I started taking my 2010 Connie apart to install a Rostra cruise control. I first armed my self with Brian's '08-'09 instructions and with the updated changes by Rhino for the '10.
I got the plastic off the left side and then the plastic top cover off the right side and ...WTF!  I bought my bike new in Texas but I guess it was originally destined for California because
there is an evaporative emission control canister right where I was going to put the Rostra.

Anybody here successfully UN-Californiacise their C14? There are two hoses going to the canister, I don’t suppose I could just hook them together and still have it run OK could I?
 Are there other California surprises besides the canister, is the ECU flashed different than non-California C14s?

Help! I was hoping to get the Rostra installed and several other items taken care of this weekend while I had the covers off, now I'm not so sure.

I guess you could eliminate the canister with a bypass and see how it runs?  Good luck with the install.

I guess you could eliminate the canister with a bypass and see how it runs?  Good luck with the install.

Yeah, I may end up doing that. First I'm going to finish watching Fred's DVDs and see if I can see how his is hooked up. If that's no help
then I think I'll go to a dealer and look at a floor model and see if it has the canister, if not I'll see how the hoses under the seat
get routed if I can.  I wish I had ordered the shop manual. Who knows, maybe I'll find another spot to mount the Rostra that nobody else thought
of, because they didn't have to.

Thanks for the good luck wish.

Marty, where did you find an update for the 2010 install. I am getting ready to install the same unit on my 10. Thanks, John

Marty, where did you find an update for the 2010 install. I am getting ready to install the same unit on my 10. Thanks, John

I was referring to the pictures here, from this thread
by Mal and Rhino. Mix that info with Brian's info and you should have a pretty good guide, unless of course you run into an emmissions canister on a bike that you didn't
think would have one. 

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

I cannot help you on the CA canister, I have a 49 state bike.

You can still locate the actuator next to the radiator on the later bikes if you choose to do so.

Another place I had thought of was to mount the actuator down behind the passenger peg mount. It would be exposed to weather there but they are waterproof units. I don't even think the unit would look bad mounted there although you would have to cover up those multi- colored wires and dust that yellow electrical connector with some flat black paint so the whole thing does not stick out like a sore thumb. The unit would run cooler mounted in that location and it would be a lot easier to tinker with after the installation (no fairing in the way).

Brian

Yeah, I may end up doing that. First I'm going to finish watching Fred's DVDs and see if I can see how his is hooked up. If that's no help
then I think I'll go to a dealer and look at a floor model and see if it has the canister, if not I'll see how the hoses under the seat
get routed if I can.  I wish I had ordered the shop manual. Who knows, maybe I'll find another spot to mount the Rostra that nobody else thought
of, because they didn't have to.

Thanks for the good luck wish.

My 2009 sold in IL was a CA bike. I removed the canister and mounted my Audiovox there.
Check Ron Ayers fiche for the hoses, I believe there is 2 vac sources from the TB's and 1 tank vent.
I used the 2 vac hoses as the vac source for the Cruise Control
The tank vent I added a length of hose to vent it down by the swingarm pivot.
Made the already FAST Black 09 even lighter and faster!!!
 

I have a 49 state bike.

You're a Lucky Guy.

My 2009 sold in IL was a CA bike.

You, not so much, me either.

You can still locate the actuator next to the radiator on the later bikes if you choose to do so.

Brian

Thanks Brian, but that seems like a very warm place to stick an electronic module even if would get just as hot under a car hood which I guess is what it was designed for.
I'll keep it in mind, but I actually liked Rhino's/Mal's location better.
I got some help from Fred on the other forum and I think I'll try and plug the green line (vacuum line) and put a small filter on the blue line
(tank vent) and then maybe I will be able to utilize the canister bracket to mount the Rostra.

Another place I had thought of was to mount the actuator down behind the passenger peg mount.

I like your "outa the box" thinking, but no, I think I'd get rid of the new glove box before I tried that. I'd rather have the cruise control than the
glove box. Besides that idea might interfere with my cup holder. 
I'll report back with the results. Might be a while.

As with the Fuel/mapping primer, again Thanks Brian, and to you too killingbugs.

Nancy Pelosi wants climate control 

Well I ended up plugging the green hose and putting a breather type filter on the blue hose. The bike seems to
run just as before with these changes and without the canister.


I thought I’d share my Rostra install notes, and 2010 updates.

This is not a complete install, it is just changes in wiring that I chose to do, or ones
that Kawasaki changed for me in the 2010 model.  I also included my mechanical
changes as well. Please see Brian’s (BDF) instructions for a complete install.

