Successfully bled my brake fluid using a mityvac, even though I did empty the reservoir once and had to do the top bleed as well.I never did do this. ↑
However after reading this thread, I'm actually thinking of just removing the dirty fluid from the clutch top reservoir and replacing it without a full system bleed.
Perhaps empty it half way, add more fluid then just remove as much dirt and old fluid as I can without letting it get too low.
Am reading this thread with a measure of trepidation, but I think -- thanks to you who have commented -- I'll be prepared for this puppy.
I ordered the HF part no. 92924. There is a different model, different part number, but it's sold in the store only. As I live 2 hours from the nearest HF, hey, I'll take my chances with this guy.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
I've got two small compressors, one of which is a 5 gal. pancake style. And the requisite hose and fittings. (Can't remember the last time I used it, so it's probably time to dust it off.)
Here is my experience. I've replaced the fluid in my clutch and brake systems every two years on my 08 which now has 73K miles. This past spring I went on a ride and noticed the clutch had excess play when the bike got warm. I bled the clutch again and all was fine for a little while when just riding down the highway the clutch lever went all the way to the grip with no resistance. I stopped and after about an hour it was fine again. I went home and bled it again with some air in the fluid. This happened a couple of times with no one able to explain it. I finally went to the local Kawi dealer to buy a rebuild kit for the master cylinder. I talked to their mechanic and he said I needed a new clutch hose. He's seen the same symptoms on a few Connies with some age and many miles. The hose gets warm and bad things happen. So I bought a new hose and a master cylinder rebuild kit since I had it apart anyway. I've yet to install the parts to test it out. Been busy and I have a second bike so what's the rush?
I was going to wait until after I replaced all the components and tested it before posting but I'll let you know in a week or so what I find.
I did use a power bleeder but it didn't cure the symptoms. It was a friends homemade power bleeder but still pulled a vacuum. Anyway, I have a compressed air power bleeder now. The fact that the technician had the same symptoms on multiple bikes tells me that I and he are on the right track. It could be my hose (easy guys, to borrow a phrase) is in worse shape than yours due to riding factors. I've spent a lot of time in stop and go traffic during my 73,000 miles which might cause more heat related issues with the hose.
All I can say is after spending $130 for the hose and another $50 for the master rebuild kit, it better cure the problem.
Another observation is that I should have been lubing the pivot pin on the clutch grip. It was in bad shape with some corrosion and completely dry. After some cleanup with scotch brite and some lube I hope it works better going forward. I think they should include a new pin in with the master rebuild kit.
Best of luck with your bike but it sounds like you have things well in hand with the path you are taking.
When the master, calipers and brake line were changed on my other bike, bleeding them out was very difficult. Someone on another forum recommended that I hook small hoses up to the bleeders and raise them up to an elevated bucket. By doing this, I was able to work the micro bubbles out and not have to worry about opening/closing the bleeder 10,000 times. It worked like a charm.Had the exact same bike... miss it every day. And those flames on the tank make it go super fast! In all seriousness, I love the VMAX!
I don't know why this topic jumped to the top of my display, but it did.
One thing that helped me, in bleeding the clutch, is to adjust the clutch lever so the span between it, and the grip, was at 100%. Once I did that, the motion the master cylinder saw was larger, and the air bubles were released, no problem.
Someone probably knows this answer, too. I have the low end , mityvac bleeder. The plastic one. I typically just use it on the cars. Rarely on the bike.
But, when I do, it's a real pos. I fight the handle falling off, and it will corrode if left for more than a week, or two.
Is the metal mityvac better, Or is there another brand I should be looking at?
Thank you BDF. I have a home compressor. Its small (3hp). Its also old enough (late 80s) that it says, "Made in America" on it.
It has to be a better option than the mity vac. Like you say, once you factor in the leaks, I think I can pee more brake fluid than the might vac will move. Im also tired of dealing with its handle.
The handle issue is just a symptom. The real problem is trying to hurry so as to not lose the vacuum thats there...and yes, its just a flawed system.
90.00 does sound like a lot, but I'll save way more than that by using it on the car, once.
I appreciate the advise and I ordered one this morning. I bought the Mity Vac mv 6830. The ebay price was 122.00. Extremely cheap if it avoids having to replace an abs pump, or other component. Plus, its goign to be faster and easier to work with. I can do this, yearly, if I want to .
Probably overkill, for the motorcycles. The concours 14 clutch is the only one ive ever fought with.. This might nice for that...we'll see.
A friend on the ninja 1000 forum had his abs pump go bad on his 2012 ninja 1000 abs. Kawasaki warrantied the pump, despite his bike being way out of warranty.
Ive been much more aware of aged brake fluid since I saw the price of his pump would have been 1200.00. No one mentioned old brake fluid as being his cause/issue, but its all we have control over.
The HF tool has decent reviews. I may give it a go as I wont use it a lot.
Are bleeder valves leaking around the threads less of an issue with a pump?
Wayne