oh?Moly paste and high temp grease are two pretty different animals. I would use what is specified in the manual. You can buy hight temp grease for less than 3 bucks
Not sure what they were doing. Probably wanted to make sure they got it. LOL
Im going to clean it off. How would one go about applying int correctly? Just a small about in the teeth of the gear?
Also, what lip are they talking about to apply high temp grease?
Thanks!
Dade22
I can't find Moly 60 anywhere. Even the Honda shops in town are out of stock. What's an acceptable alternative that I can get form Auto Zone or Checker Auto Parts?Did you ask or just check the shelves? There was none on the shelves, but they brought it out of the back when I asked.
Did you ask or just check the shelves? There was none on the shelves, but they brought it out of the back when I asked.
Never used the stuff and the bike is still operational. I know I'm living on the edge, though.
I must confess though, that I did buy a tube of the Honda moly some time back after the original thread came out about the potential drive shaft issue. Problem is.....I lost it. It's in my garage somewhere.....I think. I'll probably find it after I do a good garage cleaning or wash the bike (not bloody likely on either account). I've resolved not to buy another tube until I find either that my drive shaft fails due to inadequate lubrication, or the rear wheel tines disintegrate, whichever occurs first. I do use some Valvoline multi-purpose (fortified with an insignificant amount of moly) grease whenever I'm working in the rear wheel area. So far no issues. I've had that grease for 15 years, at least. Must be good stuff as I've had no issues with the four shaftie bikes I've owned in that time.
I can't find Moly 60 anywhere. Even the Honda shops in town are out of stock. What's an acceptable alternative that I can get form Auto Zone or Checker Auto Parts?Pretty good article on shaft drives: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Shaft.html#Gears I can't seem to find an actual specification in the 1400 service manual, just "Apply molybdenum disulfide grease", no real spec on the moly content though
I can't find Moly 60 anywhere. Even the Honda shops in town are out of stock. What's an acceptable alternative that I can get form Auto Zone or Checker Auto Parts?
That is a relatively slow leak; some leak badly enough to leave a puddle on the wheel and spill down the tire onto the ground. My leak was caused by a failed inner seal.
Brian
mine looks just like that but much less. inner seal is leaking for sure. how do i know if it will go 500 miles on a ride ?? and "if" i were to chance it, bring lube, brake cleaner, towel, paper towels and painters tape ??
seal is ordered and scheduled for Monday., shoot, is there bearings that cause this too or just the seal ?? under warranty either way
20+ year ase master mechanic, and my bike mechanic saw the inner seal leaking. Definitely not over filled. (not sure how you can overfill it with a big gaping hole with the plug out, lol)
thanks Brian. do you recall if you had a bearing replaced also ?? not sure the bearing and seal people are referring to being replaced, if thats the needle bearing next to the seal. i only ordered the inner seal for the dealer, if they need more parts i can leave the bike there. I go past several other dealers to go to this one, good or bad, time will tell but i think good.
also read about foaming, i have seen vehicles foam up before pulling the cover, but never my bike using Mobil 1. vent has always been clean and dry. no bubbles draining warm either.
thanks,
Joel
Yeah, I don't know how much stock I put into the overfilled thought either- the drives simply should not leak by the seals and if they are overfilled, they should leak out of the vent rather than past the seals.Hey Brian, have you thought about marketing that diaper? You could probably sell several hundred here for folks than just want to be ready for the drive shaft mayhem expected. Probably get $45 at least for them. I'll go in with you if I can get the rights to the diaper DVD.
The usual practice is to change the small bearing when the seal is changed. The bearing has to be driven out by the inner race and bearings should not be re-used after being subjected to that. So the bearing is usually replaced just because the old bearing is abused to remove it, no other reason.
When mine started to leak, I simply made a 'diaper' out of three or four paper towels rolled length- wise and wrapped around the hub such that about an inch of paper towel was projecting past the gap where the wheel meets the hub. I taped the paper towel roll (or band) onto the hub so that the wheel could turn inside it. In several hundred miles of further riding there was not enough leakage to soak the paper towels so there certainly was not any appreciable drop in fluid level, although I did check the level to be sure it was not dropping.
Once mine was repaired, I put several hundred miles on it before I would travel any great distance with the bike, just to be sure the leak was cured and to rebuild my confidence. My bike is past 85K miles and has been across the entire US in timed runs with no further problem. So I would recommend getting it repaired and then accumulating some miles, if at all possible when it is hot out as that seems to be when they fail (not a fact, just an impression I have gotten). As I remember, there has been one person who had a second failure of the inner seal and that resulted in an entire new final drive under warranty.
Best of luck with it but the second seal should be the 'charm'.
Brian
Hey Brian, have you thought about marketing that diaper? You could probably sell several hundred here for folks than just want to be ready for the drive shaft mayhem expected. Probably get $45 at least for them. I'll go in with you if I can get the rights to the diaper DVD.