OK, might buy a Connie REAL SOON - a few questions before I pull trigger!

[Homeslice]

2013 Connie.  Blue.  Low miles.  Looked in very good condition when I went and looked at it, I had a local inspection company go look at it and do a test ride, etc. today and should have full report soon, but off hand it sounds like everything is positive.  But a few questions -

The seller said it has one (regular) FOB.  Does it just come with one regular FOB?  Curious, if you lose that, can you get a new one from Kawasaki I would hope?

The seller also had some "key" I think that is plugged into the ignition, but he could not get that out of the ignition.  He said it was very common on Concours to not be able to get those out, no big deal at all, as the bike would not start without the FOB.  Does that sound right/OK?

There is some "backup" fab under the seat or something?  That will start the bike in an emergency?  Something like that?

Then the bike is at like 16k miles, he said its going to need a valve adjustment soon.  How big a deal are those?  It is beyond me, so what do those cost more/less? 

And then, I asked the question in another thread about how more desirable the 2015 and later bikes are to the prior bikes, and I got the impression they may be slightly more desirable due mostly to the reduced "linked breaking", but not a huge deal by any stretch, especially for someone like me that is never going to track it or ride it dangerously, but mainly just to around town nice and easy. 

Finally, is blue a desirable color?    They look REAL NICE to me, but honestly one of the 2015 green ones might be the most beautiful of them all in my eyes. 

Thanks for any help!!!

[Freddy]

Blue is the slowest colour of all, especially dark blue.   . You need a red one.   

The bike comes from the factory with 1 active fob (battery within) and 1 passive fob (black plastic flat thingy half the size of a credit card).  The active fob also has an inbuilt passive function in case battery dies suddenly.  If all fobs are lost it's a big problem, like most stuff these days.  The ignition key (commonly called the stove knob) can be removed only in the FSS position. 

No urgency on valve check, which is a major job.  Many folks have done well in excess of 100,000m before check without issue, me included.

The linked brake issue is apparent if riding lots of corners fast and wanting to drop some speed mid corner by using the rear brake.  It makes the bike tend to straighten up and go off line. That's why Kaw changed it from 2015.

[Boomer]

Welcome aboard 

The 2010-2022 models come with one remote Kipass Fob and one passive RFID card (credit card sized, sounds like the "backup fob" that is under your seat).
The early (08/09) models came with 2 Kipass Fobs.
If you lose all of the Fobs/RFID cards then you will have to replace the Kipass computer as well as at least one Fob/RFID.
Ed Ramberger does cheap clones of the RFID cards if you want more, but unless you are the kind of person who regularly loses such things, there is no need.
My Fob lives in my riding jacket in a small ziplock bag and only comes out when the battery needs replacing (about every 5 years).
My spare fob has never been used and is securely stored at home with the battery removed.

The ignition key (Stove knob) lives in the dash and is only removed to open the gas cap or side-bags.
Most of us get a normal key cut so we can open the gas cap and the side-bags without having to remove the Stove knob.

Only in North America does the maintenance plan require a valve check at 15k miles. In the rest of the world that is at 25k miles, and every 25k miles after that.
It is a quite expensive service so budget $800-$1000 for that. The in between services are $250 as just oil, oil filter and final drive oil change. These are easy to do yourself if you have minimal mechanical skills.

The 2015 has a slightly lower 1st gear ratio, has better Linked Brakes, a different windshield with an openable vent, and a slightly different saddle.
If you are not likely to push it hard, then there is very little practical difference.

Colour is a personal choice. Mine is black (I had a choice of black or grey in 2007) but I would like to get a lime green one one day. The blue also looks good.

You can download an Owners Manual from various sites online (just Google it) that explains how the Fobs & RFID cards work as well as the rest of the bike.
They are worth a read if you are considering buying one.

[maxtog]

Great responses from others, to which I agree completely.  I will add:

You should not store either fob on the bike.  You cannot remove the "stove knob" from the ignition when it is in the off position, without using the fob.  This is intentional, it allows you to just never remove it or think about it, and keep it on the bike.

Valve adjustments on the C14 are very involved, unfortunately.  You can, as pointed out, wait much longer than indicated, but it will need to be done.  I strongly recommend a dealer do that (having done it myself and swearing I would never try it again), call one to get pricing (and it will be expensive).

I strongly recommend you download and read the owner's manual before purchasing, it will answer many of your questions.  Of course, there are tons of great posts on this site that will also answer just about any question, too

[Homeslice]

Thanks everyone!  From reading everyone's responses, I think my biggest concern is, I believe its the "stove knob" he said that cannot be removed from the ignition AT ALL, no matter whether the ignition is turned off, on or whatever.  That its "stuck" there and just flat out cannot be taken out.  He said that was common on these bikes.  Does that sound right AT ALL? 

Thanks!!!

[maxtog]

Thanks everyone!  From reading everyone's responses, I think my biggest concern is, I believe its the "stove knob" he said that cannot be removed from the ignition AT ALL, no matter whether the ignition is turned off, on or whatever.  That its "stuck" there and just flat out cannot be taken out.  He said that was common on these bikes.  Does that sound right AT ALL? 

I have never heard/read of that happening before.  I suspect he is just incorrect.  Easy enough for you to test, though.  The key knob (stove knob) cannot be removed in any position other than FSS.  Note, you should never park/leave your bike with the knob in that position without removing it, because ANYONE can then remove it and unlock your bags or tank.  They will NOT be able to start the bike, however, but if they stole it, you are in for a headache.  The only purpose of FSS is really if you want that key to unlock something, like the gas tank, while are you WITH THE BIKE, and plan to then start it again, or relock the ignition (to OFF or LOCK).

