Recent Posts

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10
31
Open Forum / Re: New car time- shocking
« Last post by maxtog on May 20, 2025, 03:35:37 PM »
I see buying new cars as the 2nd most efficient way to waste money on the planet, right after gambling.

Well, someone has to buy new (cringe: or lease new) , or there will be no used ones :)

Two of my cars were used, and three new.  I prefer new because they are "perfect" and will be properly broken-in, paint sealed, garage-kept, use synthetic oil, cared-for well, and have the low mileage I will place on them.  But- I keep them for a long time, and I buy, I don't lease (leasing typically only benefits the dealer, which is why they push them so hard on people).  So in the long-term, I make out fine.  That said, nothing wrong with going after a used deal, if you can.
32
Open Forum / Re: New car time- shocking
« Last post by Boomer on May 20, 2025, 03:49:12 AM »
Guys I work with are paying $700 per month for their car (Lease or PCP Finance), just so they can have a new car every 3 years,.... but they own nothing. So, they are paying $25,000 over the 3 years before they change to a new car. Yes, they get a new car every 3 years, but what for?

I paid $6,000 for my 2004 91k mile LS430 in Jan 2018 and so far it has cost me $4,000 in repairs and service costs over 55k miles and 7.5 years but has never let me down. Even if I factor in the $6,000 I am about to spend on it that's $16,000, or a QUARTER of what they have paid out over the same period. Not only that, but my car is still worth $6,000 on the used car market, so I have only spent $10,000 over the 7.5 years, so I have actually paid less than a SIXTH of what they have.

I see buying new cars as the 2nd most efficient way to waste money on the planet, right after gambling.

My C14 was bought new in 2007 and I bought a new RD50 in 1979 and a new Z1300/6 in 1984 (working bike for courier work) but otherwise I have never bought a new vehicle.
I sold the RD50 at a loss, the Z1300 paid for itself in about 4 months of work and after 18 months & 170,000kms I sold it to a friend who ran it to 360,000kms over the next 15 years before the engine ate itself,... and I still have the C14.

As for the "battery replacement" issue, this is way less common than engine replacements in ICE cars and about as expensive. Most batteries with faults can now be repaired and there are specialists out there who will replace individual cells in a battery as needed as well as fix problems with the electronics associated with them.

Service costs on BEVs are WAY less than ICE cars, fuel costs are variable but assuming you charge at home every night you can expect to pay less than a quarter of what you would pay for an equivalent ICE, but tyre life is slightly worse, probably due to increased weight.

Apart from the range issue and the nagware/driver aids I would love to have a decent sized BEV. They drive just as nicely as my LS430 and cost way less to run.
However, it's not going to happen any time soon as they are all too new and too expensive.
33
Open Forum / Re: New car time- shocking
« Last post by maxtog on May 19, 2025, 03:45:50 PM »
OK, well, good luck, from the amount you say you drive, the tranny and battery replacement won't be an issue for quite some time.

Well, there really isn't what most people would think of as a transmission in it, just a single-speed gear reduction differential, and that is extremely unlikely to malfunction.  But yeah, with the low mileage I drive, I shouldn't put any real dent in the battery life, even after a decade or more (assuming I have it that long).  Not that there aren't lots of other things that could malfunction- HVAC, computers, inverters, cameras, sensors, etc.  One of the dangerous aspects of getting a higher-tech model, with highest trim, lots of stuff to break.

Quote
Many don't keep their cars longer than 5 years or so, so it's a moot point for you.

Yeah, I think it odd that so many people would want to have a car payment and high insurance and high taxes "forever".  I would rather spend the money on other things, and also save for later :)  My average car retention looks to be about 10.5 years.  Only had three motorcycles, first was a 250 starter and that was 2 years, then the ZRX for 11 years, and now the Concours is already 14.
34
Thanks for the suggestions and ideas.  I have set aside a week in June for start to finish so I don't feel rushed.

IIRC when I did the valves on my C10 the first time, it took me three days start to finish-I was on my own time, so there was no reason to rush.  After about the fifth or sixth time I cut the time in half with no wasted motion and no rush.  Just thinking, I hope I won't have to do the mirror bracket on the C14 a second time...
35
Open Forum / Re: New car time- shocking
« Last post by Strawboss on May 19, 2025, 08:18:58 AM »
 OK, well, good luck, from the amount you say you drive, the tranny and battery replacement won't be an issue for quite some time. Many don't keep their cars longer than 5 years or so, so it's a moot point for you.

