KiPass Ignition Activation Bypass - Which Wire?

[xKLR]

I have an '08 with an aftermarket fuse panel installed in the left fairing, making it difficult to perform a roadside activation if the button on the ignition switch sticks. I'd like to install a connector under the seat to perform the ignition activation, just in case. Some members have mentioned the green wire coming off the ignition will activate the KiPass if it is momentarily disconnected and reconnected (if the activation switch is stuck in the closed position). According to the wiring diagram, there's a LG/BK wire under the seat at the KiPass ECU that is on the same circuit. Has anyone ever installed a connector there? In my case it would be much easier to access under the seat than under the upper left faring trim.

-RC

[martin_14]

without any hard data to back up my post, I hereby authorise you to ignore the next sentence: leave it alone, you won't need it.

[xKLR]

In all these years, I haven't ever needed a tubeless patch kit and pump. Nevertheless, I started carrying one a few years ago after a friend of mine got a flat in the middle of nowhere. A significant number of people on this forum have been more than inconvenienced by the activation switch sticking. I'd rather not be one of them. (And so far I haven't!)

[VirginiaJim]

We've got 1784 total members as of the time I write this.  What number do you consider 'significant'?

[reesedp]

We've got 1784 total members as of the time I write this.  What number do you consider 'significant'?

The one Moderator to bind them all has spoken...

[MAN OF BLUES]

could be an expensive guess unless you are positive it is the exact wire from the connector end without any other "detours"...CanBus systems are a bit fickle when you start splicing/chopping into them....just saying.....

[B.D.F.]

I am not sure what you are trying to do but I do not believe there is any way to 'tinker' with KiPass from under the seat. I do not believe a switch of any kind will be useful wired into any circuit that you can get to in that area.

The KiPass by-pass is done under the front / left fairing cover. There are two different circuits you can interrupt and while both work, one yields a KiPass warning on the LCD screen should the new connection fail while the other one does not; otherwise you can use either one. The by- pass instructions are around here somewhere and should show up in a search pretty easily. Just be careful because that guy who wrote about the by- pass had a rodent helping him according to ledged.

Brian

I have an '08 with an aftermarket fuse panel installed in the left fairing, making it difficult to perform a roadside activation if the button on the ignition switch sticks. I'd like to install a connector under the seat to perform the ignition activation, just in case. Some members have mentioned the green wire coming off the ignition will activate the KiPass if it is momentarily disconnected and reconnected (if the activation switch is stuck in the closed position). According to the wiring diagram, there's a LG/BK wire under the seat at the KiPass ECU that is on the same circuit. Has anyone ever installed a connector there? In my case it would be much easier to access under the seat than under the upper left faring trim.

-RC

[xKLR]

I read the instructions and one of the connections uses the green wire. It changes color at the gray connector, according to the wiring diagram, and makes a beeline for the ECU under the seat. If the green wire under the front fairing works, then so shoud the wire under the seat. Rather than a switch, I'm more inclined to solder in a bullet connector.

I'm curious how it was determined the green wire is the one. I haven't found a wiring diagram in the FSM for the ignition switch assembly.

As far as rodents go, I've had them cut wires under the hood of my car in very inconvenient places. So far they've left the bike alone.

I am not sure what you are trying to do but I do not believe there is any way to 'tinker' with KiPass from under the seat. I do not believe a switch of any kind will be useful wired into any circuit that you can get to in that area.

The KiPass by-pass is done under the front / left fairing cover. There are two different circuits you can interrupt and while both work, one yields a KiPass warning on the LCD screen should the new connection fail while the other one does not; otherwise you can use either one. The by- pass instructions are around here somewhere and should show up in a search pretty easily. Just be careful because that guy who wrote about the by- pass had a rodent helping him according to ledged.

Brian

[xKLR]

Here's a reference to the bypass trick-

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=4407.msg50708#msg50708

According to my FSM wiring diagram, that green wire changes to LG/BK at the gray connector, then continues to the KiPass ECU under the seat. There should be no difference where the bypass trick is installed other than in my case under the seat is a much more accessible location.

[B.D.F.]

The method used to determine the behavior of the wires judged 'most likely' to have an effect, by myself, were chosen from the wiring diagram. Then with some pondering along with a pair of wire cutters, each wire was cut and a defective activation switch was simulated to determine the effect the circuit had on the system. Some knowledge is implied and some is direct but I assure you, disconnecting and reconnecting the wire I choose originally (way back in '08 or '09) will work to cure a faulty activation system. My bike has carried that circuit alteration for years and I have demonstrated it for several people when asked to do so.

The basic problem in 'tinkering' with the circuitry is that there are pieces of electronics in various places on the bike. We would like to think that the ignition switch simply fed wires into the ECU or some similar situation but the fact is that the ignition switch housing has its own circuit internally. We cannot easily get to that circuit. We can get to segments of those circuits via the connector mentioned but doing anything with those parts of the wiring has more widespread consequences than just interrupting the activation switch circuit alone would have.

If you believe you have a method to alter the behavior of a faulty KiPass circuit from under the seat, you can always do what I did and cut the circuit- it should become clear pretty quickly what that circuit does and does not do.

A bullet connector, especially one with just a dab of grease on it, would be an excellent solution in my opinion. I just do not believe there is a circuit under the seat where you can make use of it. But it should work very well if tapped into a correct (there are several choices) that feeds the ignition switch assembly.

Best of luck,
Brian

I read the instructions and one of the connections uses the green wire. It changes color at the gray connector, according to the wiring diagram, and makes a beeline for the ECU under the seat. If the green wire under the front fairing works, then so shoud the wire under the seat. Rather than a switch, I'm more inclined to solder in a bullet connector.

I'm curious how it was determined the green wire is the one. I haven't found a wiring diagram in the FSM for the ignition switch assembly.

As far as rodents go, I've had them cut wires under the hood of my car in very inconvenient places. So far they've left the bike alone.

[B.D.F.]

I wrote that by- pass 'trick'. It goes back a long time.

If you look at the circuitry again, I think you will find that the black / white wire does NOT go only to the ECU but several other points.

The Green wire turns into LG / BK wire, which does seem to feed directly to the KiPass ECU. I would have to look at my bike again but if that wire is the one I used, you should be able to interrupt it anywhere in the circuit, including under the seat.  If possible, try to remove the contact pin from the block connector at the KiPass ECU so you can simply plug it back in after you ascertain what effect it has on the circuit. That way there are no wires to reattach and waterproof later.

Still the best of luck,
Brian

Here's a reference to the bypass trick-

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=4407.msg50708#msg50708

According to my FSM wiring diagram, that green wire changes to LG/BK at the gray connector, then continues to the KiPass ECU under the seat. There should be no difference where the bypass trick is installed other than in my case under the seat is a much more accessible location.