Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: bbroj on July 17, 2011, 07:44:23 PM
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I just got back from a ride to a friend and fellow Connie riders house to swap ignitor boxes with him ,trying to see if I could cure my low rpm (1500 to 2200) stumble. My box failed according to the tests in the service manual in section 15 page 22. I tested my friends box prior to putting it in my bike, and it gave the same (failing) results. What I would like is for a few of you with good running C-10's to perform the tests and report back here, it takes less than 10 min. with an ohm meter. I'm wondering if both boxes were truly bad, or if there is a typo or other error in the chart in the manual. Both boxes I tested failed most if not all tests with regard to pins 4 and 5. The trouble with my bike is trying to hold a steady RPM near 2K, the bike surges and bucks. Even in neutral, I cannot hold 2000 RPM, it goes from 1800 and will not maintain 2k, it surges up. I am giong to recheck carb sync and try to sync at 2k. See my sig line for options and mods, the important stuff is all recent.
Thanks.
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so placing a box from a known corrctly running bike onto your bike, and it still exhibits the original probloems without resolve didn't tell you the that ain't the problem....????
sorry, but you have other issues going on, and I think they have to do with the rseperatory system.... i.e. ............... the dreaded carbs.
gimme them, or better yet send them to Steve, I haven't the time, nor you have the money, for me to make them work.
or, you can try them your self...
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It strongly suggested to me it's not the problem, and I mentioned in my post, I'm looking elsewhere. I just got my carbs back from SISF prior to this riding season, sorry that's not in my sig line here, I'll have to update that. However, it is entirely possible that both of the boxes I tested are bad and the problem is minor enough to be overlooked by the other owner, he has different carb work done on his bike (shims). I am also trying to discover if there is an issue with the shop manual, so that all here could share in what I may have discovered, I kinda thought that was the point of a forum environment, no?
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You know, I came across some info that goes like this - hook up a timing light or something to your electrical system. If the light fails in the RPM range then it is electrical. If the light stays on/consistent then it is something else like the carbs.
I don't remember the details, but if you "jump" a few wires coming from the ignitor and power them directly off the battery you can eliminate a short coming from one of these: key switch, kickstand switch, clutch switch, Kill switch. T-cro told me how to do it. Just make sure if you have battery tender pigtails, using the alligator clip ends on the non-batt side (plugged into bike pigtail) will result in the red clip being the negative, etc. For pins thru the wires I used safety pins because that left a nice big end to clip the alligator clip to.
I ordered new pickup coils for mine and they should be here Wed. I'll let you know if they work. (You did check your pickup coil gaps and they are in spec and equal, right?)
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the bike is running, and only has a problem at a set rpm range, albeit a narrow one at that..... he has substituted n alternative box from a supposed correctly running machine, and his bike still exhibits the same syndrome.....
are you getting a hint on this yet?
I'm sure even Steve will agree $#!+ happens during the shipping process, and might need to be looked at....your carbs may not be responding to the old fuel you had in your tank....you did drain and clean it didn't you.....????????????????????????????????????????????
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm?????????????????
carry on.
i'm out.
sorry, but I say this becaues I have spent hours on peoples carbs, put them on and ran the bike where I couldn't get my finger off the start button before it started, and synched the thing just by looking at the screws.... (so close they never wanted to be touched), only to have someone stick the tank back on (even though I told them to dump it, clean it, and put it on dry...and add CLEAN fuel) and had them call me a month later telling me the bike was F'd up........yeah. I hear ya. sorry, no rebates after 30 days.
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i just want to remind this is a complaint about na stumble in a 500 rpm range just off idle.....it ain't an electrical issue.
done.
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Good Lord...some people on this board are just plain miserable. I can't believe anyone would go to you for help in the first place. Obviously God-complexes are not reserved for the medical profession.
Thank you for being "out".
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The bike has been through multiple tanks of fuel, it was empty and clean when I put it back on. I brought this problem up earlier this Spring and SISF assured me that if I was still having problems, I needed to look elsewhere. As mentioned, I will re-sync the carbs, and I'll drain the bowls just for grins. The main point in my opening this topic was to see if we could confirm a problem with the manual, but I always welcome helpful advise on troubleshooting the bike, occasionally someone here offers that.
