So... that's... your wife, then, Steve?
Thanks Steve. Can you give us a general idea what kind of riding was done in the 6500 miles?The oil had about 1100 miles of commuting, 12 each way. I take it easy in the am as it is dark out, but I'm not afraid to let 'er sing on the way home, two lane rural.
Interstate, highways, city
Speedy or regular riding/rpms
What oil filter brand and was it cartridge or spin-on
Question for you guys.
My bike has 11,000 miles on it and has always been run with Castrol full synthetic 10w 40.
I also have an 81 VW diesel Rabbit pick up using Rotella 15w 40 dino and it would be handy and a heck of a lot cheaper to use the same in the bike also.
When you switch from synthetic to dino, do you change the oil at a very short interval again to get rid of traces of the synthetic or is that a non issue?
No issue whatsoever...
I've run Mobil 1 15W50 Full Synthetic Oil year round for years and I find that the shifting remains smooth from oil change to oil change...I have never had smooth shifting from my Connie. I think it is just the nature of some bikes. The smoothest I get is when accelerating and shifting about above 4k rpm.
So most likely you are using improper weight oil in at least the Connie as it specs 10-40.
And yet I have never had a problem with any of my clutches using oil with friction modifiers. Indeed, reports I have seen show that most people have not had issues using those kinds of oil. It appears to be a minority in that regard.
If you used 5-30 from new and esecially in a hot climate and had an engine problem I doubt Kawaski would honor the warranty.Kawasaki has never been consumer friendly.
If you used 5-30 from new and esecially in a hot climate and had an engine problem I doubt Kawaski would honor the warranty.Not really an issue for a C10 as the bikes ceased production in 2006, warranties have expired.