Electrical

Brake circuit: Since the circuits are available at the front of the bike I decided not
to run wires back to the taillight. Two of the wires needed are in the front right bundle
under the top right fairing cover. The red Rostra wire with the 4 amp fuse attaches to
the bundle red wire w/blue stripe. Terminals 86 and 87 of the relay are connected to the bundle blue wire w/red stripe.
The other relay connections remain the same.
 edit: My notes on the photo could be misleading, so to be clear, you want to simply
 attach Rostra wires to existing C14 wires ("tap into them"), not cut nor redirect any existing C14 wires.



Clutch switch: The clutch switch (aka: starter lockout switch) wire color has changed* on my 2010 model.  It is the left front bundle red wire w/green stripe that should be connected to the Rostra light green “NSS” wire. (*edit: It turns out that the wire color didn't change, I just tapped in on the other side of the connector where the wire color is different. The other side of the connector still has the wire color as described in Brian's instructions. It seemed easier to get to that side of the connector for me.)



Speed sensor: The VSS or speed sensor connection is unchanged; it’s still the Rostra
gray wire to the VSS pink wire located at the lower left of the bike.  Like Brian said, it is easier to make the connection if you remove the one bolt and pull the sensor out. However, Kawasaki puts that bolt in with a red thread locker and the little pieces of dried
locker need to be blown away before the sensor is pulled out so that they don’t fall down in the gearing. Best to put a rag over the hole to protect it while you are working in the area.


The other connections were the same as noted in Brian's instructions.

Mechanical

Some had noted that the cruise would have trouble or engage a little jerky if there was
too much slack in the connection to the throttle arm. I decided to try a throttle arm extension to help bring the range of motion of the Rostra unit and the throttle arm a little more in line with each other. I was going to use two 4-40 bolts and nuts but there was not enough clearance for the forward most nut. I drilled the hole in the throttle arm larger and tapped it with a 6-32 tap and didn’t use a nut behind the throttle arm.



I was trying to attach the cable bracket inside of the large wire bundle yet outside of the frame brace. During the fitting process I managed to tear up an offshoot 16 wire bundle
that was headed off into the center of the bike. I checked the one wire that was damaged and could find no breaks in it so I taped it up and with a big sigh of relief decided to mount the cable bracket outside of the large grey wire bundle.


 A lot of drilling, cutting, and filing later and I had a fairly ugly piece of metal that looked like it was going to work.





The top part fits over the frame brace and is secured by a small screw that goes into a hole that I drilled and tapped in the brace. I ran a flat piece of aluminum over from the lower bolt of the coolant tank to attach at the bottom. The bracket is just clear of the fairing pieces.


 

 I placed the cruise module on the right side and secured it with a zip tie.


Owing to the wonderful weather conditions, this install took several days because I just
didn’t want to work that hard.



However it all seems to have paid off as I’ve never had an automobile factory cruise control work any better than this one does. I am very pleased with how this Rostra is working for me.



Thanks to BDF, Fred H., and Rhino for your postings and help. I could not have done it without you, though I might have tried.

Great work, thanks for the write-up.  Some day I might try it.  BTW, I live in the Houston area and have an air-conditioned garage 

2 questions if anyone can answer please.

I have a 2011.  Now regrading the light green connection:

1. my harness has a different color set up than marty's 2009.  I notice my wire colors are different than his.  does that mean I still use the red w/green wire or the wire (red) that's in the same position that in the connector

2.  Am I supposed to tap into the light green wire then run up to the red w/green wire? 


Thanks  Bob

The Light Green wire is in the Rostra harness that attaches to the actuator. It is tricky because it terminates under one of the tape- bands, very much shorter than the rest of the wires in that harness; I don't know why Rostra did that but it has fooled quite a few people. You can follow it from the connector at the actuator though and see where it ends.

The Lt. Green wire goes to the clutch switch, which on my bike ('08) is black with fine white dots. Yours should be the same, or at least in the same place on the same connector as shown in the photos in the tutorial. You will connect the end of the Lt. Green wire to that wire (whatever color it is on the later bikes but I suspect it is the same color) but you will need an additional length of wire to connect them.

Brian

2 questions if anyone can answer please.

I have a 2011.  Now regrading the light green connection:

1. my harness has a different color set up than marty's 2009.  I notice my wire colors are different than his.  does that mean I still use the red w/green wire or the wire (red) that's in the same position that in the connector

2.  Am I supposed to tap into the light green wire then run up to the red w/green wire? 


Thanks  Bob

Awesome Brian thx

should I cut the light green wire or tap into it?