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You know, I came across some info that goes like this - hook up a timing light or something to your electrical system. If the light fails in the RPM range then it is electrical. If the light stays on/consistent then it is something else like the carbs.
I don't remember the details, but if you "jump" a few wires coming from the ignitor and power them directly off the battery you can eliminate a short coming from one of these: key switch, kickstand switch, clutch switch, Kill switch. T-cro told me how to do it. Just make sure if you have battery tender pigtails, using the alligator clip ends on the non-batt side (plugged into bike pigtail) will result in the red clip being the negative, etc. For pins thru the wires I used safety pins because that left a nice big end to clip the alligator clip to.
I ordered new pickup coils for mine and they should be here Wed. I'll let you know if they work. (You did check your pickup coil gaps and they are in spec and equal, right?)
Summit, good ideas, but with stick coils, I would not know where to connect a timing light, mine is inductive and picks up from a spark plug wire, which I don't have! I did check and set the air gap on the pickup coils, they were not even at the time, but it didn't fix the problem either. I'll be looking forward to the rusults you get with new pickup coils. In the meantime, when I burn off some of the gas in my tank, I'll drain the float bowls and re-sync the carbs, and try to do it at 2000 RPM to see if it helps.
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No takers on performing this test? I thought for sure I could interest 1 or 2 of you....
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Ok, tested my spare. I couldn't get a reading from 4 & 5. Some other pins checked out ok per manual, some others didn't. Don't know if that means anything or not. Maybe I have a bad box too, lol. That box works fine as verified last year when I was having other trouble.
Have't put my new pickup coils in yet. Maybe after I eat and it cools down a few degrees. It is 103 now and I figure my garage is 93-95.
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Thanks, Summit. That's kinda what I expected. Pins 4 and 5 were almost completely opposite of what the manual indicated. I believe yours and my boxes are fine, and there is a problem with the test procedure in the book.
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No takers on performing this test? I thought for sure I could interest 1 or 2 of you....
I just checked mine, still the OEM ignitor, all readings w/in specs. 1886-1993 Service Manual, 1994 Connie with 167k miles. I did paint the bike blue a few years ago, installed SteveJ's old Russell seat further back, and recently installed SiSF's sprocket mod. Other than that...
I have a slight burble till off idle, and can't wring her out past 128 w/o a tail wind.
Rick
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Hmmm, now I'm truely puzzled. If all of your readings are within spec, I wonder if something has changed in the post '93 bikes? Are the values for the rows corresponding to pins 4 and 5 all infinity?
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4-5 and 5-4 all infinity. If there was a change, it'd be int he back adendum pages, or should be.
See attached.
Rick
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Yup, same chart. I checked the supplement section, and didn't see anything for those measurements. Now the tough question, does anyone know what pins 4 and 5 do, and are they significant to performance?
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I just installed new pickup coils. 15 minutes of test riding with a lot of it in the trouble range and no hint of misfire. I think the problem is solved. Will verify Thursday on a longer ride.
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That's the same chart as in my '84-'90 GPz900R (aka ZX900) manual. The numbers I wrote down a few years ago were all in tolerance. Can't remember what meter I used, but supposedly that will make a difference.
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Summit, glad to hear you believe your trouble is resolved, keep us posted after a longer ride!
I traced the wiring in the manual and confirmed colors on the bike, the two pins in question (4 and 5) are the solid green and black that go to the coils, and the black is also tapped for the tach. Rick and GeeBeav are stating that all of their readings are within range, presumably NO ONE is using the Kawasaki "special tool", but a standard VOM, as I am. Once again, my readings aren't even close, opposite end of the scale in fact. My bike, and several others, run with the readings I am getting, but I'm wondering if a CDI box with the correct readings would make a noticable difference? TCro seems to be the resident coil/ignition guru, any input on what I may be looking at here?
