3. It's not a sure thing that the volt/throttle-% curve is linear. While the two end points may or may not change with a recalibration the points in between may have been built to a best-fit curve based on an average of flow characteristics of several reference intake assemblies. There are manufacturing tolerances for the TBs, intake runners, etc. that the KHI engineers would have to take into account when making fuel/ignition maps. Since driveability is based on the mid-points rather than the end points, a recal algorithm could have more effect on the mid-points than the end points.
Actually, the volt/throttle-%/TPS curve is linear. I've checked it during previous tests long before this discussion ever started, and the two end points do not change either, unless you physically adjust the TPS on the side of the throttlebodies. Keep in mind that the throttle and TPS rotation is only a quarter of a complete revolution. If the TPS output was not linear in such a short sweep, the throttle response would be extremely erratic.
The fueling table/graph in he ECU is actually very simple....much more simple than people realize. The voltage output of the TPS points to a specific percentage column in the fuel table. Now, the percentage line of the columns is not linear...it is very flat until approximately 10-15% throttle opening, at which point it starts to curve up. Once the throttle hits approximately 50%, the line is almost straight up. This is because past 50% throttle, the increase in RPMs is so fast, the ECU does not have time to make a lot of changes.
If you were able to un-calibrate the TPS electronically, you would see more than just a hesitation in the throttle, you would see wild RPM swings and very erratic throttle response....overheating, knocking, stalling, etc. I don't think anybody has reported these symptoms have they?
I suspect what is happening with the two full rotations of the throttle is that people are freeing-up stuck or sticky throttle cables, or perhaps dirt and debris is lodged inside the throttle tube housing, or between the throttle and the handlebar, etc. I doubt most sport touring bikes ever get the throttle pegged to WOT a couple times in a row, so in doing this, I could see a "re-calibration" of the mechanical components happening...they will get dirty/sticky over time. I'm just speculating of course;). This would explain why you cannot un-calibrate it once it's been calibrated, and why it would have no effect on a good working C14.
Rem