Come in altro Thread... ho scritto.. ,questo sistema d'accensione della moto lo devono buttare via in Kawasaki... altro difetto di detto meccanismo è che sono riuscito e senza transponder e senza premere su chiave accensione a fare partire il motore del GTR 1400 Kawasaki.


MGvalerio.

I aint skeered!!!!!

Neither am I , actually, and it just happened to me.

You guys who are chicken to take long distance rides for fear of KiPass issues better not drive, fly or cross the street either. Those could get you kilt, not just stranded.

What y'all are forgetting, is if the KiPass does fail, by passing the switch is easy. 

The LH panel on top of the fairing is very easy to remove & then you can easily unplug & plug the grey connector & activate the KiPass.  I done this on a number of times when my switch "stuck".  I even had to show the dealer which plug so they could move my bike around until they repaired the switch.

I wouldn't be afraid to take mine anywhere & I've had a KiPass failure. 

Any chance you could take a photo of the plug for the rest of us? You just unplug and replug and then are good to go?

Any chance you could take a photo of the plug for the rest of us? You just unplug and replug and then are good to go?

See this thread for pics and a remedy made by BDF.  http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=6976.msg82841#msg82841

If you had a Kipass switch failure you can unplug and then replug the gray connector on the left side (the connector is in the pics above) (the gauges should sweep just as if you pressed in the key while your switch was not malfunctioning) and you should be able to turn the key if you do it within 5 seconds. If you miss the 5 second window you will have to unplug and replug again.

If your bike is not starting for some other reason, this won’t work.

I had this "KIPASS" experience the first week I had the bike. On Sunday, stopped to fuel the bike and went to start up. Click....message "IMMOBILIZER ERROR", then nothing. Several tries  result in either "IMMOBILIZER ERROR" or nothing. After about 50 tries, give up, call the wife to bring the truck, load it up and take it home. At home, trying to decide to leave it loaded and take to dealer during the week, or take it off and check it out. Electrician in me can't stand it, so I unload it and push it in garage to check it out.  Pull the covers and pull out the battery, the negative post is finger loose and covered with white grease (good thing if it was tight). Tightened up and problem gone. No more problems since then.
But, this and reading all the posts make me leery. Check out spare fob key, works fine when placed in correct position. Bought a spare spare FOB and get it programmmed, works fine. To see if the big fob would work with a dead battery, I remove the battery and try it like the spare fob.

I get a "SUBKEY ID ERROR" which according to the shop manual means " The sub-key of the other motorcycle is used or the transponder is not registered"-action or remark- "Check that the serial numbers of the FOB key and KIPASS ECU are agreement".

 Don't understand why big FOB works in RF mode but fails using the chip only. Side note, Chip in big fob is in the plastic cover, not on the circuit board inside the FOB.

Just like my vehicles with regular keys, I keep a spare FOB with key secured on the bike to prevent stranding in case I were to get separated from my main FOB.

I had this "KIPASS" experience the first week I had the bike. On Sunday, stopped to fuel the bike and went to start up. Click....message "IMMOBILIZER ERROR", then nothing. Several tries  result in either "IMMOBILIZER ERROR" or nothing. After about 50 tries, give up, call the wife to bring the truck, load it up and take it home. At home, trying to decide to leave it loaded and take to dealer during the week, or take it off and check it out. Electrician in me can't stand it, so I unload it and push it in garage to check it out.  Pull the covers and pull out the battery, the negative post is finger loose and covered with white grease (good thing if it was tight). Tightened up and problem gone. No more problems since then.
But, this and reading all the posts make me leery. Check out spare fob key, works fine when placed in correct position. Bought a spare spare FOB and get it programmmed, works fine. To see if the big fob would work with a dead battery, I remove the battery and try it like the spare fob.

I get a "SUBKEY ID ERROR" which according to the shop manual means " The sub-key of the other motorcycle is used or the transponder is not registered"-action or remark- "Check that the serial numbers of the FOB key and KIPASS ECU are agreement".

 Don't understand why big FOB works in RF mode but fails using the chip only. Side note, Chip in big fob is in the plastic cover, not on the circuit board inside the FOB.

Just like my vehicles with regular keys, I keep a spare FOB with key secured on the bike to prevent stranding in case I were to get separated from my main FOB.

The first part of your problem with the "IMMOBILIZER ERROR" was not a issue with the stuck Kipass activation switch. If when you press in the key and the gauges sweep, the switch is ok. That's not to say that if the gauges do not sweep that it's the switch for sure, it may be or it may not be. But if the gauges do sweep, the switch is ok.

From what you're saying in the second part of your problem it sounds to me like when you had your bike programmed to 'see' the extra fob that you bought that the bike was not reprogrammed to 'see' the 'chip only' section of the larger fob. I think that your dealer screwed that part up.

See this attachment for more info. Look on page 3 and read the section on Key Fobs.

Conrad,
The loose battery connection was the culprit with the first incident and the "IMMOBILIZER ERROR". I read thru the service notice pdf ypu posted and figured out what else happened. I went back and checked my original spare  little fob and it too gives a "SUBKEY ERROR" like the big FOB with no battery.  The service bulletin specifically describes that when a FOB is added, all FOBs must be re-registered. It appears FOBs must be registered twice, once under the "Additional registration" and again under "Immobilizer Key Registration" along with all other FOBS big or small. The document gives the example of a new transmitting FOB programming, mine was a new spare non-transmitting FOB.  It says the first procedure registers the transmitter  function, the second registers the transponder function (chip). Any FOB not registered with the "Immobilizer Key Registration", will not function, like my spare and the original big fob without a battery. I will  get this straightened out this week.
Another note, if you buy a FOB, either kind, it is useless without the code number that comes with it from the factory

Thank you very much for taking the time to post the pdf bulletin. My dealer didn't even know that the little fob had a chip in it and it had to be programmed. One of the guys in the parts department asked why I paid $40 for a little key holder that didn't even come with a key. I'll take a print out in Tuesday so I can convince them to fix all my FOBs.

You're welcome RD, I hope that your dealer gets you fixed up.