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I would be willing to bet that the kawasaki specail tool is probably just a version of this
http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Digital-Multimeters/Fluke-88V.htm?PID=56148 (http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Digital-Multimeters/Fluke-88V.htm?PID=56148)
which includes the 10 meg ohm input impedance to protect the circuits your checking. Thats why we use them in aviation.
Also, I am on my third IC box. As part of trouble shooting I used the same chart. Its always worked for me. Interesting note, the two boxes that quit me were bad on pins 4 and 5.
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I would be willing to bet that the kawasaki specail tool is probably just a version of this
http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Digital-Multimeters/Fluke-88V.htm?PID=56148 (http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Digital-Multimeters/Fluke-88V.htm?PID=56148)
which includes the 10 meg ohm input impedance to protect the circuits your checking. Thats why we use them in aviation.
The specified kawasaki "hand tester" is analog - there were very few, if any, hand-held DMM's available when this manual was published.
Input impedance is irrevalent when testing ohms - the meter's open-circuit test voltage is the variable here. A digital meter's typical 2.5 volt test voltage may yield a different reading than a Simpson 260's 1.5 or 9 volts (depending on range).
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What were the symptoms of the ones that failed? Did the bike still run (mine does)? I am wondering if several of us are running bad CDI boxes and don't even know it. The one I used to test gave the same readings, so I still have no comparison to a tested good box.
I have and used a Fluke 8021B, which is also 10 meg input on all scales. The Simpson 260 I used initially, well, I know it to be a quality meter, but I can't find the specification for the input resistance.
EDIT: I should know better than to post when the kindly red message pops up telling me someone has posted while I was typing and I may want to review my post. Nah!
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bbroj, the original box would drop two cylinders once warmed up. I could hit it with cold spray and bring them back. The second one was a $25 ebay box that worked for a few months then developed a miss all the time. I got another one from ebay and so far I'm good. I believe what killed the first box was the regulator going out on me and allowing the alternator to pump out upwards of 17 volts at rpm. It killed the battery, then with new battery and regulator installed it had the hot missfire.
GeeBeev, your correct. Most tasks I use an ohmeter for specify low volt and 10 meg input, but its the low volt thats most important. I didn't think it through all the way before posting.
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Thanks, so it seems like I'm still on the lookout for a CDI box that tests out good to swap for mine to see if there is a change. Outback Jon, you still watching this thread? If your offer is still open, it may end up being at the National (I assume you will be there?). Weekends are in short supply, and Kathy and I will be taking our first run in the new-to-us RV this weekend, so that's out. If we were taking the bikes with us, as we plan to do in the future, it would be perfect, as we are camping in Saugerties.
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Thanks, so it seems like I'm still on the lookout for a CDI box that tests out good to swap for mine to see if there is a change. Outback Jon, you still watching this thread? If your offer is still open, it may end up being at the National (I assume you will be there?). Weekends are in short supply, and Kathy and I will be taking our first run in the new-to-us RV this weekend, so that's out. If we were taking the bikes with us, as we plan to do in the future, it would be perfect, as we are camping in Saugerties.
Not going to make the National. I work midnights, so if a weekday works for you, let me know. We could make it dinner instead of lunch if necessary.
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Remember, you can try another IC box in your bike OR maybe someone will be game to let you try your box in their bike to see if it makes theirs run bad.
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Jon, sorry to hear that you won't be making the National, and the fact that you're working midnights (BTDT :() If Kathy and/or I have time before the National, I/we may still be able to take you up on the offer. If not, I'm willing to bet that someone at the National will be willing to oblige me.
Summit, that was my hope all along, to swap with someone whose bike runs well, and the box tests per the manual, and see if either of us noticed a difference.
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I just checked mine, still the OEM ignitor, all readings w/in specs. 1886-1993 Service Manual, 1994 Connie with 167k miles. I did paint the bike blue a few years ago, installed SteveJ's old Russell seat further back, and recently installed SiSF's sprocket mod. Other than that...
I have a slight burble till off idle, and can't wring her out past 128 w/o a tail wind.
