I love that engine, but really appreciate the modern hydraulic lifters..

Yeah, this is just a ridiculous amount of work for a "maintenance" item, at least on a bike this complicated and packed with stuff.  This makes me want an electric motorcycle even more (if we can just get the battery technology there- we have a pretty long way to go, still).

Shims should be here Wednesday.  We are still trying to figure out how to fix the engine mount.  The attempt to drill out the bolt has failed- it is impossible to center the hole due to the bold surface being so uneven.  My friend has some ideas still.  And we are both still very sore.

I feel your pain. When I adjusted the valves on my C14 about 4 years ago it was a true stressor and took a lot of time. At 28k miles, 13 out of 16 valves were slightly out of spec; adjusted them all to the high side of spec range. I am not a mechanic and this was at the limit of my mechanical abilities. But at least when it was done I was certain that all valves were adjusted properly. I was fearful of what would happen when it came time to start the engine, or if the engine would even start. It was a great relief when it started and ran well. But I will never adjust the valves on this bike again. Never. Ever. Best wishes for getting the job done.

That is my sentiments to. Pressing that starter button the first time was hard!

I feel your pain. When I adjusted the valves on my C14 about 4 years ago it was a true stressor and took a lot of time. At 28k miles, 13 out of 16 valves were slightly out of spec; adjusted them all to the high side of spec range. I am not a mechanic and this was at the limit of my mechanical abilities. But at least when it was done I was certain that all valves were adjusted properly. I was fearful of what would happen when it came time to start the engine, or if the engine would even start. It was a great relief when it started and ran well. But I will never adjust the valves on this bike again. Never. Ever. Best wishes for getting the job done.

Yeah, this is just a ridiculous amount of work for a "maintenance" item, at least on a bike this complicated and packed with stuff.  This makes me want an electric motorcycle even more (if we can just get the battery technology there- we have a pretty long way to go, still).

Shims should be here Wednesday.  We are still trying to figure out how to fix the engine mount.  The attempt to drill out the bolt has failed- it is impossible to center the hole due to the bold surface being so uneven.  My friend has some ideas still.  And we are both still very sore.

So how long have you been on this forum reading valve check/adjust posts?  Let us know when you want us to call you Haroldo...

I reallllly miss Haroldo...


 

but...
Haroldo basically did his own work..  a didn't a pro mechanic helping him... Max has like 20 of us, and needs some cheese to go with the "whine"...

just kidding, and in my usual friendly manner... all good... get a hand grinder and grind the end of the broken bolt down flat, then use a center punch, to make a good "divvet" in the end, drill the sucker, and use easy-out to remove...


then, while the bike is "sans-tank", remove and replace that gacked up fuel filter... trust me, it's gacked up now... and will haunt you later............

get a hand grinder and grind the end of the broken bolt down flat, then use a center punch, to make a good "divvet" in the end, drill the sucker

Unfortunately, it is broken further in, so it can't be ground flat... yet.  My friend is making some kind of jig to see if we can get a straight shot with an end-mill type thing to make it flat enough.

and use easy-out to remove...

It won't be easy.  It broke because of the unbelievable amount of torque we had to put on it.  But we are hoping with heat and such, we can get it out.

then, while the bike is "sans-tank", remove and replace that gacked up fuel filter... trust me, it's gacked up now... and will haunt you later............

That was on my "maybe" list.  The problem now is that the tank is half full and sitting on its side (and isn't leaking for some reason).  We expected, when it was de-hosed, it would spew gas, but didn't.  Also don't have a filter (and too late now to get one, probably).  I suppose I could try to clean it, though?  Assuming I can somehow get enough gas out of the tank to remove the assembly.  On my old ZRX, it was easy- just turn the valve to empty it, close it to keep gas in.

the fuel line contains a check valve, preventing fuel loss when removed... trust me, I did mine just before the national rally this year, and using a BIG funnel, open the cap, and invert the tank over the funnel to remove the fuel.. dump it into your car.

then, when done lay the inverted tank on it's side, and pull the pump, and do the filter... It's very easy.
you don't need to "order one", they sell them at pretty much every Kaw dealership, it's used on about every fuel injected machine Kaw makes.. they are always on the shelf...

49019-0013... should be in stock at most Kaw ATV dealerships..

go over to the COG site, there are a lot of directions for the job there...

Unfortunately, it is broken further in, so it can't be ground flat... yet.  My friend is making some kind of jig to see if we can get a straight shot with an end-mill type thing to make it flat enough.

He first cleaned out the casting ridge that was inside the mounting bracket, making it "true".  He then made a special tool by drilling out a bolt that fits inside the engine mount bracket, with an inside diameter that fits a 5/16" tool and dropped that off today.  The theory is that if I can get the engine to align with the hole (which I am not sure how I will do that and keep it there) I can then use an end-mill bit through that special tool to reface the broken bolt.  Then switch to a 5/16" drill bit and drill through the bolt, using the tool to keep the bit level/straight.  Then we can later use heat to destroy the threadlocking and then back the rest of the bolt back out using something like an easy-out.  I hope to attempt the drilling part on Friday.

