FWIW, I gave up on trying to use SAE tools on metric vehicles a long time ago. Personally, I would recommend buying a metric feeler gauge and micrometer. I still prefer mph and mpg, but the valve adjusts were much easier for me using metric info all the way through. As Brian said, you need to check all the measurements when you are done anyway. The question that often comes up is whether you want to set the specs at mid-range, or at the loose end of allowable. I went with mid-range, but the loose argument seemed reasonable to me.
Here is a pic of the label on my shim kit. Is this ok to use? Concours manual says not to use "...shims from another model..." THey are the same diameter, but I guess that doesn't mean much. I bought this from my local kawi dealer who said it was fine...that don't make it good either though, trust you guys more. If it's good, so far for cylinder 4, all the shims I need are in there. Advice appreciated.
Now this is some good reading right here. Thanks for sharing Will, & everyone else.
Ok final shim map posted to media directory.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=185;dl
Here are the results: 15 of 16 shims need a swap. I have everything except for 2.225mm. Need 7. I'll call kawi shop tonight to see if they have, if not perhaps some trades? I'll post in the shim swap thread tonight after I call bike shop.
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Personally I would keep the Bucket/ Tappet against the same lobe, so to keep any wear pattern in tact, .02c
Yeah, on engines with softer cams and followers such as older automotive types I would do the same thing. These cams and buckets are so hard though that it is unlikely they will establish a shape from wear.
Also, all engines with shim- over- bucket require that the cam follower itself (the shim on those engines) be changed to adjust lash and they did not seem to suffer from repeated cam follower changes. Changing or moving the buckets is effectively the same as changing the shims on the earlier type engines.
Brian
Yeah, on engines with softer cams and followers such as older automotive types I would do the same thing. These cams and buckets are so hard though that it is unlikely they will establish a shape from wear.
Also, all engines with shim- over- bucket require that the cam follower itself (the shim on those engines) be changed to adjust lash and they did not seem to suffer from repeated cam follower changes. Changing or moving the buckets is effectively the same as changing the shims on the earlier type engines.
Brian
Going through and doing this yourself, and being picky about the adjustment, you are going to get those clearances Spot On. Odds are if you had taken it in, not many shims would get changed if any, sad but true.
Since its your bike, and can spend the extra time to do it correctly, you will end up with much better results. By the time your done with your service that bike will run really smooth.
Personally I would keep the Bucket/ Tappet against the same lobe, so to keep any wear pattern in tact, .02c
I'm thinking its time for another horse in the stable though, for times Connie is down for maintenance...that 250 just ain't cuttin it. Maybe a used Ninja 650. Or a used VSTROM 650! Thats the ticket!I can help you with that! My C10 would look good next to the 250.
I can help you with that! My C10 would look good next to the 250.
Kawi shop in Manassas will swap shims with me for free. Sending my son to pick them up today, schedule permitting. If not, I'll get them Saturday. Went through my numbers again. I think I'm good. we'll see when I measure again.If you can get a needle-type torque wrench to fit, use it. At that point I used my finely-calibrated wrist/forearm to torque the last few. To calibrate, tighten some of the others by hand, then check with the tq wrench. Not perfect, but best I could do.
one question though on torque...there are either one or two bolts you just can't get a socket onto...how to torque them. Is a needle type torque wrench ok to use here?