Rick
Rick, I just met with Outback_Jon and tested his CDI box as well. At first I thought his tested out as per the manual and I went to check mine against his. I realized, almost by accident, I had tested Jon's in reverse polarity according to the manual and it DOES matter. When tested in the polarity dictated by the manual, his tests the same as mine. Not accusing you of shoddy workmanship by any means, but is there any chance when you tested yours, the polarities were reversed? I'm still wondering if there is a possible issue with the procedure in the book. If you tested correctly, there seem to be a lot of these units that seem to run fine but fail the pass/fail in the book. I'm still confused... (no big surprise, I know :nuts:)
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Good Lord...some people on this board are just plain miserable. I can't believe anyone would go to you for help in the first place. Obviously God-complexes are not reserved for the medical profession.
Thank you for being "out".
just saw your quip, very nice. Did you know that there is also a book called "motcycle mechanics for dummies" ? (I like your avitar, it fits well....) Might want to read that book, and about 30 other specific ones, spend 40 years repairing bikes, and hold the Tech Editor officer's postion for the COG for acouple years, along with a few thousand happy customers here that recieved concise and accurate assistance before spouting again.....
in the words of the famed Will Sonnet (old cowboy show, likely before you were born)
"No brag, just fact...." http://www.fiftiesweb.com/western-5.htm (http://www.fiftiesweb.com/western-5.htm)
;)
:hitfan: :stirpot: :rotflmao:
http://youtu.be/9j1qkorFszY (http://youtu.be/9j1qkorFszY)
on a lighter note,
BBroj, have you figured this one out yet?
or is it still running bad?
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just saw your quip, very nice. Did you know that there is also a book called "motcycle mechanics for dummies" ? (I like your avitar, it fits well....) Might want to read that book, and about 30 other specific ones, spend 40 years repairing bikes, and hold the Tech Editor officer's postion for the COG for acouple years, along with a few thousand happy customers here that recieved concise and accurate assistance before spouting again.....
in the words of the famed Will Sonnet (old cowboy show, likely before you were born)
"No brag, just fact...." http://www.fiftiesweb.com/western-5.htm (http://www.fiftiesweb.com/western-5.htm)
;)
:hitfan: :stirpot: :rotflmao:
Old tv clips...holy- you need to join your local senior center and play some card games or something.
Nice that you can still recall ALL the way back to your elementry school years in an attempt at an insult, though.
Those one-room school houses did produce some incredibly clever kiddies that are still alive!
You must have been a hoot before electricity!!! :rotflmao:
Those that need to pat their own backs are just sorry people- self esteem issues. Too bad you didn't address that earlier in your life. Probably too little time to take care of it now. :'(
You really do have my pity, Old Man. That's about all I can muster for the miserable likes of you.
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... but is there any chance when you tested yours, the polarities were reversed? ...
Anything is possible, but I stand by my readings. I'm using an analog Triplett VOM. (digital is just a fad ;) )
Something to ponder, are all the 'bad' IC units tested with the same multi-meter?
Rick
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According to the schematic for the J Box here http://www.cog-online.org/clubportal/clubdocs/1328/ConcoursJ-BoxSchematicGBY2.pdf (http://www.cog-online.org/clubportal/clubdocs/1328/ConcoursJ-BoxSchematicGBY2.pdf)
pins 4 and 5 should show infinite resistance. Those points look like an uninstalled option circuit.
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According to the schematic for the J Box here http://www.cog-online.org/clubportal/clubdocs/1328/ConcoursJ-BoxSchematicGBY2.pdf (http://www.cog-online.org/clubportal/clubdocs/1328/ConcoursJ-BoxSchematicGBY2.pdf)
pins 4 and 5 should show infinite resistance. Those points look like an uninstalled option circuit.
The testing that's been ongoing at the moment is of the ignitor box, and not the J-box.
Rick - We tested bbroj's and my ignitor at the same time, with the same analog meter. I haven't noticed any issues with my bike, so I'm assuming mine is good. His tested the same as mine, with infinity (open) between pin 4 and 5, but pins 4 and 5 to any other pin had continuity. (With resistance)
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Anything is possible, but I stand by my readings. I'm using an analog Triplett VOM. (digital is just a fad ;) )
Something to ponder, are all the 'bad' IC units tested with the same multi-meter?