In Marty's supplement above, however he states that on his 2010 his clutch wire is red w/green stripe not black with white dots.......

Unfortunately I do not have a 2010 model so cannot comment sensibly on wire colors or locations. Marty's photo even shows a different connector than I have on my '08.  

I do not understand 'cut the light green wire then run it up'? Connect the light green wire in the Rostra's actuator wiring harness to the clutch switch on the motorcycle; you should not have to cut or tap the light green wire, just attach to the end of it. As I said, you may have to use a jumper to lengthen the light green wire- mine would not reach but I mounted my actuator on the left / front / bottom of the bike. If you mounted your actuator somewhere else the light green wire may reach the clutch switch.

Do you have a connector that looks like the one shown from my bike in my photos? If so, do you have a black wire in that connector? If so, that <should> be the clutch switch wire from the left handlebar. I tapped into that circuit inside the rubber boot that is located under the top / left black fairing cover, just under the left handlebar grip. It is the same rubber boot that I used the bullet connectors from that power up my Rostra.

One other thing to remember- the color codes of wires often change on Japanese bikes as that wire passes through a connector. Put another way, if you look at the 'other' side of any given connector the wire colors will probably be different.

Brian

Awesome Brian thx

So should I cut the light green wire then run it up or should I leave it attached and tap into it?  BTW in Marty supplement above he noted that his clutch wire is red w/green stripe.

 Not the black with white dots.  ??

My light green wire was taped up onto the harness.  Thought it was connected somewhere  Oops. 

OK while I have a couple different colored wires than marty's I have the red w/green wire in that 3rd slot I'm going to use that.  I'll let all you 2011 guys know what happens.....

I needed a jumper wire as well to make the lt. green Rostra wire longer. Using the '10 wiring diagram the attached pic shows where I connected in the Rostra light green wire. I confirmed with Rostra that when the lt. green wire is grounded the cruise control will deactivate. That should be your decision maker, using an ohm meter the wire you choose should be grounded when the clutch lever is pulled in. Good Luck with your install!

Aha! you guys are using the wire on the other side of the connector! Note that the color of that wire you point to on the schematic changes to black on the other (switch) side of the connector.  Yep, the circuit is the same on either side of the connector so you can connect to either one- it does not make any difference at all which side you choose.

As I have said before, you have to be careful of <which> side of a connector you are working on / looking at on Japanese motorcycles (probably all Japanese vehicles). Several people have grabbed the wire on the wrong side of the connector for the vehicle speed sensor; that one is nasty because they use the same color twice in the same harness and they are different circuits.

Whew- I am glad that was cleared up because it was really making me wonder where you guys were attaching the NSS wire of the Rostra.... 

Brian

I needed a jumper wire as well to make the lt. green Rostra wire longer. Using the '10 wiring diagram the attached pic shows where I connected in the Rostra light green wire. I confirmed with Rostra that when the lt. green wire is grounded the cruise control will deactivate. That should be your decision maker, using an ohm meter the wire you choose should be grounded when the clutch lever is pulled in. Good Luck with your install!

Thx Marty.  That diagram worked

Ok so I have the whole thing hooked up and I have a small problem.  When I test rode it, it would set with the resume/accel button.  But then the set/coast button would not resume or accel.  Yes I wired the 4 pin harness correctly

So then I switched the yellow and green wires.  Yellow to green and green to yellow.   Now the set/coast button will set and coast (good thing) but the resume/accel button does nothing.   Hmmmm. 

The buttons obviously work since I tried it 2 ways and the buttons engaged it.   Anyone have an idea?   

Thx

Bob

The only function that will work when the unit is first powered up is the set / decel function, and then only in the set mode. The resume / accel function cannot work at first because there is nothing in the unit's memory to resume and no set speed to accelerate from.

Once a speed has been set and the unit has worked, then the resume function will work.

Brian

Thx Marty.  That diagram worked

Ok so I have the whole thing hooked up and I have a small problem.  When I test rode it, it would set with the resume/accel button.  But then the set/coast button would not resume or accel.  Yes I wired the 4 pin harness correctly

So then I switched the yellow and green wires.  Yellow to green and green to yellow.   Now the set/coast button will set and coast (good thing) but the resume/accel button does nothing.   Hmmmm. 

The buttons obviously work since I tried it 2 ways and the buttons engaged it.   Anyone have an idea?   

Thx

Bob