(My intro thread http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=20304.0)

Eli hit the 600 mile mark today and the bike is exactly the ride and experience I was looking for. Smooth, quiet, powerful, authoritative (even at < 4000rpm), extremely well built, and just stays out of the way - no drama from the bike at all.

So I changed the oil, filter, and rear lube today which is a PLEASURE on this bike. Not a stray drop of fluid anywhere. The bike only had a touch over three quarts in it from the showroom floor. Since it is a 2011, the OE filter was a Japan/Denso 16097-0004, the old style fiber kind without endcaps. It was totally full of gunk and the can had a lot of junk and metal shavings in it, so I guess the filter and break-in oil did its job but I was relieved to change the oil and get on some 'real' oil.

I went with Mobil1 4T 10w-40 and a Mobil1 M1-110. I put all but 5.5oz of 4qts to get a third of the way above the low level mark when balanced on the tires. On the center stand, the level is midway between the two lower marks. The rear was MasterPro 75w-90 synthetic, which is OReilly house brand.

I decided to start with some protective farkles since I noticed my cool weather pants started scuffing and scratching the tank and side panels... YUCK! So, for starters...

• TechSpec shark skin pad kit for tank, side panels, and panniers
• Cox Racing radiator guard
• Fenda Extenda
• Grab-On foam grip covers (I use on all bikes)
• Heli Bars riser blocks with RAM ball and power socket
• RAM mounts for brake and clutch brackets

Probably go with a Calsci screen in standard width and medium height in the near future to eliminate buffeting and get another inch of height in the full up position, which would be perfect.

Love my new bike and goes great with my ZR7 - a perfect pairing for me.

You only drained a lil over 3 quarts of the old oil out and filled it with less than 4 quarts of new? It takes ~4.5 quarts to fill so something isn't right.

I agree with that assessment. However, I was advised by some pretty knowledgeable Connie riders to add oil according to the fill marks when the bike is level on its tires rather than the printed capacity (4.7 quarts). I added to a third of the way up from the low level line in the sight glass, which was 3.82 quarts for me. That's after warm up check and after a 20 mile ride and check. I'm a bit baffled as well, but satisfied I'm following the advice of the right dudes.

BTW... the 3 quarts drained was the break-in oil from the factory on a 5-year old bike new bike. I don't think the shop checked that as they should have but it's behind me now. No sweat.

You only drained a lil over 3 quarts of the old oil out and filled it with less than 4 quarts of new? It takes ~4.5 quarts to fill so something isn't right.

...and ride away  .

I don't know who these 'knowledgeable Connie riders' are but I've been changing the oil in my C14 since I bought mine new in 5/09. I don't measure anything, other than eyeballing 1/2 quart. I drain the old and add 4.5 quarts and the level in the sight glass is perfect every time.

If you were running your new bike with 'a touch over' 3 quarts in it, you were running it low. Did you not check the level yourself once you got the bike home?

Yes, sir. I checked the level several times and was concerned that it was low. I could register a level if leaned the bike juuuuuust past the balanced point and I wasn't getting any oil pressure warnings, so I was content to let the low level break-in oil do its work to the 600 mile mark. In hindsight, it probably was not the best move, but everything seems okay.

I don't know what to say on the oil quantity. I will keep an eye on it, but by following the advice of "my guys", I'm also following the book. I'm just above the lower mark when cold and level balanced on the wheels with 3.82qts. And I'm even using an oil filter with a longer canister (Mobil1 M1-110). I could add that extra 0.18qts to see what 4.0 even looks like cold and take it out if I didn't like it.

From the '08 FSM....
Engine Oil:
Type API SE, SF or SG
API SH, SJ or SL with JASO MA
Viscosity SAE10W-40
Capacity 4.7 L (5.0 US qt)

UPDATE: I added the rest of that 4th quart and the level came up to exactly between the upper and lower lines so I'm satisfied. Thank you for pressing the issue and for posting the spec. I double checked it in the book also. Maybe that extra 0.7qt would bring it up to the upper line, but that's too high for me.

Oh yeah, your red highlight is a bone dry engine. It's 4.7qt for a change with filter IIRC.

