Turbocharged C14

[SpazOnaConcours]

Nope... no second to fourth...... I just got my boot hung up on the shifter when I made the 1-->2 shift. That happens a lot when I'm trying to short-shift to keep the wheel closer to the ground; the result is I end up having to back off and use the clutch to get third. I'm getting better at not screwing that up, but it takes practice. It pretty much only happens now when people are watching.

Nope on the damper too.... I just have to take the bags off if I want to go do a speed run above 160 or so. No bags = no speed wobble.... and it makes a hhhuuuuuuuuuuuuuugge difference in speed over 150. At my altitude (right at 5000 feet) I don't think it will pull the double ton with the bags on, nevermind the wobble. At see level it would, but the aerodynamics (or lack thereof) make that much of a difference.

[stevewfl]

Could you please share gas mileage? Apologies if you did already, I didn't go through the 5 pages

[SpazOnaConcours]

I get right at 30mpg in town, 42-ish at freeway speeds. Please note though, that I'm sincerely addicted to boost and roll-on power wheelies. That, and freeway speeds means 80-100mph. And I pretty much always have the bags on and full of stuff. Most sane(er) people would get mid 30's and high 40's. I've seen that a few times when I was limping it around for one reason or another.  Two-up freeway mpg is 38-42.... I don't do enough of that around town to tell you what that would be.

[jamiemac]

Would a boost controller be feasible, or is there not enough adjustblity in the ecu to compensate for different levels of boost? It would be cool to crank down the boost level when You are trying to stretch out a tank of gas, then crank it up when you wanna play. Just thinking. If You already covered this, sorry about the rehash.

[Rhino]

Most sane(er) people would get mid 30's and high 40's. I've seen that a few times when I was limping it around for one reason or another.

That's pretty close to what I get on mine stock. BTW: "Most sane(er)" people wouldn't turbo their C14 to begin with

[SpazOnaConcours]

Would a boost controller be feasible, or is there not enough adjustblity in the ecu to compensate for different levels of boost? It would be cool to crank down the boost level when You are trying to stretch out a tank of gas, then crank it up when you wanna play. Just thinking. If You already covered this, sorry about the rehash.

It is, and I have one on now. Truth be told, though, is that the real boost controller is attached to your right hand. If you want to make a tank stretch, you just stay out of the turbine (keep the tach below 6k and big throttle openings). The difference in gas milage when you do that is pretty much negligible. I get this sort of mileage on my N/A ZX10R.

That said, the rising rate regulator would pretty much even the fueling out if you changed boost levels. You can't turn it up much higher than 8psi (9-10 MAX) as it is starting to go over 80% duty cycle on the injectors... not something you want to do. If you turned the boost down, however, the FMU (rising rate regulator) wouldn't apply as much fuel pressure, and everything would work fine; the ECU need not be consented. The only issue with that is that you have to have a pretty wimpy wategate spring in the turbo itself (or wategate actuator) that will start to vent at the lower boost level. In a nutshell, you can only use a boost controller to make more boost, not less. It wouldn't be difficult at all to run a 5PSI wastegate spring, and then use a controller to go up from there. I'm running a 7psi spring now and using the controller to get to 8(ish)psi.

Now, if you just lay into it all the time, WTFO, hair on fire, 130+ all the time, it may get itno the low 20's, high teens. But you probably wouldn't live long enough (or stay a free man) for it to matter.

[SpazOnaConcours]

PS:

In the interests of fair & impartial journalism, I must say this: I go through front brake pads about TWICE as fast now. You could figure that into the gas mileage if you want to be truely honest. 

[Jeremy Mitchell]

PS:

In the interests of fair & impartial journalism, I must say this: I go through front brake pads about TWICE as fast now. You could figure that into the gas mileage if you want to be truely honest. 

Along with rear tires (you can't get more than 2000 miles out of a rear),  but on the positive side your front tire only touches the ground every once in a while so you could possibly get 30-40,000 miles out of it.   

[ZG]

Imagine what SpazOnaConcours said to his wife: "honey, I'll be back in an hour. I'm going to check the weather in Pluto..."

 

[jamiemac]

It is, and I have one on now. Truth be told, though, is that the real boost controller is attached to your right hand. If you want to make a tank stretch, you just stay out of the turbine (keep the tach below 6k and big throttle openings). The difference in gas milage when you do that is pretty much negligible. I get this sort of mileage on my N/A ZX10R.

That said, the rising rate regulator would pretty much even the fueling out if you changed boost levels. You can't turn it up much higher than 8psi (9-10 MAX) as it is starting to go over 80% duty cycle on the injectors... not something you want to do. If you turned the boost down, however, the FMU (rising rate regulator) wouldn't apply as much fuel pressure, and everything would work fine; the ECU need not be consented. The only issue with that is that you have to have a pretty wimpy wategate spring in the turbo itself (or wategate actuator) that will start to vent at the lower boost level. In a nutshell, you can only use a boost controller to make more boost, not less. It wouldn't be difficult at all to run a 5PSI wastegate spring, and then use a controller to go up from there. I'm running a 7psi spring now and using the controller to get to 8(ish)psi.