Also, the shims arrived today, and are the correct/ordered sizes.  Hats off to Rocky Mountain (ordered on Sunday with "standard" shipping).  I hope we can attempt to use them Saturday afternoon.

WOW...I have done valve adjusts on every bike I have owned that needed it over the last 50 years but I will never do one on my C14. I rode mine to Texas (1,300 miles each way) and had Fred Harmon do mine and it was so worth it....especially when I see your pictures. You are a better man than I am. Mine was done at 46,000 miles and he replaced 12 shims to get them all at center but if I remember correctly only 4  were out of spec. 16,000 miles later no leaks or problems of any kind and runs perfect....my wallet is a little lighter though. Two days in a hotel watching TV seemed like more fun than taking on that job. JMO

Only two pages so far...Come on Max!

WOW...I have done valve adjusts on every bike I have owned that needed it over the last 50 years but I will never do one on my C14. I rode mine to Texas (1,300 miles each way) and had Fred Harmon do mine and it was so worth it....especially when I see your pictures. You are a better man than I am. Mine was done at 46,000 miles and he replaced 12 shims to get them all at center but if I remember correctly only 4  were out of spec. 16,000 miles later no leaks or problems of any kind and runs perfect....my wallet is a little lighter though. Two days in a hotel watching TV seemed like more fun than taking on that job. JMO

Fred was my solution as well, Great guy to work with. However I hauled my track bike up to Mountain Home along with the C14 and rode some of the best roads in Arkansas while he did the work.

 

.........I rode mine to Texas (1,300 miles each way) and had Fred Harmon do mine and it was so worth it....especially when I see your pictures. ....my wallet is a little lighter though. Two days in a hotel watching TV seemed like more fun than taking on that job. JMO

Fred was my solution as well, Great guy to work with. However I hauled my track bike up to Mountain Home along with the C14 and rode some of the best roads in Arkansas while he did the work.

Just for clarity on these two posts, between these two above quoted valve jobs, Fred Harmon moved from 15 minutes from my house (Texas) to 8 hours from my house (Arkansas)  . 
He is indeed now living in the Mountain Home Arkansas area.

OK, back to max's story....

OK but you are not the reason he moved, right? At least not the main reason..... ?

 

Brian

Just for clarity on these two posts, between these two above quoted valve jobs, Fred Harmon moved from 15 minutes from my house (Texas) to 8 hours from my house (Arkansas)  . 
He is indeed now living in the Mountain Home Arkansas area.

OK, back to max's story....

Only two pages so far...Come on Max!

Sorry, I have to work every day.  Not much will happen between weekends.  And much of that is dependent on if/when my friend can help.  I am off tomorrow and will attempt to drill out the broken bolt.  Sunday I have to take THE CAR to Richmond, since I will have no bike.

OK but you are not the reason he moved, right? At least not the main reason..... ?

 

Brian

 

No, I only went to his house 4 times. Two of the times was to drop off the bike and the other two were to drop off money, so I don't think that was the reason. If my local presence was the reason he moved I'm sure he would have moved much further away than only 8 hours. Besides the wind pattern from my house to his wasn't a problem (however I've noticed a lot of houses on the market to the north of me...hmmmmm.

 

No, I only went to his house 4 times. Two of the times was to drop off the bike and the other two were to drop off money, so I don't think that was the reason. If my local presence was the reason he moved I'm sure he would have moved much further away than only 8 hours. Besides the wind pattern from my house to his wasn't a problem (however I've noticed a lot of houses on the market to the north of me...hmmmmm.

If we ever are close, I'll ride upwind and far ahead..

If we ever are close, I'll ride upwind and far ahead..

Most do, however it has more to do with my lack of riding skills than it does their ability to breathe. 

If you guys ever see Fred's place in the hilly, wooded outskirts of Mountain Home you will know why he moved.

Today I used my friend's contraption/bushing/thing to reface the broken bolt in the engine mount.  Then bought some new bits and drilled through the bolt with a 5/16".  Took a long time.  Not sure how true or square it is.  Now I have to wait for him to come and try to remove what is left of the bolt.

Meanwhile, I repaired the two fairing mounts which are infamous for breaking.  The two that are on the mirrors that hold the left and right panels (the left one houses the glovebox).  The left one was cracked and almost broken off.  The right one was completely broken off.  I reattached them using small nylon zip ties around the circumference.  Then I spread JB weld all around that.

Then I repaired the other common trim problem- the glovebox panel near the grip warmer control.  It cracked all the way through (pic attached).  I removed the control, cleaned the underside, scored it up with a razor blade, put on some fiberglass tape mesh, then spread JB weld over it.  Will it hold?  Who knows.

JB Weld is a good product.  I would think it would hold up fine.