Check the battery connections and give the battery a charge. Also, check the fluid in battery if it isn't maintenance free.
Check the battery connections and give the battery a charge. Also, check the fluid in battery if it isn't maintenance free.
Do not automatically assume it is the battery. Let's say you buy a new battery and install it. What do you have to do? Yep, R&R the connectors. The bake then starts so you think the battery fixed it when actually it was a poor connection at a perfectly good battery. Diagnose the problem before buying parts. Rule out the simple FREE fixes first.
What they almost never do is go click and loose all power.Actually this is exactly what a bad battery does. I have had it happen to me a few times (and heard of many times on different forums) and the reason is a crack in the metal connection(s) inside the battery. This is why you take it to be tested with a load or put a volt meter on the battery and watch.
Actually this is exactly what a bad battery does. I have had it happen to me a few times (and heard of many times on different forums) and the reason is a crack in the metal connection(s) inside the battery. This is why you take it to be tested with a load or put a volt meter on the battery and watch.
What happens is you will get a full 12.5 to 13 volts and everything seems to run perfect until you crank the engine and that added load breaks that internal connection and then after a few minutes it joins back up again very similar to a thermal fuse/breaker.
Sorry guys. I had to go out of town for a job. Actually on a musical cruise as s ecurity :-). Took the battery up to the auto store and had it tested. It was bad. Got a new battery and meter and everything immediately went for a ride. Thanks for all the advice.