Now, if you just lay into it all the time, WTFO, hair on fire, 130+ all the time, it may get itno the low 20's, high teens. But you probably wouldn't live long enough (or stay a free man) for it to matter.

Very cool info. Thanks for the explanation. This subject interests Me a great deal.

[SpazOnaConcours]

Along with rear tires (you can't get more than 2000 miles out of a rear),  but on the positive side your front tire only touches the ground every once in a while so you could possibly get 30-40,000 miles out of it.   

...I got 5K+ out of my last rear, half of that 2-up w/mostly straight up and down riding: BIG THUMBS UP up for the Pirelli Angels for grip & wear. My front only lasted about 7K before it started cupping bad enough to make it handle like a truck. I'll change a front tire when it starts to make the front end feel less than ideal.... this usually happens before it's worn to the wear bars. But the rear was in the cords at 6K.

[Fretka]

Any oil pushed out of the breather? Did you mod it? I'd like to put a pressure transducer on the vent and see how much crankcase blowby we are getting. Whatever it is I think it's within normal range for low boost.

Bruce

[SpazOnaConcours]

No solid oil comes out, but it does mist. It's enough to make that side of the fairing oily on the inside, but not enough to collect and drip anywhere. If I got off my rear and built a proper catch can it would solve the problem, but I just keep putting it further back on the list. I do smell the faint oil aroma when I stop after I've been on it hard, but I have an unusually strong sense of smell. My oil consumption is still pretty low (less than a quart every 4K miles), so I'm not concerned. I did remove the tube in the oil pan after I rode it a few times, but it didn't make any noticable difference.

You could measure it that way... you could do a good leakdown test when it's warm too.... even if you know the pressure numbers there's not much you can do about it. You -could- build a scavenge system into the exhaust like we used to do on the old drag car headers we used to make: that works pretty well to this day. Just plumb the entry into the exhaust after the O2 sensor and I think it would work great.  Hrrrmmmmmm.... thoughts?

[mike]

 

200mph

...using the suction cup mount behind the tank. I can't tell ya'll how.... interesting it is having to stay mostly upright and out of the camera's way at that speed. The clip gives you a good idea how hard this monstrosity sweeps the speedo needle.

nice!

[Fretka]

No, I agree, there is nothing to be done about it but I need something to keep my brain busy!

BTW... I gave a cursory look into the oil system and it looks like first gear driven is at the end of the pressure line. I put a smaller oil filter on mine due to clearance issues with the boost linkage
 and have an occasional noisy needle bearing there. Better get back to the big filter ya think?
Remember to tighten the FPR screws!


Bruce

[booger]

Great read.  But I bought my C-14 to go slower, not faster

[SpazOnaConcours]

BTW... I gave a cursory look into the oil system and it looks like first gear driven is at the end of the pressure line. I put a smaller oil filter on mine due to clearance issues with the boost linkage
 and have an occasional noisy needle bearing there. Better get back to the big filter ya think?

Yup.  I have to remove my turbo (or header) to change my filter as well. I thought about using the shorter filter, but I was worried about the same thing there. Good catch.

[Jeremy Mitchell]

What about using a remote filter?  I am sure space is at a premium but there might be enough room to sqeeze an oil filter in somewhere so you don't have to loosen your header.

[SpazOnaConcours]

...I think they make a remote kit for the zx-14 for big turbo bikes: the run it back by the swingarm in that app. I don't mind taking the fairing/turbo off every 3K miles or so... I'm pretty quick at it now and it gives me a chance to check everything for leaks and cracks. If I were in the buisness of making/selling kits for the masses, I'd use a remote set-up for sure. I still need to tweak my header anyway to fix a cold-sealing issue on the #1 hole.... *sigh* so many things on the list.

I'm still really interested in the idea of an exhaust evacuator set-up for the crancase breather though........ 

[B.D.F.]

Great Jeremy, now we will have to have the 'mineral or synthetic oil filter adapter' conversation. 

Good idea though- this is one of the most common oil filters on the planet so it is likely that someone, somewhere makes a remote adapter for it. You are right in that a place to locate the new filter might be hard to find but loosening / removing exhaust parts to change the oil sounds pretty painful. Of course in a real pinch I guess the new oil filter could be mounted to the top of the fairing cover, on the right hand side opposite the glove box- it would help cool the oil and be a terrific conversation starter.... 

Brian

What about using a remote filter?  I am sure space is at a premium but there might be enough room to sqeeze an oil filter in somewhere so you don't have to loosen your header.