Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: MichiGlenn on March 15, 2014, 07:12:16 PM
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I'm new to the C10, having owned older Honda 750's for years. I'm looking at adding a sound system soon, and eventually additional lighting and possibly a banshee horn.
I'm wondering the best approach for tapping into power for these. My instinct and past experience say power the radio from the ignition switch wiring, driving lights from the amber running lights, and running direct from the battery to an air horn, with a relay from the horn switch. Am I on the right track here?
Also, from the 750 I'm used to running into the limits of the charging system's capacity (turn signal slow if the radio's on etc.). Is this an issue on the Connie?
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I just purchased a farkle box from Eastern Beaver. It looks to be useful for your application.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html)
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I do not hook anything up without it running through a relay and/or accessory fuse block. I fried a wiring harness on a bike many years ago, so I learned my lesson the hard way.
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I do not hook anything up without it running through a relay and/or accessory fuse block. I fried a wiring harness on a bike many years ago, so I learned my lesson the hard way.
+1. Using the ignition switch circuit to trigger a relay for your driving lights and radio is fine. Trying to draw the power you want from that same circuit will (at the very least) result in blown fuses.
I don't have one of these myself (yet), but it is on the short list of farkles: (From Murph's, of course!)
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_92&products_id=144 (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_92&products_id=144)
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I used something similar to this to route almost all extra power loads and the stock head light thru:
http://crimpsupply.com/6-position-atc-ato-led-fuse-panel.html?gclid=CMj0v5j0mL0CFYuXOgodSCYAtw (http://crimpsupply.com/6-position-atc-ato-led-fuse-panel.html?gclid=CMj0v5j0mL0CFYuXOgodSCYAtw)
The LEDs will light up if you have a bad fuse. Cool.
It is powered using a relay triggered by the headlight wire, so no power supplied until the bike starts, under normal conditions. Power comes directly from the battery using a 0 amp fuse. I used a 40 amp relay. The 30 amp relay crapped out after a couple of years.
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On all my bikes I use FUZEBLOCK for my electric farkles.
Made a simple bracket from scrap aluminum that was just strong enough to be bent with channel locks. originally made a brack perfect size, but then opted to go bigger. (cut with dremel "cut-off" tool, drilled 6 holes with drill press)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/Connie%2014/Fuzeblock%20install/1.jpg)
Here one can see moving the fuse to the right will result in "switched" power, when the key is on it will be juiced, in current state of fuses it is constant power. I put the bolts where the extra part goes to the inside of the FUZEblock rather than hang out the bottom of the mount. I used the short bolts in the set.
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/Connie%2014/Fuzeblock%20install/2.jpg)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/Connie%2014/Fuzeblock%20install/4.jpg)
Came out fairly nice
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/Connie%2014/Fuzeblock%20install/3.jpg)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/Connie%2014/Fuzeblock%20install/5.jpg)
Then the first thing I do after is install a USB solution for phone/GPS/MP3 player/text/email/Netflix/etc
Under the friggin knife it goes
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/Connie%2014/20130225_185118.jpg)
Ok, we all know how to wire and soldier so let's skip all that and right to the finished product
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/Connie%2014/20130225_194159.jpg)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/Connie%2014/20130225_194124.jpg)
sorry about the crappy phone pics right there^^^
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^ Nice there, #9334
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Installed Murph's Fuse Block, never looked back! Draws power directly off the battery, with a switched lead off of the brake light circuit to activate the fuse block.
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144 (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144)
Keep in mind that Connie alternators can come up a bit short with too many farkles/too much amp draw, which is why some have upgraded the alternator (ZZR 1200 I think?). Finding the more powerful alternator is the trick, of course, as they are all used alternators at this point... At least AFAIK I don't think anyone makes new ones, just rebuilt ones.
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Thanks for the input. Probably time to make up an order for Murph's. It's starting to look like spring might not be cancelled this year...just postponed!
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I do not hook anything up without it running through a relay and/or accessory fuse block. I fried a wiring harness on a bike many years ago, so I learned my lesson the hard way.
Best advise yet, I even beef up the ground side too. Amperage is pulled from both positive and negative wires.
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Got the fuse block from Murph's today! Looks perfect for a custom fit! Now to find time... Thanks TCro for the advice on grounding. I've been intending to work on those since I saw SISF's free power posts.