Just got my 2013 C14

[B.D.F.]

I am surprised that the bike stalls with the idle set that high but going to redline, closing the throttle quickly and letting the engine return all the way to idle is pretty severe; the ECU will withhold fuel to reduce the engine speed but when it does get back into the idle RPM range, the entire induction system is dry (without fuel) so the small amount then injected may not be enough to prevent a stall. Nothing wrong with bumping the idle up a bit more either although that tends to exacerbate other situations such as shifting into first with the bike stopped (it makes a bigger lurch).

As the bike is new, the engine will loosen up a bit too and that may help the overall throttle response.

Brian

Definitely repeatable, I moved my hot idle up to 1200-1250 and the bike will stall after a 1st or 2nd gear pull to redline then hold the clutch. It dips to 700 rpm then dies.

I'll bump up the rpm a little more and see what I come up with. Could be it wasn't fully warm or that the temp dropped 15 degrees today.

[Cuda]

My bike 900rpms at best and NO problem??
 

[katata1100]

For better shifting, replaced the cheap plastic bushing in the shifter with a ball bearing one. You'll notice the difference immediately. The stock plastic bushing will get sloppy sooner than later.

[pistole]

new bikes do not have that plastic bushing on the shift lever
.

[VirginiaJim]

For better shifting, replaced the cheap plastic bushing in the shifter with a ball bearing one. You'll notice the difference immediately. The stock plastic bushing will get sloppy sooner than later.

Truthfully, I couldn't tell the difference, but YMMV.  I'm also an unfeeling sod, or so I've been told at times.

[Cuda]

new bikes do not have that plastic bushing on the shift lever
.

What do they have?

[phildobaggins]

Just lowered my shift lever 3/4-1" on my lunch break. Much easier to shift. I might raise it up just a 1/8" or so just to give my giant boots bit more room but this appears to have solved my issue missing 2nd due to wimpy shifting.

Excellent.

[pistole]

Whay do they have?

there is a steel sleeve pressed into the pedal. No plastic bushing.

.

[phildobaggins]

1159 miles, swapped out the free kawi 10w40 dino for some new rotella T Triple 15w40 / fram moto filter. Changed the rear oil as well with mobil 1 75w90. Both engine/diff had lots of fine break-in material. I'll probably do another early change at 3000 then start longer OCI.

I'm curious if the extra zinc will make shifts even smoother.

[Scaffolder]

I change the dif. fluid at every oil change. Such a small price to pay.
I use the Rotella T-6 and the same  gear oil as you. I have had great luck with it.

[phildobaggins]

There is a noticeable difference is clutch grab with the rotella 15w40 over the Kawasaki 10w40. Rotella is smoother (this could just be that its fresh oil) getting in and out of the friction zone. Gear changes remain the same.

[Scaffolder]

My gear changing stayed the same. I can not go over 4,000 miles before an oil change. It just starts to feel slightly different.

[phildobaggins]

My shifts feel real notchy after 700-1000 miles on the oil but I commute 90% city, oil never gets to temp and I'm sure fuel dilution is high hence why I went to 15w40. This was the same on my versys, most likely due to a ton of short commutes per day.

[Warbird]

Try the T-6 and you will notice much improved shifting in about the first 100 ft or so.        MUCH better shifting. My friend has 120,000 miles on his 08 and uses the Rotela T-6 (19.99 for a gallon jug @ wal mart ), Purolator PL14610 oil filter ( about 5.99 @ Advance Auto ) and the 75/90 Mobil-1 in the back. Original clutch still and no mechanical problems. Amazing.... 

[phildobaggins]

I exclusively ran T6 in my kawa versys but after reading UOA's for the connie14 on T6 it looks like 15w40 holds a lot better over a few thousand miles. I can give it a try and see how it responds but right now it looks like the 15w40 HDEO's are much better for trying to achieve more than 1500 miles before it shears to a 30w oil.

[Warbird]

Phil if you are worrying about shearing then try Amsoil or Mobil-1 20-50. Very stable over the long run. And great shifting. Give em a try....I really think one of those two would give you results you will like. Performance and mileage.....

I will say though that the 120,000 miles on my friends and over 80,000 miles on stevewfl's (on this forum and other's ) are real world results that are hard to argue with. Both use Rotella T-6. Those results fly in the face of people arguing on the internet over oil analysys.

Charles

[phildobaggins]

I'll throw T6 in on the next change and report back.

[Warbird]

10-4 

I just bought a barely used Concours and have not ridden very many miles on it yet but sure did enjoy them. I know you have got to be loving  yours and I am enjoying reading this thread and your opinions on the bike.

Charles

[stevewfl]

Phil if you are worrying about shearing then try Amsoil or Mobil-1 20-50. Very stable over the long run. And great shifting. Give em a try....I really think one of those two would give you results you will like. Performance and mileage.....

I will say though that the 120,000 miles on my friends and over 80,000 miles on stevewfl's (on this forum and other's ) are real world results that are hard to argue with. Both use Rotella T-6. Those results fly in the face of people arguing on the internet over oil analysys.

Charles

+1

Yes sir, I suspect the Rotella T6 will get me to about 200,000 miles or so and something else will kill the bike other than my oil selection. At which time I'll part it out on the ebay 

[phildobaggins]

Just about any oil will work and keep the engine healthy if its changed often enough. For me this is my daily hobby. If I get to wrench on something and change the oil every 2000 then its just bonus fun time.

This week I have really been working on getting my shifting where I want it to be. After adjusting the shift lever down I stopped missing the upshift to 2nd. However, I have missed 3 to 4 a few times and its due to wimpy shifts. I think the lightness in the transmission of my previous bike (versys) got me into some bad habits.

I have set aside some of my wife-less time I would normally go riding on the weekend to do some parking lot drills to get my skills back up to where they were on the versys:

----------------------------------------------------
Mindfulness of every shift up and down with a light pre-load, fast snap and quick throttle/clutch. (been doing this day one, broke my habits of shifting at 2500, now closer to 3500-4000 and its much smoother)

Ordered some cones to use in practicing MSF skills (SLOW SPEED DRILLS) since I lost most of my slow speed skills: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RY6DCS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2I01FNSVQ74N9

Lock to Lock turns...see above

I would practice getting more weight inside the turns but I cannot achieve a good foot position on the bike due to the passenger peg mounts catching my heel. My size 50 EU Alpinestar boots just don't let me into a position to properly weight the peg with the ball of my foot. However I can still pull a 1 cheek sneak and lean off to keep from leaning the bike to far.

Graceful stopping and takeoff (getting there now that the weight has disappeared)
----------------------------------------------------

Sounds nerdy but I really enjoy going out on a Sunday and going to my favorite secret abandoned/unsold spot and doing slow speed shiz. Everyone can go fast in a straight line, but I like to pride myself on pulling into gas stations and making nice tight turns and never putting a foot down until i'm at the pump. In traffic I always see guys walking bikes or leaving their feet down at 15mph and that is goofy.