Kawasaki Concours Forum
Introductions - Tell us a bit about yourself => Introductions => Topic started by: tk42116 on August 02, 2024, 07:10:33 AM
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Hello all. Headed tomorrow to look at a 2011 Concours 14, with around 20k miles. Started riding back in 2009 on a Ninja ZX6-R, sold it in 2014 to pay some bills, and got a 2018 Kawasaki Vulcan S 650 back in 2021. Last year bought a 2021 Kawasaki Z900RS Café, and sold the Vulcan earlier this week to pay for the Concours. I'm a little hesitant when I read about the weight of the Concours, but after all the videos (both good & bad) I still cant help but want one. I'll most likely use it for commuting to work throughout the week, and any long trips on the weekend, and still have my Z900RS Café for my around town fun bike. Some of us locally are also planning a moto-camping trip, so it would work out perfect for that. Fingers crossed everything checks out on it tomorrow and that I'll be joining the C14 ownership soon
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Welcome aboard. Hope it works out for you. Keep in mind that 20k is right near where the first valve service is supposed to be done and is an excellent bargaining chip to get a lower price on the bike.
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Welcome aboard. Hope it works out for you. Keep in mind that 20k is right near where the first valve service is supposed to be done and is an excellent bargaining chip to get a lower price on the bike.
Thanks, yes I'm hoping to talk him down a little bit, but he's pretty fairly priced currently. in general, how much do the valves need shimmed on the first check/service? I've seen conflicting statements that some people don't even check until 60k miles, and that they're perfectly fine still
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Depends on the bike. I did mine at 30 or 35k. They all needed shimming, but only two were technically out of spec. There are so many factors that affect valve and seat wear, that it's impossible to know until you check. If you were the original owner, always kept the RPM down, changed oil frequently and never rode when it was hot out, you could probably way with some certainty that you could hold off. If you're like me and you ride even when it's 100+ degrees out, and get on the freeway at the limiter, definitely do it.
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If it has plenty power and doesn’t rattle then it’s ok.
Some people check them when the bikes are new finding that most of them are tight or most are loose.
They just have a different “feel” to the Kawasaki engine builders who you have to believe know what they are doing.
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If it has plenty power and doesn’t rattle then it’s ok.
Some people check them when the bikes are new finding that most of them are tight or most are loose.
They just have a different “feel” to the Kawasaki engine builders who you have to believe know what they are doing.
When you say rattle what do you mean?
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If it has plenty power then the valves are not too tight and losing compression.
If it doesn’t rattle then the valves are not too loose and don’t need shimming.
By the way the spark plugs are made by NGK specially for a handful of high revving motorcycles.
Read the NGK website. They guarantee the plugs for 100,000 miles.
Kawasaki only want you to change them more often to give the poor pennyless workshops some more money.
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I end up finding a small shop about 2 hours away, that the mechanic also rides a C14. we chatted for a bit, and I plan on continuing to ride it and having the valve clearance checked in a few months by him.
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Welcome aboard TK ;D
That 15k mile valve check is, as TyneSideBob said, just a way to get more work for Kawi dealers.
Outside North America that check is every 25k miles.
I had mine done at 26k and 4 shims were changed along with the spark plugs. The old plugs looked nearly new and the shims were only changed to put them in the middle of the range as they were close to the limit, but technically still within the tolerance.
She is currently at 80k miles and I am about to get the valves & plugs done for the 2nd time.
She just did 2400 miles to Austria and back without a hiccup.