So I'm currently running heated Corbin front & rear, radar detector, gps, and heated grips.
 
I'm looking to get some Gerbings heated gear for this winter.
 
What is the best box (sorry if that's not what it's called)?? I think I've seen this one from Fuzeblock posted on here, is this the best option? If not what is? Please provide links too, thanks.
 
http://www.fuzeblocks.com/
 

I don't have one, but have seen several posts of folks who love theirs.

I've got this one on the shelf for winter work.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/main/products/fuseboxes/pc-8/pc-8.html

IMHO, the Fuzeblock FZ1 is the absolute best aftermarket fuse box. There are some others that are very good as well, and less expensive. Take a look at http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html and http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap2.shtml. The only downside to the Fuzeblock brand is the price. They have a great product, but they know it and charge a premium for it. And that wiring kit they offer for $34 ..... they may have $10 in materials in that kit so they are making a HUGE profit off that stuff.

IMHO, the Fuzeblock FZ1 is the absolute best aftermarket fuse box. The only downside to the Fuzeblock brand is the price. They have a great product, but they know it and charge a premium for it. And that wiring kit they offer for $34 ..... they may have $10 in materials in that kit so they are making a HUGE profit off that stuff.

Is that wiring kit you mention included or extra? (Never mind on that question I see it's additional $)
 
What exactly is that for? Would I need that? 
 
Sorry if these are silly questions, I just honestly don't know so am trying to get educated... 

What exactly is that for? Would I need that? 
 

It includes three 6" sections of 12 guage wire in black, red, and yellow.
Black for the ground
Yellow will go to the battery for a constant 12 volts
Red will go to a switched power source for 12 volts when the bike is running.
He gives you 2 in-line fuses for the red and yellow leads, a piece of wire loom webbing to cover the wires, and some zip ties.
It is all the wire supplies you need to hook up the fuse box, but just not worth $34 IMO.
But all that aside, as I said originally, the Fuzeblock brand fuse box is probably the best accessory box available.

It includes three 6" sections of 12 guage wire in black, red, and yellow.
Black for the ground
Yellow will go to the battery for a constant 12 volts
Red will go to a switched power source for 12 volts when the bike is running.
He gives you 2 in-line fuses for the red and yellow leads, a piece of wire loom webbing to cover the wires, and some zip ties.
It is all the wire supplies you need to hook up the fuse box, but just not worth $34 IMO.
But all that aside, as I said originally, the Fuzeblock brand fuse box is probably the best accessory box available.

Thanks brutha! 

It includes three 6" sections of 12 guage wire in black, red, and yellow.
Black for the ground
Yellow will go to the battery for a constant 12 volts
Red will go to a switched power source for 12 volts when the bike is running.

Usually we wire the RED wire to the always-on 12V positive power (battery), and use the YELLOW for switched (on when running,  accessory) 12V positive power.

UD

If you're the DIY kid of guy (which I know you aren't), you can pick up a marine fuse block and a 30a waterproof relay for about $15.00 from Amazon. I'm not a huge fan of the Fuseblock FZ-1 because the relay is integrated. If the relay goes out, you basically throw away the unit and purchase another.

Personal Opinion, heated clothing should be run directly to your battery. Heated gear draws lots of amps. A Gerbing jacket and pants combo draw around 10 amps combined add gloves and socks and you are close to 14 amps. There is no need to have Heated clothing on a "switched on" circuit (like a relay) because as soon as you step off the bike, you disconnect it.

Jose Soriano

IMHO, the Fuzeblock FZ1 is the absolute best aftermarket fuse box. There are some others that are very good as well, and less expensive. Take a look at http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html and http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap2.shtml. The only downside to the Fuzeblock brand is the price. They have a great product, but they know it and charge a premium for it. And that wiring kit they offer for $34 ..... they may have $10 in materials in that kit so they are making a HUGE profit off that stuff.

+1

Only use it if "second best" won't suffice

Personal Opinion, heated clothing should be run directly to your battery. Heated gear draws lots of amps. A Gerbing jacket and pants combo draw around 10 amps combined add gloves and socks and you are close to 14 amps. There is no need to have Heated clothing on a "switched on" circuit (like a relay) because as soon as you step off the bike, you disconnect it.

Jose Soriano

FUZEBLOCK<---switched or unswitched depends on the position of the fuse in each slot.

My Fuzeblock has been running my heated gear successfully for 62,000 miles in 2 years

Personal Opinion, heated clothing should be run directly to your battery. Heated gear draws lots of amps. A Gerbing jacket and pants combo draw around 10 amps combined add gloves and socks and you are close to 14 amps. There is no need to have Heated clothing on a "switched on" circuit (like a relay) because as soon as you step off the bike, you disconnect it.

Jose Soriano

Most decent fuse blocks will handle ~ 20a per circuit, so it shouldn't be a problem if you wanted to. I agree though, it's not necessary for heated gear alone. A 10a - 15a inline fuse is all you really need.

In ZG's case, he has so many gadgets and accessories that it would behoove him to have a switched fuse block for some of it...

I'm just using a standard auto relay from O'Rielly's and the inline fuses built into my accessories.

Great comments and suggestions so far guys, much appreciated, please keep em coming....     

Great comments and suggestions so far guys, much appreciated, please keep em coming....     

^^^^open invitation to post-ho!?

Usually we wire the RED wire to the always-on 12V positive power (battery), and use the YELLOW for switched (on when running,  accessory) 12V positive power.

UD

There is really no difference, it is simply a color choice. In my younger days I worked for a car audio shop doing radio and alarm installs. The industry standard then was that yellow was constant and red was switched so I have always followed that practice.

I've got this one on the shelf for winter work.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/main/products/fuseboxes/pc-8/pc-8.html

+1 on the Eastern Beaver.  Great company to deal with and outstanding product quality.

It includes three 6" sections of 12 guage wire in black, red, and yellow.
Black for the ground
Yellow will go to the battery for a constant 12 volts
Red will go to a switched power source for 12 volts when the bike is running.
He gives you 2 in-line fuses for the red and yellow leads, a piece of wire loom webbing to cover the wires, and some zip ties.
It is all the wire supplies you need to hook up the fuse box, but just not worth $34 IMO.
But all that aside, as I said originally, the Fuzeblock brand fuse box is probably the best accessory box available.

I think it's 6 feet long (just to be clear, not nitpicken typos), and the the wire that goes to the switched source can be much smaller (22ga) as it just triggers the on board relay to connect the constant source, on FuzeBlock's website they mention that 18ga is more than sufficient for the switched (+VT) connection. The wiring kit is overpriced unless you are way out in the boonies, then maybe the convenience of having it on hand is worth it?

The Dispatch 1 looks really nice especially for heated gear, but the price($350-$399)...well for ZG's deep pockets it could work.
I guess if you deduct the cost of heat controllers the dispatch one seems better, but I don't have any heated gear yet so
I'm out of my zone of familiarity on that.

The Dispatch 1 looks really nice especially for heated gear, but the price($350-$399)...well for ZG's deep pockets it could work.
I guess if you deduct the cost of heat controllers the dispatch one seems better, but I don't have any heated gear yet so
I'm out of my zone of familiarity on that.

I like the concept of that one FM but why did they have to make the graphic's of the controller look like something out of a Dr. Suess book??