Balderdash... That's an even taller order! The engine itself is a stressed member of the frame and does not lend itself well at all to ...
Get rid of the squishy? Sure, stainless steel lines help a lot and 4 to 6 piston calipers are the bomb... Done many times over with the right fabbing of adapter brackets. Not sure if anyone is still making or selling these; perhaps Murph at www.murphskits.com
Owen:
Re-adaper brackets- I will get back to you on that. The later model disks seem to be big enough.
I have a frame scheme that will do the job. It involves replacing large chunks of the original frame, and putting a bolted pin-joint under the rear of the tank. This relies on the engine to act as the diagonal member, and also provide bending and twisting stiffness.
The top arch of the front sub-frame is set quite high, and there is another removable bracing tray underneath.
This holds the battery and electrics. Any replacement engine needs to be hard-mounted, also.
The bottom tray is bolted to the GTR engine head.
If I stick a v-motor in there, the battery will need to be moved again.
The fuel tank will be moved under the seat. I may need secondary tanks to get the volume up around the 24 liter mark.
I have a plan for a welded polypropylene tank, mounted on foam strip and sheet edge pieces, welded to the frame.
The GTR fuel cap fitting should go straight on. (aircraft-style).
The fuel pump/pickup unit is from a Gixxer.
The "tank" top becomes the airbox, like the Buells, and seals against the top arch tray.
Wiring and cable runs are to be put in before adding the top frame arch and front forks.
I may make the top tray floor removable if possible, to improve access.
There needs to be main wiring plugs at the front of the tray, so that the instrument/lights section can just be plugged in.
Much of the mid/rear subframe will be modified and beefed up a bit.
Fitting the swingarm brace may be a bit tight, as the shock will be in the way up top,
and the centerstand is rather close in underneath. I may need to spread the centerstand out a bit, and tuck it a little closer to the
exhaust pipes. The center suspension mount at the rear can be removed. Maybe I can support the centerstand at the outside,
like the swingarm.
It is all a fair bit of work, which will probably take me a couple of months.
I have a good workspace available, and plenty of tools.- grinders, welders, etc. I haven't had oxy-acetylene for a while.
I need to lease the tanks, but the monthly fee is quite small.
I am planning to braze-weld the joints, and use 3/4 and inch square furniture tubing. I shouldn't need any bends.
Curved bits can be fabricated from steel sheet.
See the blog. Larger scale detail drawings will be posted as they are finished.