FOB issue

[wb57]

This has likely been answered, and if so, I can't find it, but....

All of a sudden, my Fob isn't working on my 2010.  Replaced the battery with a brand spanky new store bought one.  Holding it against the ignition switch DOES work, but I can't get it to talk to the fob.

Any suggestions on where to start or should I just give this thing away and start fresh?

[maxtog]

All of a sudden, my Fob isn't working on my 2010.  Replaced the battery with a brand spanky new store bought one.  Holding it against the ignition switch DOES work,

So you are saying passive mode works but active mode does not.

but I can't get it to talk to the fob.

You just said it worked passively

Any suggestions on where to start

There isn't much to do except to look at the electrical contacts inside the fob and ensure they are clean, sprung well, and making correct contact with the battery and board.

or should I just give this thing away and start fresh?

I don't know what you mean by that

[wb57]

Correct, passive mode works.
I have had the fob apart, cleaned all contacts, made sure there was tension where it needed to be, made sure the battery was fresh, etc.  I will go through it again, but don't think that's going to get me there.

Re: give this thing away.  I'm getting too old, tired and lazy to want to put a bunch of effort into this at this point and certainly not a bunch of money.  If it's going to need a new fob/ECU on top of the valve adjustment it's going to need, it just doesn't have much monetary value.

[maxtog]

Correct, passive mode works. I have had the fob apart, cleaned all contacts, made sure there was tension where it needed to be, made sure the battery was fresh, etc.  I will go through it again, but don't think that's going to get me there.

Yeah, probably not going to help.

Re: give this thing away.  I'm getting too old, tired and lazy to want to put a bunch of effort into this at this point and certainly not a bunch of money.

I can understand that.

If it's going to need a new fob/ECU on top of the valve adjustment it's going to need, it just doesn't have much monetary value.

Well, it won't need a new ECU.  As long as there is ANY working FOB in passive or active, you can have a new active FOB programmed without replacement of the ECU.  What screws people are those who have only one working FOB and then it is lost.  Then you have to replace the ECU.  You should *never* own a C14 with only a single FOB, it is way too risky.  Unfortunately some buy used C14's and don't know that danger and the dealer only gives them a single FOB because that is what was given to them.  The C14 is sold with 2 FOBs for a good reason.  Personally, given the complexity and danger with this model, I think they should have included 3 standard (maybe 2 active and 1 passive, or at least 1 active and 2 passive).

Valve adjustment on the C14 really is a beast.  But that is a pretty typical expense for any modern motorcycle.

[Freddy]

I had a similar issue with the fob a few years ago.  If I squeezed the fob it would work.  One day I got the NO TRANSPONDER message while riding, so I squeezed the fob in my pocket and message disappeared and all was well until I stopped about a half hour later.  When I turned the ign knob to off, it again showed NO TRANSPONDER for the 10 seconds until it powered off as normal.  No amount to squeezing the fob would wake the screen up after pressing the knob, so I used the passive function to start the bike and get home.

I subsequently found that the fob's circuit board was 'corroded' in one spot as shown:



I took it to an electronics tech who said he should be able to repair it by replacing that transistor, but he didn't have any that small on hand.  The smallest he had was 1.2mm leg spacing but this was 0.8mm.  He got 1 out of a $20 pack of 200 (minimum order) a couple of weeks later, soldered it in and the fob's been perfect ever since. 

Yours may be a different issue but look at it under magnification, or take it to a specialist tech to examine.

[wb57]

Interesting!
I'll take a look.
Thanks.

[wb57]

Thanks, Maxtog.  I'll check with a couple of the local dealers and see how they react to programming a new one.

[wb57]

$400 for a f'ing fob??

https://www.revzilla.com/oem/kawasaki/kawasaki-21175-0726-fob-key?srsltid=AfmBOorlSdvUkwBwkW51xRZJdbqYRYTsXdz3X7NarGfMsqIkUiKSI7_p&sku_id=1367121

Mama Kaw, if you want me out of the sport, just say so because this is how you do it.  Well, that and $20K bikes.

Didn't see this coming when I got into the sport 55+ years ago.

[maxtog]

$400 for a f'ing fob??

$377.  But wow, that is a freaking lot.  Especially since you ALSO have to pay for the programming.  And I am not sure that even includes the metal key, which would also have to be cut (if one didn't have one already).

BTW- As I said before, you *must* have two working FOB's at all times to prevent possible disaster.  But even your dead active FOB will work as a spare passive one.  So you are still safe (assuming you have the other passive/thin FOB that came with the bike), just inconvenienced.

And this is also the reason my active fob NEVER leaves the inside zippered pocket of my riding jacket.  There is almost zero chance of losing my jacket, nor will the fob get crushed or wet.  I had a regular metal key for use with the bags and gas tank, I think it was $10?