Here are the pics of my adjustable screen mod.
I used two drawer runners, (the type with ball bearings)
the first 3/4" were bent in a vice to allow the runners to follow the contour of the fairing.
first step is too remove the screen and the grill behind the clocks.
Next secure the two runners using the two bottom most holes on the runners (they should have a number of holes already in them) to the two bottom most screen mounting holes. (you may have to enlarge the holes on the slide slightly to allow for the standard screws), note the angle you will need to bend the slides to, then take them off and put the bottom ends in a vice (about 3/4 to 1" should do) with the slides fully extended, bend them back until the desired angle is acheived (I did this by feel, but I think about 15 degrees would do it). Once you're happy with this remount the slides to the fairing.
Once the slides are secure, measure the bottom most distance between the runners and the mount holes, I then fabricated an aluminium bar and drilled it at this spacing and then bolted it to the top most holes on the runners. Check to make sure you have a 90 degree angle between the runners and the bar, then tighten the bar tight. (I removed the set up again for the next step) using a piece of flat steel, at least 2mm thick, weld this in position just below the aluminium bar, then remove the aluminium bar. Your frame is complete.
Remove the two bolts under the grill behind the clocks, now measure between the holes and a point approximately 1/3rd up the slides. Add about 1 1/2" to this measurement, now go find some thick steel wire (the sort used in shopping carts) cut two pieces the same length and weld them to the outer edge of the slides making sure that they point toward the holes (again remove the assembly before welding).
Next bend the 1 1/2" extra length of the wire so that it forms a u or closed circle around the bolt hole, these will be your stabilisers to brace the screen against the wind.
Find a knob with a short threaded end, drill and tap a small hole approx 1-2" above one of the wire supports. This is your adjustment lock, use a small rubber washer to help prevent the knob undoing itself.
Identify the top and bottom holes on the inner slide for your screen mounting, use a 8mm nut and screw, the nut will not fit into the inner slide, but line up the screw and tighten as much as it will go, this should draw the nut into the slide and capture it there.
Now we are ready to mount the screen, Mount the screen to the bottom holes on the inner slides using the shorter standard screws ( a small spacer between the screen and the slide will help prevent the screw protruding too far into the slide. Now you can mark and drill the holes for the top mount in the screen (I used a dremmel) to line up with the captive nuts for the top mounts. Important: You will need a spacer at the top otherwise the slide will scrape down the inside of the screen when you raise and lower it, I used a pair of cavity wall rubber expanding screws (see pics) this gives about a 1" clearence between the screen and the slide at the top and has the beauty of being rubber mounted too.
Next gently slide the screen down, the bottom edge should not protrude further down than the bottom edge of the front grill, once the screen is in this position, cut out the sides of the screen to follow the profile of the mirror mounts (again see pics).
Last bit, you will need to cut two slots in the grill that goes behind the clocks, in order that the two wire braces are not in the way, (you will have to remove the two clock mounting bolts in order to get the grill back in position).
Finally, put all the bits back together, make sure it all moves freely and locks up on the knob, then go out and play.
Apologies if this is loooong winded, but it's a sort of step by step account of a seat of the pants experiment and no I'm a crap welder and not an engineer, but it works, that'll do me
