Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: RapidRoy on May 30, 2011, 05:34:27 PM
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I keep reading hear and there about Connies getting hydrolocked. Sounds like something I don't want to have happen. I thought I'd see if someone could provide a lucid description of what exactly it is, how it happens, and what's the best way of preventing it from happing.
Thanks all in advance.
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Hydrolock - A fuel leak (bad petcock/carb floats) runs straight gas into cylinder. You come out try to start it and the liquid gas will NOT compress - bad stuff happens! :o ??? :-[ :'( Problem is 2 things that go wrong at the same time:
1) vacuum petcock fails allowing fuel to flow straight to the carbs when they do NOT need ANY.
2) carb floats stick allowing the fuel to flow straight into the cylinder head.
Then you hit the start button and all sorts of things get bent.
See topic http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=276.0 (http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=276.0) for a description of how to tell how bad the damage is AFTER you think you've had one.
Steve in sunny FL is the go to guy for prevention - http://sites.google.com/site/shoodabenengineering/home (http://sites.google.com/site/shoodabenengineering/home) - his carb service with overflow tubes is the preferred "fix".
You see a puddle of gas under your bike - do NOT try to start it!
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Good topic for those of us new to the C10.
How long ago did motorcycles go to the Prime/On/Reserve route on the petcocks?
Wouldn't a "normal" petcock, Off/On/Reserve be better?
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Wouldn't a "normal" petcock, Off/On/Reserve be better?
Yes, but a lot of people say they can't remember to turn it off.
No problem for others. Myself and a lot of others use a Pingel or Bermen or other aftermarket manual petcock.
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Not to hijack but this is related...
Without an "Off", how does one shut off the fuel when removing the tank for service?
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Not to hijack but this is related...
Without an "Off", how does one shut off the fuel when removing the tank for service?
Leave it in the on position; petcock is open closed by vacuum diaphragm. If it leaks when disconnected then you know you have problem
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Good topic for those of us new to the C10.
How long ago did motorcycles go to the Prime/On/Reserve route on the petcocks?
Wouldn't a "normal" petcock, Off/On/Reserve be better?
Vacuum operated petcock's were designed as a "safety feature" - engine stops, fuel stops. Supposed to help prevent fuel spills/fires when bike goes down...
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Go to mower repair shop. Get $3.50 Briggs & Stratton fuel shutoff. Install. Use.
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Go to mower repair shop. Get $3.50 Briggs & Stratton fuel shutoff. Install. Use.
That will not help. That only makes it worse. The problem is two fold. The main issue is the float valve leaking and the fuel having no other place to go but into the engines cylinders. The manual thing just allows you to leave it on and flowing even more so than a properly working automatic petcock. So lets assume the stock automatic petcock fails and flows all the time, that would be the same as you turning on a manual valve before starting the bike up. It only takes a few seconds to fill a cylinder. The same thing occurs when shutting off the bike. The few seconds it takes for you to shut if off right away (if you remember) is enough to cause hydro lock.
The best option is over flow tubes
With overflow tube you can have a float valve leak and leave the petcock open or have the automatic petcock fail (or turn it to PRIME) and you will know right away when there is an issue and you will not have hydro lock. Fix the problem, do not add to the problem. If you still want to install a manual fuel valve that is fine, but you really need overflow tubes installed or you will still run the risk of hydro lock
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Thanks all for the great info. Would an occasional preventative rebuild of the petcock be in order? If so, how often should it be rebuilt? Something like every 30K miles or 5 years whichever comes first... I suspect it has more to do with time than miles.
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"The main issue is the float valve leaking" (as stated above) - Petcock is secondary cause. Fix carb issue 1st - then if the petcock goes south, no Hydrolock problem... OH, BTW - petcock rebuilds are a whole other discussion! ???
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That will not help. That only makes it worse. The problem is two fold. The main issue is the float valve leaking and the fuel having no other place to go but into the engines cylinders. The manual thing just allows you to leave it on and flowing even more so than a properly working automatic petcock. So lets assume the stock automatic petcock fails and flows all the time, that would be the same as you turning on a manual valve before starting the bike up. It only takes a few seconds to fill a cylinder. The same thing occurs when shutting off the bike. The few seconds it takes for you to shut if off right away (if you remember) is enough to cause hydro lock.
The best option is over flow tubes
With overflow tube you can have a float valve leak and leave the petcock open or have the automatic petcock fail (or turn it to PRIME) and you will know right away when there is an issue and you will not have hydro lock. Fix the problem, do not add to the problem. If you still want to install a manual fuel valve that is fine, but you really need overflow tubes installed or you will still run the risk of hydro lock
How does that not work?
Vacuum operated petcock fails-doesn't turn off the fuel. How does having a shutoff valve after the failed petcock make the situation worse? If you don't turn it off (your fault) it's just like it not being there. And a properly working automatic petcock DOESN'T FLOW when shut off. So the bike doesn't know the shutoff valve is there even if it's on. There is no fuel flow, so how does it make the situation worse?
What FIXES the problem is carbs that don't constantly fail for this reason. Replaceable seats would go a long way towards that goal. And ya don't know they have failed unless the petcock fails. Being able to turn off the fuel and doing so prevents the problem.
Now, tell me how turning off the gas makes the situation worse. Isn't that the job of the factory unit? problem is, it stops doing its job. And it's not a matter of IF it fails but WHEN.