Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: throb on July 15, 2011, 04:10:33 AM
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In the seemingly never ending quest to modify and improve, my next mod will be to fill the handlebars (starting with the left since it's the worst, just to see if it makes any difference) with #9 lead shot to decrease the buzz in the 4k rpm range. Anyone happen to know how much shot is needed?
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If anyone is interested, the magic number is approximately 10oz of shot per side. :thumbs:
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If that does not work, I have had great success changing the front wheel bearing.
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Front Fork brace and Murphs Bar End weights will do wonders also. And the fork brace will improve handeling also. JMHO.
Good luck and ride safe.
Greg
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So did the #9 help?
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In the seemingly never ending quest to modify and improve, my next mod will be to fill the handlebars (starting with the left since it's the worst, just to see if it makes any difference) with #9 lead shot to decrease the buzz in the 4k rpm range. Anyone happen to know how much shot is needed?
NO, DON"T USE #9!!!! There is a weep hole on the throttle side that #9 can slip through and cause the twist throttle to grind or even jam. Use #6 or #4 as they are too big to fit in the hole. Ask me how I found this out. :yikes:
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Just plug the hole with some stiff wax and/or some elec tape. I never felt the need with my bike but if I did I would have melted the lead and poured them solid as I think it would really help to "weight" down the vibes.
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I had some plastic tubes that fit well inside the bars, and put some "bird shot" in them, (not sure what gauge number), sealed the ends with electrical tape, and slipped this "cartridge" into the bars. I didn't fill it totally full, my theory being let the shot sort of vibrate around and resonate or whatever. I never had much buzz to start with but it seemed to help. I think I got more results out of reshimming and torquing the engine mount bolts. Also I have the heavy-type Throttlemeisters. What I don't seem to have now is buzz. Whatever works for you.
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I had some plastic tubes that fit well inside the bars, and put some "bird shot" in them, (not sure what gauge number), sealed the ends with electrical tape, and slipped this "cartridge" into the bars. I didn't fill it totally full, my theory being let the shot sort of vibrate around and resonate or whatever. I never had much buzz to start with but it seemed to help. I think I got more results out of reshimming and torquing the engine mount bolts. Also I have the heavy-type Throttlemeisters. What I don't seem to have now is buzz. Whatever works for you.
If bars are not filled to 101 % full packed solid you can make matters worse; you want to stop the bars from ringing nor do you want anything inside ringing either. I'm with you on everything else including the Heavy ThrottleMeisters too.
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If bars are not filled to 101 % full packed solid you can make matters worse; you want to stop the bars from ringing nor do you want anything inside ringing either. I'm with you on everything else including the Heavy ThrottleMeisters too.
Well, it was just a theory......I'd try pulling them out and do the pack-full style, but it's smooth enough right now I'm too lazy to mess with it. Thanks, Tony.
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Well, it was just a theory......I'd try pulling them out and do the pack-full style, but it's smooth enough right now I'm too lazy to mess with it. Thanks, Tony.
I hear ya there..... I've needed to clean the idle circuits on my carbs since last July! I just keep using the choke lever to smooth her out until I feel like doing the deed.
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I've found the Genmar risers noticably increase the felt "buzz".
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So did the #9 help?
Yes it did. Much less noticeable now. It wasn't horrible before, but none the less, noticable. And since it was the worst in the RPM range where I spend most of my riding time :o I wanted it reduced as much as possible. This did the trick.
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NO, DON"T USE #9!!!! There is a weep hole on the throttle side that #9 can slip through
Where is this weep hole of which you speak? I had my grips off earlier this year, but truthfully never paid attention for any holes. The only one I know of is the threaded hole on the end of the bar which the bolt that holds the end weight threads into.
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Front Fork brace and Murphs Bar End weights will do wonders also.
:thumbs: on the fork brace. I have that on (from Murph), but in lieu of spending the $$ on the bar end weights I wanted to try this first since it would be a more frugal approach and that's just more $ for :chugbeer:!
The weights would look cooler, but probably the only thing much different is the 10 minutes more per side it took to remove the bar to hold it upright while funneling the shot inside.
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Where is this weep hole of which you speak? I had my grips off earlier this year, but truthfully never paid attention for any holes. The only one I know of is the threaded hole on the end of the bar which the bolt that holds the end weight threads into.
The only hole I noticed was the one that the little peg on the switchgear goes into to keep the switchgear from twisting around the bar. So if the switchgear is in place, no buckshot coming through that hole.
I have also done the lead buckshot, and it helps I think. I've done it on my last several 4 cylinder bikes.
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Getting rid of the "tuning fork" handlebars and converting to standard 7/8" did the trick for me. A KB bar adaptor and a set of $15 Bikemaster Daytona GP bars. Just saying in case the shot thing doesn't work out.
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I've found the Genmar risers noticably increase the felt "buzz".
The reason for this is it increases the "tuning fork" affect of the stock bars. The longer the tuning fork sections are the more vibration they can make. I had the same problem when I added the GenMars to my stock bars. I couldn't ride 50 miles without my hands going numb. After switching to the standard 7/8" handlebars I can ride 250 miles with no problem.
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The shot decreased the vibration quite a lot. There is still some buzz, (but what inline 4 doesn't have) but nothing even close to what it was like before. It was time and money well spent.
What type of handlebar are you using, or is there anyone out there who has converted to regular bars have recommendations/knowledge what bar(s) are close to the same angle/setback, etc as the OE bars with risers? It may be a mod looked at in the future.
Jim, I also see in your web photos you have setback plates on your Connie. How much closer do they bring the bars to you?
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Getting rid of the "tuning fork" handlebars and converting to standard 7/8" did the trick for me. A KB bar adaptor and a set of $15 Bikemaster Daytona GP bars. Just saying in case the shot thing doesn't work out.
Where did you find the KB bar adaptor?
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Where did you find the KB bar adaptor?
Murphs of course.
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The shot decreased the vibration quite a lot. There is still some buzz, (but what inline 4 doesn't have) but nothing even close to what it was like before. It was time and money well spent.
What type of handlebar are you using, or is there anyone out there who has converted to regular bars have recommendations/knowledge what bar(s) are close to the same angle/setback, etc as the OE bars with risers? It may be a mod looked at in the future.
Jim, I also see in your web photos you have setback plates on your Connie. How much closer do they bring the bars to you?
Those bars are Daytona GP bars from Bikemaster about $15 to $20. The setback plate is homemade and brings the bars about 1-1/2" closer to the rider. That setup may look unconventional (two sets of KB risers, a KB bar adaptor, and the setback plate) but it works great.
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Necessity is the mother of invention! :thumbs: