OK, so in watching the video, some diagnostic questions come to mind.
1) if disconnecting / reconnecting the grey connector will cause the solenoid to activate, and if it works every time, it would indicate to me there's a signal (voltage) problem that occurs when the key is depressed and the solenoid fails to respond.
2) where does the solenoid get it's signal from when the key is depressed to start the sequence? Does depressing the key trigger a momentary switch to power the solenoid?
3) I am apparently missing how the spring in the solenoid has been diagnosed as the issue. It appears that the momentary activation of the solenoid is to pull the solenoid piston down, then it's released and in the locked position (piston up) when the solenoid is not activated. since it takes the solenoid to activate to allow the key to be turned to start, how is a stronger spring helping that? I only see the spring being helpful in returning the solenoid to the de-activated / locked position. What am I missing here?
4) I'm thinking that he's mis-identifying the source of the problem. I base this on the fact that when functioning properly, there's a limited amount of time to turn the key, or the solenoid releases the piston. Yet when depressing the switch there's enough time to whack the ignition and it's only after said whacking that the solenoid activates. I'm thinking there's a momentary switch elsewhere that is actually the problem.
5) I seem to remember pics that indicated the stuck spring was on the left side of the ignition, not the right side as the solenoid is. This would be the momentary switch I'm thinking of.
Comments? Steve