Rick
I thought about that myself, and I did use different meters just to be sure. I used a Triplett VOM that I carry on my bike to test Jon's and a few others, including my own. At home, I tested mine using a Simpson 260 as well as a digital at work for comparison. At this point I am convinced that my ignitor is not an issue, but I am not yet convinced that the book is accurate on the test procedure. I even swapped with SNARF and we rode with each others ignitors, neither of us noticed a difference. I am becomming more and more convinced after seeing and hearing many other C-10's at the rally, my bike may be not be doing anything out of the ordinary. a can of Seafoam over the next few tanks just be be sure things are squeaky clean, and I forget it and ride!!
P.S. What a great time at the rally, sorry more of you couldn't have been there. We're making plans for Eureka Springs, Ak, starting now!
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.....I am becomming more and more convinced after seeing and hearing many other C-10's at the rally, my bike may be not be doing anything out of the ordinary. a can of Seafoam over the next few tanks just be be sure things are squeaky clean, and I forget it and ride!!
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good to hear that, I am glad that the problem was not as serious as you once thought, and that is easily cured, something I eluded to initially from the symptoms you noted. I really feel a bit sorry that your wife had to interject, and sling insults during the initial stages, when I was trying to make a point (albeit a bit wrong in my mannerism, but I was trying to prevent you from "hunting dragons"), it still angers me that she found that necessary, but hey, I'll just consider the source. Glad the bike is fine, and feel free to contact me for any help I may be able to provide on maintaining and servicing the Concours motorcycle.
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good to hear that, I am glad that the problem was not as serious as you once thought, and that is easily cured, something I eluded to initially from the symptoms you noted. I really feel a bit sorry that your wife had to interject, and sling insults during the initial stages, when I was trying to make a point (albeit a bit wrong in my mannerism, but I was trying to prevent you from "hunting dragons"), it still angers me that she found that necessary, but hey, I'll just consider the source. Glad the bike is fine, and feel free to contact me for any help I may be able to provide on maintaining and servicing the Concours motorcycle.
If you re read my initial post, I never asked for help with the running problem, just to see if the CDI test in the book was accurate, which you never did bother to reply to or help with. Telling me "I don't have the time, nor you the money..." and
"you did drain and clean it didn't you.....??
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm??" among other snide remarks touting your resume' and superior skills were to me, clear opening shots in the insults exchanged. My choice is to ignore such replies and focus on those that choose to offer the help requested. My wife tends to say what's on her mind and she nor I will apologize for it. Now you continue to insult my wife, offer me what seems to be a half baked appology (albeit a bit wrong in my mannerism, but I was trying to prevent you from "hunting dragons") and an open invitation to come to you for help? Keep it!
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I fully read, and understood your initial post where you had a stumble, and felt it was electrical. I also understood before my posting you found discrepencies in the tests as per the manual, no issue. I offered an explanation/statement in an attempt to prevent you from chasing a problem that in my mind was not related to what I felt was chasing the wrong suspect in the running issue, which you DID state in the initial post....you had an issue with the way the bike was running.
My last statement was not asking for an appology, it was just to see the final results, of all the effort put in trying to find the cause for the running issue, which in reality you seem to agree may be some fuel issues.
I did not make the last post with intent to insult, and kept it very congenial, I have know idea why someone would be so adament as you are at this point to look past the sincere notation that I was happy to hear there wasn't a "difficult to find electrical problem" that was beyond the realms of what we should find in performing those electrical troubleshooting steps you all performed, that still would have the machine performing incorrectly.
I was also sincere in my statement that if you needed any assistance I would offer it, why you would belittle this with such a base response as you did, leads me to believe I am speaking to people with a bit of a the same attitude I was initally slapped for.
Sorry I could not attend the National, I would have rather talked face to face to discuss the issues you were having with your bike, or any other issues you seem to have with me on a personal level.
Best of luck, and ride safe.
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"it still angers me that she found that necessary, but hey, I'll just consider the source. "
"I did not make the last post with intent to insult, and kept it very congenial"
Really?