Congrats on your new bike! Great write up. What kind of tire warranty is it that you purchased? Is it just a service plan for tires?
I bought a warranty through Zurich Direct that covers tire and rim damage. They put a new tire matching what you had mounted at time of loss. It was $320 for 4 years unlimited  mileage. I put Michelin PR2s on after the first set. They seem to last the longest.
Enjoy your new ride. It gets funner after the first 3,000 miles.

Its a tire/rim damage/towing package. But it also covers wear which is kinda odd considering the math works out in the customers favor rather than the typical business plan. I guess they expect X number of people will sell the bike and forget about the warranty or X number of people wont use it or the dealership just puts a nail in your tire after the wear gets low.

On another front I spent a couple hours getting the suspension dialed in.

Notes:

The left fork rebound was 5 clicks while the right was 4 clicks.

Fork preloads were max soft with all washers/bars whatever showing. Both were set to the same level.

Rear preload was set to 10 clicks from softest or 14 clicks out. (should be 13 and I had the sales guy tighten it 4 clicks before I got on it, I watched him tighent it) So this means it was set to 20 clicks out... yucky

Rear rebound was 2.25 turns from lock, mucho softer than stock specs.

With all these bad settings from a new bike i'm assuming the dealer techs dicked with it for a potentional customer to sit on and test around the block.

My new settings:

Front Preload: tightened to 3.25 washers/bars showing
Front Rebound 3 clicks out counter clockwise

Rear Preload: 18 clicks (6 clicks from full lock counter clockwise)
Rear Rebound: 1.5 turns out counter clockwise

Took the bike out. Much stiffer and much more responsive. I'll get some more daily miles on it and re-tune as needed.

Also my bike stalled out on me once before under hard accelleration..

1st... roll off/on clutch 2nd roll off/on clutch dead.... hold clutch and hit the starter or shift up a few and slowly let the clutch out

Today during some "private and closed road course" riding I was in 3rd under full throttle, preloaded the shifter roll off/on clutch and the bike died in 4th. I pulled the clutch and got on the brakes while hitting the starter button.

I guess is either my idle is too low (which I have adjusted in the past couple days more than once since it seemed either too high or too low) or I rattled my battery terminal/s loose. I probably adjusted it down when I had ECO mode on which put my regular idle a touch to low since ECO mode runs a high lean idle.

Set it to about 1200 rpm or so when hot.  That should fix the stalling.  Some bikes have come with the idle set too low.

Yeah my idle was set to about 1000-1050 out of the box. I'll up it tomorrow after a 10-15 minute ride to work. I know I already checked the battery cables after the 600 mile bolt/nut/screw check so the idle adjust should fix the issue.

You might as well adjust the throttle cables too.

I did that on day 2 of ownership. There was quite a bit of slack. After adjustment it shifts much smoother and responds much better.

  Way ahead of me.

I totally get why the lean eco map idles higher than the regular map but does anyone else notice the deceleration lag when blipping the throttle on the eco map? Decel from 2500 back to the high idle seams feathered or delayed. I did a couple full throttle runs from 1st to 2nd after adjusting this morning. It didn't stall. However I did miss the 1st to 2nd shift again, this is about the 5-6th time so far. I must not be doing something right (clutch not all the way in, shifting to slow, not rolling hard, not pulling up hard enough on the shifter).

Have you adjusted the foot shift lever?

Not yet. I suppose I could lower the shifter a tad so I can have more pull on up shifts and see if that helps. I wear a size 15 so I usually get pretty good torque on the shifters but i'll fiddle with the adjuster nuts tonight/tomorrow and see what I come up with. The best thing I've done for shifting is bringing up the revs to 4k before shifting...so much smoother when combined with an uber light touch preload (more of foot pre-positioning than preload).

Unless I'm stopping I don't do much more than fan the clutch lever when upshifting.

However I did miss the 1st to 2nd shift again, this is about the 5-6th time so far. I must not be doing something right.

That is the most difficult shift, since it is has further to go (past/through neutral) AND it is more likely to be higher RPM (more mis-match) AND you have to shift faster than any other sequence.

Hi,
     All I had to readjust on mine was the suspension and the rear brake pedal. The brake pedal was set to low and you had to just about push to the tarmac to get it to work! Was easy to adjust though!

Yeah my idle was set to about 1000-1050 out of the box. I'll up it tomorrow after a 10-15 minute ride to work. I know I already checked the battery cables after the 600 mile bolt/nut/screw check so the idle adjust should fix the issue.

- sorry to hear that you're having some stalling issues with the new bike.

- just FYI , my 2012 C14 idles at approx 900 rpms when hot (non ECON mode) and does not stall between shifts.

- shifting is helped by (a) preloading the shift pedal during upshifts and (b) getting most of the slack  out of the throttle cable.
.

Definitely repeatable, I moved my hot idle up to 1200-1250 and the bike will stall after a 1st or 2nd gear pull to redline then hold the clutch. It dips to 700 rpm then dies.

I'll bump up the rpm a little more and see what I come up with. Could be it wasn't fully warm or that the temp dropped 15 degrees today.

Bumped it up to about 1400 on a hot idle (55f ambient) and ran it hard a few times without it shutting off on me.

1400 is too much
.

Hard to believe holding it at redline and then slamming the throttle closed could induce a stall.
Have you tried going all the way to see if there really is a rev-limiter?
That usually cleans the plugs off and cures whatever ails it.

Thanks for the sarcasm