This is not going as smoothly as I had hoped
I hooked up my Motion Pro ProSync syncronization tool to calibrate it, carefully following the instructions. I immediately noticed the adjustment screws would not turn smoothly at all. When I fired up the engine and attemped to calibrate I got these gaps.
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After following the instructions for getting rid of the gaps I have many more gaps.
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I think this tool is junk. I will see if I can get a better one quickly. Any suggestions? I recall someone else used a Carb Tune.
did ya ever see me post my preferance for synch tools..?Thanks for the kind offer MOB. I would like to take you up but I am unclear how to use it for theC14 since the first step in the manual calls for comparing all 4 cylindars:
google the TwinMax....
and sell that p.o.s on ebay.
just saying.....
send me your adress, and I'll send you mine to use.....and if you don't send it back, I'll hunt you down....
but, when you use it, and see how it works, you have to spread the word....
open deal...
I cannot comment on the quality of the tool but the easiest way I know of to get rid of the voids (really air bubbles) in tubing is to blow <gently> into each tube until all the fluid is forced to the bottom reservoir. When you stop blowing and the fluid rises again, it will do so in a solid 'bar' and without any air bubbles. Do one tube at a time. It should only take about 5 seconds each tube.I have tried tapping, swinging and obscene verbal threats with NO result. Gentle blowing does slowly give slight improvement but its not gonna work in my lifetime.
This same method works for mercury manometers also and they too tend to get air bubbles caught in them. And it is very safe as there is no possibility of ingesting any mercury, or even the anti- freeze in your gauge.
I cannot believe Haroldo has not been by this thread yet. I sure hope he is reading it though....
Brian
My Motion Pro sync tool. I had the same problem, and bought the small refill kit for about $5-6. It is easy enough to refill when you follow the directions.I tried blowing again after removing the restrictors. with about 20 minutes alternately blowing and sucking I managed to get the fluid back into the resorvoirs. I then proceeded to calibrate again after replacing the restrictors. This time I was able to calibrate succesfully with the engine idling although to get the colums level I ended up with the fluid near the top. And when I turned off the engine the fluid freaked out and the gaps were back worse than ever. I am giving up on the Motion Pro.
Knowing it is just anti-freeze would have been a bit cheaper, but not much. You still need a small dropper to fill the resevoirs.
I do not believe that you will be able to shake, blow or suck the air bubbles out without disassembly. If you are careful, you may be able to back out the adjustment screws completely, gently pressurize the lines (ie blow) to move all the fluid to the resevoirs, level the resevoirs out with a few drops of anti-freeze, and reassemble. Try to keep the fluid out of the threads. Then sync the tool with the 4 lines T'eed up to a single vacuum source by adjusting the screws. The closer to the exact same volume of fluid in each resevoir, the wider the range of accuracy will be on the gauge.
I tried blowing again after removing the restrictors. with about 20 minutes alternately blowing and sucking I managed to get the fluid back into the resorvoirs. I then proceeded to calibrate again after replacing the restrictors. This time I was able to calibrate succesfully with the engine idling although to get the colums level I ended up with the fluid near the top. And when I turned off the engine the fluid freaked out and the gaps were back worse than ever. I am giving up on the Motion Pro.
More...
It looks like the hardest part of TB sync will be adjusting the center adjusting screw. So even tho I don't yet have a working manometer I tried to see if I could do it. Massively troublesome to get bothe the mirror and flashlight bith secured in a position I could see the screw and still have room for the 90o screwdriver. But I finally did it, turning the screw just enough to confirm the driver blade was seated. Guess what. The engine is now idling much smoother than before!
I am tempted to quit while I'm ahead.
Since I have three multicylindar bikes I might as well invest in a tool I will be happy with.
Looks like the Carbtune and TwinMax are both good (non fluid, hard to F' up) options although I don't fully understand how the Twin Max works and especially how it will get the job done on the C14 with the center adjusting procedure as spelled out in the manual.
As for the motion pro tool, when I turn the calibrating screws they feel very unsmooth. I suspect poor workmanship.
Cartoon tool?
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What have I gotten myself into
How do we know when the throttlebodies need syncing? Mine is at 39,000 miles. Is this one of those deals such as the plugs....book says do it and its a joke?
Mine ran strong in the desert as an ADV bike too. 108 degrees and at speeds of "idling". Maybe mine don't need syncing? This was last week:
It also ran strong at 12,000 feet in the sky. This was up there a week and a half ago:
Mine has a bit of a rough idle. I have had it die on me a few during low speed manouvers, once causing me to drop the bike. If I didn't have any issues I defintely would not try this.
So how did this turn out? Did you finish? Is the bike back together? ?THE SYNC is on hold. I ordered a Morgan Carbtune. I hope it will arrive in about a week! Today I picked up a nice big inspection mirror which should help. I may have figured out the main problem with the Motion Pro tool but I will wait on the Morgan since I have spent the $. Even if I can get the Motion Pro to work I would not trust its accuracy.
Brian
I was able to install the hoses from the left side without removing the tank or the valve cover. I used extra long needlenose pliers from harbor freight
Bill
Wild Bill,
Besides removing the left side panel, did you have to remove anything else? What did you use to make the adjustments? Did you have to use a mirror to see what you were doing? What size tubing did you use, and how do you cap them off when you are done with the sync process?
Thanks in advance
I was able to install the hoses from the left side without removing the tank or the valve cover. I used extra long needlenose pliers from harbor freight
Bill
Ooooh, I like those pliers. Could possibly be used to get those pesky nose hairs...