LOCK = steering LOCKED, knob locked, ignition start disabled
OFF = steering unlocked, knob locked, ignition disabled
ON = steering unlocked, knob locked, ignition ENABLED
FSS = steering unlocked, knob UNLOCKED, ignition disabled.

Interestingly, the manual doesn't define what "FSS" is supposed to mean.  We believe it means "Fuel, Seat, Storage"

[Freddy]

l have read where some owners have said that the key was difficult to remove due to 'lack of use.'  l must try one day.  l haven't removed mine in the 5 years I've had this particular bike as l always use the key in the active fob.

[Bagger John]

I treat my stove knobs as simply switch paddles and not keys. Have never removed them from either bike and always use the fob keys to unlock saddlebags, tank and seat lock, what have you.

Both of mine are equipped with helmet locks. I searched for a while to find a pair of each tumbler type (A and B) and keyed them to the bike keys. (I have a bit of experience with this). The locks themselves are mounted to the bike's antenna mount bar or to a special lock/running light plate assembly I designed for the C14P conversion. If anyone is curious how to do this I can point you to the needed supplies.

As far as valve adjustments:

My '08 had them done at 14.9k and the '12, 14.5k. The former had 6 slightly under spec. The latter, 12 under spec and a couple were approaching .002" tight. You'll burn valves if things get much tighter. I do my own wrench work here so it's not that big a deal to pull the bike apart and check them - it also gives me an excuse to revamp any accessory electronics I've installed.

'08 is at 25k now. At 30k it's coming down again for more accessory upgrades and I'll do the valves then. If they're fairly close to spec (I set everything .006IN/.009EX) I'll wait 30k before checking them again. If any are close to being tight then they'll be checked at 15k intervals until they stabilize. 

[VirginiaJim]

I very rarely removed the stove knob, but as I recall it was made out of chocolate and bent very easily.  It's possible that's the reason it cannot be removed.

[Justcliff]

With only 16,000 miles in 11 years, it just sounds like the owner is not very familiar with the bike.

I have removed my stove 90% of the time when filling up since new. When I pull up to the pump, I automatically turn the key to FSS to shut it off.  After 288,000 miles that's a lot of key removals, I've never had a problem or concern about bending the key.

[PH14]

I have as well, Cliff. It is convenient. I have dne it with my 2009 since new. It helps to keep the lock lubed with graphite so it turns easily, and goes in and out easily. I think a lot of the bent stove keys have been a result of poorly maintained gas cap locks. Mine turns easily. I have seen many that don't. Oddly though, on a trip last week I used the key in the fob half the time.

[VirginiaJim]

And yet, we've had reports of it bending the key itself.  Glad you guys have had trouble free usage out of it..  I don't have a stove knob on my Indian lol.

[maxtog]

I very rarely remove the knob, since I just use a regular key I had cut and put on my keyring (the fob lives in my sealed jacket pocket, "permanently").  But occasionally I do remove the knob when filling gas, because it is convenient.  My knob key is also a bit bent, but the reason is the never-ending problems I have with the gas cap mechanism corroding.  It gets stiff and requires a lot of force.  Countless disassembly and cleaning/lubing with different things.  Makes no difference, it always returns.  I even replaced the cap assembly, and a year later, it is corroding again.  No such problem with the ignition assembly.

[Boomer]

I very rarely remove the knob, since I just use a regular key I had cut and put on my keyring (the fob lives in my sealed jacket pocket, "permanently").  But occasionally I do remove the knob when filling gas, because it is convenient.  My knob key is also a bit bent, but the reason is the never-ending problems I have with the gas cap mechanism corroding.  It gets stiff and requires a lot of force.  Countless disassembly and cleaning/lubing with different things.  Makes no difference, it always returns.  I even replaced the cap assembly, and a year later, it is corroding again.  No such problem with the ignition assembly.

Ethanol in the gas seems to be the cause of this, but probably also due to the poor material choices made when designing the gas cap.
I just stripped, cleaned, lubed, and reassembled mine yesterday as it was getting stiff during my trip to Austria.
For once the 2 latches were NOT corroded, which I put down to my MRP flash meaning it has only had E5 (96-100RON) fuel over the last few years.
Prior to that, when run on E10 (95RON) the latches would be white when it came to cleaning time.
The only thing I have never managed to remove is the key barrel, but it got hosed out with lots of brake cleaner, blown dry with compressed air, and then re-lubricated with Penetrating Oil.
Is now smooth as butter again 

[maxtog]

The only thing I have never managed to remove is the key barrel

It is tricky, but I got mine out.  Had to, to move it to the new gas cap assembly.  Cleaned it well and lubed with oil.

Is now smooth as butter again 

So is mine, for a few months after each disassembly and cleaning.  Then it goes right back to white corrosion and stiffness again, progressing until the key will bend and I take it apart again.  Tried many different lubes, makes no difference

[Boomer]

What gas are you running? Is it parked outside?
The penetrating oil I use is RP-90.
Could also be down to climate differences I guess.

[maxtog]

What gas are you running?

"High Octane" which I think is typically 92?

Is it parked outside?

Yes, under a full cover

Could also be down to climate differences I guess.

Possible.  I know others have the same problem I do.  And others who never have ANY problems.  It is perplexing.  Full thread here:

http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=20069

Overdue for a post there, so I will post an update.

[hank]

Go for it you will love the Connie!! Send some pics once you have it.