I am looking into adding the following farkles pretty soon:

Aux lights
Heated grips
Trunk (with additional lighting in the future)

My issue is figuring out which Accessory block to get. I am torn between:

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_92&products_id=144

or

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=436

If you have installed one of these, I'd like to know where you placed the unit and a picture of the wiring to the battery if possible. I will also be the first one to say that I am electrically challenged. I haven't fully grasped the ins and outs of wiring etc so any tips and pointers you can offer would be appreciated.

Gee thanks........forgot about the other one (not the FZ-1).  Now I have a choice to make for my KLR too.

I got the first one. I am at work and have no pics right now, but it is installed on the left side. I didn't see any pics on my photobucket account. I may have some at home but I don't think so. If I get a chance I will take some later.

I have the first one as well.  This fits behind the side panel (btw, I recommend getting thumbscrews for your side panels if you don't have them already.  Murphs sells them or you may find some locally), and is close to the existing fuse block and battery.

Hooking it up is a piece of cake.  One wire hooks to the battery, the second wire is close by as well, and the 'switched' power source is designed to hook between the rear brake pedal wire connectors.  As the rear brake circuit goes live when the key is turned on, this makes it an ideal place to 'read' when the key is turned on.  Again, easy peasy to install.

Running your power from this box to your accessories will follow similar routes to existing wiring from the existing fuse box.  And, as this is located next to the existing fuse box, it keeps all of your fuses in one place on the bike.

I currently have both my grip heaters and my auxiliary lights (now broken off) wired from this fuse block.  I personally used SJOO wiring for these (I have a spool of it for other purposes), as the black sheath hides itself well, and blends with the existing wire harnesses, brake lines, etc. 

My switches for both the aux lights and grip heaters are strapped to the inside of the handlebar 'posts', and nicely shrink wrapped/zip tied, although others often choose an upper fairing location (opposite of the clock or wherever).

Like others here I made my own. Admittedly, I may have "borrowed" the design after seeing others posts. Also, I enjoy the electrical stuff and am quite at home with it. Any of Murphs products won't steer you wrong.

I wasted a lot of money on a $30 Blue Sea unit from the boat store, when I could have done the same thing with a $10 unit from Napa, which is 1/3 the size.  (Which is what I put on the Wee-Strom.)  Whichever one you use, the right side of the battery box is an excellent location and easy to mount to.

pic attached

Iff'n you're gonna put the real cruise control(Audiovox from Murphs") on the bike, find another spot for the board, I mounted mine to the fender behind the battery. Also, there is a wire coming out of the Jbox that goes live with the headlight, this way your board will not be powered until the bike is running, normally. It could also prevent low voltage issues while cranking that can burn relay contacts or cook electronics, maybe. Try to use a main relay larger than 30 amps, mine is rated at 40, got it at one of those sleazy auto parts stores.

Take your time, and ask questions and/or offer free beer and/or lunch for help. You just may find a taker. Or... host a tech session.

I have the 2nd one behind my left side panel. Fit nice and made accessory wiring simple.

Should I be able to find the components that I need to build my own fuse block at one of the major auto parts places? (Seems as though I looked before but didn't see what I thought I needed)  I'm not opposed to just buying one from Murph but I generally get more satisfaction out of making something myself.....although the end result may not look as pretty.  I don't mind saving a buck or two either and I enjoy doing the work.  Anybody got an idea of the cost comparison between making one and paying $60-$80 for one from Murph?  I would probably have to buy most of the wire and connectors for the project also since I only have minimal amounts of stuff left over from previous work.  Any opinions?  Sorry for the slight hi-jack.

Like others here I made my own. Admittedly, I may have "borrowed" the design after seeing others posts. Also, I enjoy the electrical stuff and am quite at home with it. Any of Murphs products won't steer you wrong.

Dang that looks good, bbroj.  I might have to hire you for a weekend project.......  

Cheers
Ron

Should I be able to find the components that I need to build my own fuse block at one of the major auto parts places? (Seems as though I looked before but didn't see what I thought I needed)  I'm not opposed to just buying one from Murph but I generally get more satisfaction out of making something myself.....although the end result may not look as pretty.  I don't mind saving a buck or two either and I enjoy doing the work.  Anybody got an idea of the cost comparison between making one and paying $60-$80 for one from Murph?  I would probably have to buy most of the wire and connectors for the project also since I only have minimal amounts of stuff left over from previous work.  Any opinions?  Sorry for the slight hi-jack.

Absolutely no reason not to roll your own.... While I love Murph like a brother who I owe money to; he will be the first to tell you that he does not have an exclusive on everything Concours; does he not "GIVE" you the wheel bearing numbers on his site so that you can go find your own at the local Motion Industries? But he will sell you a high quality kit at a reasonable price that includes everything you will need except for the beer. Given that mouthful I think I bought my fuse panel at www.electricalconnection.com to which I used a 12 VDC Auto-Reset Circuit Breaker in place of a main fuse along with a heavy duty relay found in the junk drawer.

Looks like any of the 2 fuse blocks (or something similar) may be the way to go. I may have to end up hosting a tech day to learn how to do all this as I intend on doing the same thing on my v-strom. Thank you all for your responses!

Dang that looks good, bbroj.  I might have to hire you for a weekend project.......  

Cheers
Ron

Thanks! After this weekend I should know if we will soon be neighbors, if so I'll be looking to meet local COGgers and what better way than tinkering on the bike! I don't remember the cost of the individual pieces, but it wasn't bad, maybe 25 or 30 bucks? The mounting plate is just a piece of clear plastic (lexax, whatever) I had laying around the garage. I bought the fuse block, wire and relay from the local auto parts store (Advance), but the ground strip and straps (sold seperately, of course) came from Radio Shack. The connectors I already had as I do electrical stuff pretty routinely.

I need this upgrade.  Thanks for the post.

Timely thread for me. I was just going to pull the trigger on one from Murph. I have the one I had made for my older Connie. I think I will just redo it a little more fancy. How heavier of wire should I use to feed the block from the relay and to feed the relay from the bat. Thanks.

The red wires in the pics in my post above are 8ga. For those sharp enough to pick up on it, yes, those are yellowcrimp connectors rated for 10-12ga. I got the wires in the connectors without cutting any conductors and they crimped solidly. I used yellow 'cause it's what I had on hand.

I just have a 6 circuit napa fuse block on the left side, with a 40A giant masterfuse inline with 8ga wire.  I also used the 10/12 ends.  Some stuff I wanted hot all the time and some stuff to come on with ignition so I just relayed as appropriate.

I just have a 6 circuit napa fuse block on the left side, with a 40A giant masterfuse inline with 8ga wire.  I also used the 10/12 ends.  Some stuff I wanted hot all the time and some stuff to come on with ignition so I just relayed as appropriate.

My block is 6 circuit from Napa. How do you make some switched and some hot all the time? I had mine wired so it received power via a relay. I would like to have one hot for a lighter socket. Could just go an inline fuse of the bat or another hot I guess.

After rereading I am thinking you have the block hot all the time via the large fuse and you relay components that come off it as needed?
Wayne

My fuse block is hot only with the ignition via relay. The stuff I want hot all the time is limited, so I just used the bikes 2 sets of accessory leads for those items.