to also lube their clutch (and tranny to a lesser extent).

A way around all this? Preload the shift lever and shift quickly.

Fretka .

I usually pull in the clutch when starting the engine, for safety and also to break the clutch plates loose, making that first shift into gear less of a lurch.