. . . .Is there any reason to go SS with the . . . clutch?The front brake is a high force/low travel application. The rubber hose stretching allows more travel than you want.
Have steel lines myself - and doubt theres much to be said for either way - BUT: while you're doing that, install SPEED BLEEDERS!+1
They're the bomb. I have alotta farkles, but the best mod I've done is the speedbleeders.
Is there any reason to go SS with the rear brake line? How about the clutch? Just for completeness sake?
Do either of those really make that much difference? I wouldn't want the rear brake to be even more prone to lockup.
SS will NEVER need replacement due to exposure to the elements....Tony when you switched over to DOT 5 how did you flush your system. Or did you even need to? I know some/most brake fluids are not compatible with other grades. I have heard that DOT 5 will not attack paint like DOT 3
Switch over to a dual piston caliper as several of us have done and you will find that the stronger caliper is easier to modulate as it applies pressure over a larger surface area and is thus less likely to lock up. I also use DOT 5 Silicone based Brake Fluid as it is a softer fluid and has some built in compressibility which again makes for brakes that are less likely to lock up when over applied and yet are just as strong when needed as you just squeeze or press through the compressibility.
Tony, can you elaborate on the dual piston caliper? Is there some kind of upgrade for it?
Where are the SS lines found? Murphs does not carry them unless I missed them. ThanksYep, you missed them.
Yep, you missed them.
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1_29_34
Tony, can you elaborate on the dual piston caliper? Is there some kind of upgrade for it?
Tony when you switched over to DOT 5 how did you flush your system. Or did you even need to? I know some/most brake fluids are not compatible with other grades. I have heard that DOT 5 will not attack paint like DOT 3