Thank you for all the responses. I feel much better. I didn't burn any oil, so as someone pointed out the rings should be sealed. Also, the owner's manual does state that a semi or full synthetic may be used, but it doesn't state a miles recommendation, so I assume even at the first oil change I could have gone to full synthetic? Basically, I don't think my warranty is void.

Again, thanks a lot. I nearly had a stroke. Now I'm going to go and make love to the road with my bike

Frank

What kind of oil will you be using for that?

I guess he took up Steve's suggestion...

Also, the owner's manual does state that a semi or full synthetic may be used, but it doesn't state a miles recommendation, so I assume even at the first oil change I could have gone to full synthetic?

Exactly.  Some cars even come from the factory now with synthetic oil in the engine.  Again, I tend to follow the old-skool recommendations just to be safe but acknowledge that things have probably changed.

One would hope so, Max.

Exactly.  Some cars even come from the factory now with synthetic oil in the engine.  Again, I tend to follow the old-skool recommendations just to be safe but acknowledge that things have probably changed.

I'd disagree with that. Some cars do come with Mobil 1, but M1 is not really synthetic; it is a group III oil.
No car comes from the factory with a pao/ester oil.

 

What he said

Motul 5100 is very good oil and it even smells good. There is only one way to know how well your oil is doing and that is to have it analyzed. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Reports in their forum show C14 puts  fuel in the oil so they recommend oil changes based on that issue. Apparently  Kawasaki is using the same trick as Harley, when the bikes cylinders get hot it adds extra fuel to cool them off.

One time I went 10k miles on Amsoil in my C10 and it came back as still able to go another 2k.  I get the full metallurgy analysis done and  shearing was minimal. 
I have not done the C14 yet but I will change to Motul 5100 first and then get it tested. I find the bikes shift much better on Motul then with Amsoil.

Yep

If it quacks like a duck....

The primary differences between Full Synth and Semi Synth are longevity, cooling and cost.
The Full Synth will last up to 1/3 longer and will provide better oil cooling.
In terms of friction, there is very little difference between them and all that poop about not using Full Synth until broken in is,.... poop.
The main reason to not use it for the first 600 miles is cost. After that go with Full Synth if you like to waste money.
Me I run with Semi Synth because it's cheaper. I change oil at the prescribed intervals.
51,000 miles on her and the oil level drops from top mark to about halfway during that 7500 miles between oil changes.

Motul 5100 is very good oil and it even smells good. There is only one way to know how well your oil is doing and that is to have it analyzed. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Reports in their forum show C14 puts  fuel in the oil so they recommend oil changes based on that issue. Apparently  Kawasaki is using the same trick as Harley, when the bikes cylinders get hot it adds extra fuel to cool them off.

One time I went 10k miles on Amsoil in my C10 and it came back as still able to go another 2k.  I get the full metallurgy analysis done and  shearing was minimal. 
I have not done the C14 yet but I will change to Motul 5100 first and then get it tested. I find the bikes shift much better on Motul then with Amsoil.

I ran back to back Blackstone analyses on my 08 C14 at 6000 +/- 500 mile intervals with Rotella T Synth 5w40 and Motil 5100 15w50 and other than the viscosity the Rotella had the better results. Blackstone suggested increasing interval with Rotella but not with the Motul. I did not notice any difference in shifting.

ROTELLA:
"This first sample from your Concours is looking really good. Universal averages show typical
wear levels for this type of engine after about 3,000 miles on the oil. That fact that wear metals are looking
this good after almost twice as long on the oil as average shows an engine that is wearing very well. A little
fuel dilution was present, but that's not unusual in bikes, and 0.5% isn't cautionary. The viscosity was in the
5W/30 range. Fuel may have thinned it out a little. The TBN was strong at 6.2 showing lots of active additive
remaining. Try 8,000 miles on the next oil."

MOTUL:
"This second sample contained quite a bit of silicon, and wear increased more than expected
after the longer 6,542-mile oil change interval. The silicon could be abrasive dirt causing the extra wear, so
suggest checking the engine air filtration system for cracks or loose fittings. Lead was the only metal reading
far enough out of line to highlight, but that could be from a one- time particle streak through the bearings so
we'll look for improved lead next sample. The slightly low viscosity isn't a problem. The TBN was a strong
4.8. Stick with 6,500 miles next to monitor."

Great to know that fake synthetic diesel oil works so well. I ran 272 pretty spirited miles last Saturday, and my shifting was like butter. 

Great to know that fake synthetic diesel oil works so well. I ran 272 pretty spirited miles last Saturday, and my shifting was like butter. 

Doubt it. The high silicon level that is causing more wear didn't come from the Motul, unless they dump sand in it when the make it. I think the owner switched to a K&N or similar non oem air filter.

Doubt it. The high silicon level that is causing more wear didn't come from the Motul, unless they dump sand in it when the make it. I think the owner switched to a K&N or similar non oem air filter.

Nothing was changed except the oil and the area ridden. The K&N was already  there for the Rotella. I am not saying Motul is bad oil, I'm saying Rotella is plenty good oil and  for half the price of the Motul I am sticking with it. I DO wish they made it in 15w50.

>73,000 miles on mine running Rotella T6.

After 200,000 miles I might part my bike out on ebay and send Shell/Rotella a thank you note and also ask them to make me some rotors as awesome as their oil

I used to run this in prior bikes but Pokey said its junk 

Oil...
One of the winningest , is their such a word ?
Outboard drag racers uses  Amsoil transmission oil in place of gear oil in his lower unit...
So what does that mean ? I'm not sure ? but I just ran out of milk,  so I might try some  in my coffee ...

Oil...
One of the winningest , is their such a word ?
Outboard drag racers uses  Amsoil transmission oil in place of gear oil in his lower unit...
So what does that mean ? I'm not sure ? but I just ran out of milk,  so I might try some  in my coffee ...

What, WHITE coffee??  Next thing you know your'e gonna tell us you have a car tire on yer boat trailer

>73,000 miles on mine running Rotella T6.

After 200,000 miles I might part my bike out on ebay and send Shell/Rotella a thank you note and also ask them to make me some rotors as awesome as their oil

I used to run this in prior bikes but Pokey said its junk 

Hey Steve,
I stopped using Amsoil when the labelling changed from 100% Synthetic to what you see in these pictures (no more 100%) .
Come to find out there are two brands of Amsoil motorcycle oil, their lower priced  brand and they still make the 100% Synthetic brand which I dont see around much anymore.

>73,000 miles on mine running Rotella T6.

After 200,000 miles I might part my bike out on ebay and send Shell/Rotella a thank you note and also ask them to make me some rotors as awesome as their oil

I used to run this in prior bikes but Pokey said its junk 

Junk......junk I tell ya!!!!!! 

One of the problems  with Amsoil is some of their  dealers have had that chit sitting on the shelf for a VERY long time ,  rotate stock,  come on that is WORK , then Joe consumer comes in and buys seven year old oil and finds lumps in it
So who's falt is it?
Put a brand new top of the line tire on your car , truck whatever that is seven eight years old and cry as the tire rips apart
EVERYTHING has a shelf life.
Good Day jj