Just started my maintenance yesterday. So far so well. A little drama getting the bike on my Harbor Freight Bike lift...Damn thing scooted forward as I tried to drive up on it. I'll have to figure out some better rigging for next time.
I plan on using this to document my work, and will keep pics here:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=22I've got a snake camera that takes video, so if anyone wants any video of the guts the deeper I go, lemme know. Not everyday we get a Connie open elbow deep, so anything specific you guys wanna see, just lemme know.
To do (not in specific order):
1. valve check (build gap/shim map)2. throttle body sync3. change spark plugs4. Oil change5. final drive oil change6. check/clean air filter7. cooling system checks: change coolant8. change brake/clutch fluid, install bleeders (on order), galfer clutch/brake lines (lines should arrive 16 Dec)9. GSG Frame sliders (the correct way this time :-) (bolt should arrive 16 Dec)10. clean rust off gas tank, lil spots here there...hit it with some primer11. brake pads front, thoroughly clean calipers12. check brakes rear (think they are still good)13. Wheels and tires inspection: replace rear tire? Not needed.14. lubricate levers, cables, kickstand, drive shaft15. clean forks16. rewire or get rid of extra cables I ran under gas tank for farkles...don't see me needing them anytime soon.
17. cable management of farkle wiring18. fuel system checks19. entire brake system check20. Air suction system check21. Clutch and Drive Train inspect22. suspension checks
23. electrical system checks
24. check bolts, nuts and fasteners (wouldn't you know I found my vibration problem on the ride right side: fairing stay bolt that was SUPPOSED to be connected to air dam was loose :-)25. ORder new subframe assembly bolts now, as manual says to replace everytime you yank them out...I didn't replace last time, so think I better this time. any comments on this one? done.
3 Dec:
Oil changed/new filter: 10W-40 Synthetic (NoTE: next time do AFTER valve adjust).
Final Drive Oil changed: damn plug was kinda tight again, even though I didn't hunker down on it last time.
Removed all plastic
4 Dec (morning session):
Removed subframe brackets, air dam, fairing stays, stick coils, cam position sensor, cam shaft position sensor cover, various other brackets, head cover.
4 Dec (evening session): Next Session, measured clearance on exhaust and intake. Only one valve was at optimum measurement. cylinder 1 left side intake. I'll draw up a map and post in pics. Cams are out, and ready to start removing and measuring all shims and making a shim map.
5 Dec (morning session): Pulled cylinder four shims and marked so I don't mix up. Will measure today and build DRAFT map to use for entire shim map. Will measure buckets tonight.
6-7 Dec: Conducted all measurements. Used Egg cartons to keep buckets and shims in order. Built spreadsheet shim map to track values:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=185;dl. Believe I'm ready to get some shims.
9 Dec: New dealer did NOT have the right size shims for me. So I ordered them. Should be here 14 Dec.
17 Dec: finally finished installing new shims, torques of cam holders/covers, and put header back on. after i got the holders back on i made sure to rotate engine a couple full revolutions to make sure i didn't hear any sounds indicative of the cam being installed wrong. What should have probably been a two hour drill took me around four, as I had to open back up and exchange one more shim after everything was said and done. Remember on cylinder 4 intake? I didn't have an accurate measurement, so i guessed in my calculations, and i managed to get it in the zone with a 2.25 shim, but it is still at the bottom of the acceptable range. I don't have anymore smaller shims to satisfy a mid range gap, so let it go.
18 Dec: TOday I finished buttoning up the engine, put the cam position sensor cover back on. Had to go buy some high temp sealant before i closed it up. Also reinstalled stick coils, and associated harness. Fired her up and looked for leaks...all good. Boy I tell you once she turned on and sounded nice..I had to do a high five with my self. I then proceeded to do the throttle body sync and whoop whoop, they were still all spot-on and balanced. I bled the front brakes, installed new brake pads (the original set got 14,800 miles, and the wear markers were gone. I also noticed what appeared to be chunks missing from the edges on a couple of the pads. I cleaned the calipers with brake cleaner. As i was cleaning the right side (I had both calipers unmounted), the left side cylinder seemed to almost "pop" out and started leaking brake fluid...is that normal? I pushed it back in cleaned all up, installed the pads and then went on ahead and bled the front brakes. Oh yeah, I'm quite the noob. I didn't notice the calipers and master cylinders already had what appeared to be speed bleeder valves. What is the difference between these OEM valves and the one's Murph sells? If nothing, I just wasted money buying a set. My bike has been down so long, I am opting not to install the galfer hoses yet. Save for another day. I also drained the coolant and put new coolant (Honda HP). Managed to get much of the left side fairing stays back in place.
24 Dec: So bled the front, rear brakes, and clutch. Also installed the speed bleeders and the front galfer lines. I'm a little confused though...how do these speed bleeders work?? How to make them bleed? Don't need to bleed anything right now (already empty). Is there a special attachment that pushes the check valve down?
25 Dec: Merry Christmas! Today I installed the rear Galfer break line, refilled rear brake fluid, and bled air out of system . Its nice and tight now when engaging the rear break, so confident I got all air out. I also refilled the clutch with brake fluid. Bleeding it was a drawn out system, but got it pretty tight also. I then installed new oil and dust seals in my front calipers. Now I am quite confident I didn't lose it, but is it remotely possible my right caliper would have stayed airtight, even if for a while, missing an O-ring? It would appear one half of one of the calipers was missing the O-ring that lays against the other on the opposite caliper half, creating the channel through which the brake fluid flows. So damnit, need another part. Just when I thought I was gonna get it done today. :-(
5 Jan: Didn't post earlier, but Since December, I installed front fork sliders, frame sliders, swing-arm protector, o-ring seal in left caliper, Tech Spec Tank Protectors, and asundry of smaller 15K checks. Still having problem with air in front brakes, work well enough but still a bubble in there somewhere. Since I have to get my VA state inspection done, I dropped off at the shop for them to do, and bleed my front lines for me. Learned enough in this excursion...hit it again (but hell no on bleeding) in 7,500 miles.
Thanks for reading.