36
Open Forum / Re: New car time- shocking
« Last post by maxtog on May 19, 2025, 04:55:53 AM »
Lexus LS500h and it's a VERY nice car but I can't stand the looks of the models with the gawping Basking Shark mouth grille.

THANK YOU.  I also find them to be absolutely hideous.  Everyone I know seems to think Toyota's grills are just horrible, and yet they persist with this yucky design year after year.  Honda went stupid with their hyper-angular crap, especially on the Acuras, but they heard the feedback and, year after year, cut back on it.

Quote
Nissan are also not doing great because of their financial situation.

Yeah, I hope things don't get worse for them and they dig themselves out.  Other than the issues with their CVT's, they make great vehicles.  Priced well, reliable, and very attractive.  They are very popular around here.
37
Open Forum / Re: New car time- shocking
« Last post by Boomer on May 19, 2025, 02:25:38 AM »
Toyota have only recently started to sell pure BEVs so not much choice there (bZ range).
They do most of their range in some form of Hybrid, but as you say those have complex transmissions and still run on gas, albeit more efficiently than pure gas vehicles.
I recently drove a Lexus LS500h and it's a VERY nice car but I can't stand the looks of the models with the gawping Basking Shark mouth grille.

On BEVs there is no transmission as such, just fixed reduction gears.
This is because electric motors produce peak torque at zero RPM, so there is no need for different gear ratios.
Typical car electric motors go from 0-10,000rpm which gives 0-130Mph with just one fixed gear ratio.
They will out-accelerate most equivalent gas vehicles even with the extra weight they carry, especially those with all 4 wheels driven.

BEV batteries typically should outlast the vehicle if driven normally. If you go drag racing or rag on it, then you will cause progressive damage to the battery, but that also applies to gas vehicles with the difference being that the damage is done to the motor/transmission instead.

I have a friend who bought a Tesla S-85 about 10 years ago and it has 110k miles on it and is still on the original battery. It has had to have a whole load of work done on the electronics but then it was one of the first mass production BEVs and Tesla's build quality is not what I would call good, certainly not up to Toyota standards. He still likes the car but he did spend $95,000 for it in 2015.

This is how BEV sales are currently going here in UK/EU.
https://www.best-selling-cars.com/europe/2025-march-q1-europe-best-selling-electric-car-models-and-brands/
Tesla are losing market share like crazy. Some of it because of their dated model range and some because of the association with Musk.
Nissan are also not doing great because of their financial situation.
38
Not on my C14, but on my C10 I have plastic welded with great success. I have also used the "staples" that stitch the plastic together with for sections that needed reinforcement.
I have not had great success with fibreglass or epoxy glues as the vibrations in the plastic eventually shakes the epoxy loose from the ABS (acrylic) plastic no matter how much you rough up the surface. The repair will last a year or 2 but eventually you end up having to do it again.
I have also used ABS Cement and it works well, but is best used mixed with powdered ABS as a filler.
I have yet to break any of the plastics on my C14 (touch wood!!!) and long may that continue!  8)
39
I have had good experience with JB Weld.  I think the key to using it correctly is to:

1) Roughen the surfaces so it has something to hold into.
2) Use some additional "structure" over the parts, like reinforcements, that are incorporated into the repair.  Something strong, like long/thin nails, or some of that fiberglass grid "tape" that is used for drywall repairs.
3) Use enough of the product to get around everything thickly.

I am sure other people may have some additional recommendations and tips.
40
When I got my 2016 Concours I was aware of some accident damage in the right mirror area.  It turned out the mirror mounting bracket (the same part number on every single C1400 ever made) had been broken and repaired with some material-looked like a glop of JB Weld or something similar.  I found that out when the mirror flew off the bike when riding on the interstate.  The mirror was there, and a second later it was gone, like it had disappeared.

I have the parts I need (silver mirrors no longer available, so it was either get two metallic spark black ones, or have one silver one and one black one), and I have a service manual to use to remove the upper cowling for access to the mirror mounting bracket.  However the mirrors mount through the upper cowling, the bracket goes under the gauges from mirror to mirror, and when the right mirror came off, it took a triangular piece out of the cowling-although that might have been broken when the accident happened. Also the back 3-4" of the bottom of the upper cowling is broken and held in place by one screw in the middle cowling.

I am not trying to make it look new, in fact I may just use duct tape on the back side of that little piece, but I guess I would like to 'glue' the triangular piece of plastic that goes between the mirror and the mounting bracket.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.  TIA


     
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10