For the record, the first pic is 3.8qts and the second pic is 4.0 qts. Bike on level concrete and held vertical on the wheels. First oil change so it may take more later? Also Mobil1 filter cannister is half inch longer which should take MORE oil!

UPDATE: I added the rest of that 4th quart and the level came up to exactly between the upper and lower lines so I'm satisfied. Thank you for pressing the issue and for posting the spec. I double checked it in the book also. Maybe that extra 0.7qt would bring it up to the upper line, but that's too high for me.

Oh yeah, your red highlight is a bone dry engine. It's 4.7qt for a change with filter IIRC.

That's why 4.5 w/filter change is a comfortable # for me. Pressing the issue was not to prove a point but to caution against running too low. 

Yes, that's why I was thanking you, and you prompted me to add the rest of the 4quarts which I am happy with. I change oil just for fun so there will be plenty of opportunities to see how much it takes.

Maybe a dumb question. Why are you not filling to the upper line. It would be kind of like filling your car to the add and saying that's good enough.

Maybe a dumb question. Why are you not filling to the upper line. It would be kind of like filling your car to the add and saying that's good enough.

Point well taken. Most car dipsticks have an area, not a line, that says the level is adequate. As long as you are above the "fill" line but below the "full" line, you are good. I am curious why there are four marks around the sight glass but only two of them are mentioned in the manual. I figure the line below the low level line is the "low-low line" and the arrow below the high level line is a reference "fill to" point, but there is no documentation. I'm happy being right in the middle of the upper and lower fill lines. Whew! That's a lot of lines.

I know most put in 4.5 quarts, but I have always used 4.7(I'm anal). Mine is always at the upper line. 4.5 quarts is fine though and well proven by the majority here. I wouldn't put in less though.

Point well taken. Most car dipsticks have an area, not a line, that says the level is adequate. As long as you are above the "fill" line but below the "full" line, you are good. I am curious why there are four marks around the sight glass but only two of them are mentioned in the manual. I figure the line below the low level line is the "low-low line" and the arrow below the high level line is a reference "fill to" point, but there is no documentation. I'm happy being right in the middle of the upper and lower fill lines. Whew! That's a lot of lines.

There is a reason we don't think about this too much.  It hurts our branes.  Put in 4 and a few glugs....

Easy there big guy- it is 2.839578 English Standard glugs exactly, not 'a few'.

For the sane out there, the crankcase is just a reservoir for oil and anything above the the pick-up screen and below the crankshaft rotation is fine. It just is not a critical thing.

Brian

There is a reason we don't think about this too much.  It hurts our branes.  Put in 4 and a few glugs....

We all know that how much oil you put in is determined by how much oil is left in the engine after you drain it. 

From the Service Manual:

Oil Level Inspection •Check that the engine oil level is between the upper [A]
and lower levels in the gauge.

If the engine oil gets extremely low or if the oil pump
or oil passages clog up or otherwise do not function
properly, the oil pressure warning light will light

Poor running or no power at high speed
 - One of the causes could be Engine Oil Level Too High

There is nothing in the manual that says to fill to the top line.  Not sure whether the MOM state this or not, but some of my Kawasaki bikes state that if you are going to be running sustained high speeds you should fill to the top line because you will more than likely use some oil.

Now back to your regularly scheduled program.

Please do not confuse us with the facts.

Please do not confuse us with the facts.

Exactly! See my sig line.

We all know that how much oil you put in is determined by how much oil is left in the engine after you drain it. 

From the Service Manual:

Oil Level Inspection •Check that the engine oil level is between the upper [A]
and lower levels in the gauge.

If the engine oil gets extremely low or if the oil pump
or oil passages clog up or otherwise do not function
properly, the oil pressure warning light will light

Poor running or no power at high speed
 - One of the causes could be Engine Oil Level Too High

There is nothing in the manual that says to fill to the top line.  Not sure whether the MOM state this or not, but some of my Kawasaki bikes state that if you are going to be running sustained high speeds you should fill to the top line because you will more than likely use some oil.

Now back to your regularly scheduled program.

FYI... this is one of "my guys"! Thanks twa!