In my few years of riding I've mainly owned Hondas, including the 84 Sabre, 83 Goldwing, 94 Goldwing, and a 96 CBR 600. I've also owned a 96 Suzuki Intruder.

I love Goldwings, but my low budget lands me in the 75-83 range and the parts on those are depleting fast. I also don't have advanced knowledge on working on motorcycles. My other issue was that I wanted to take turns tighter than the Goldwing could handle and ended up scratching the bottom of the Goldwing. A few times it kicked the bike off the rear tire and I'm surprised it didn't throw me off.

I've recently came across a 1986 Kawasaki Concours for sale. I really like the way it looks and the fact that the word "touring" is in the description attracts me even more. All I know is the following:

bought bike a month ago , replaced oil cooler line , changed oil + filter, also changed coolant, replaced speedometer cable, have on order rear trunk with backrest, also speakers, bike needs nothing, leaks nothing, selling do to uncomfortable riding position.

Talked with the guy over the phone. Says he bought it for $1,200 and is looking to get $1,500 for the parts he paid for. Says that the riding position is uncomfortable and he's used to Goldwings, so he's going back. Also said he got a back rest that he ordered, but his girlfriend doesn't like to ride on it because she feels she's going to fall off of it. In the pictures, the motorcycle looks pristine. Very clean and well taken care of.

Want I want to know from you is what to watch out for or common problems that the 86 may have had. He said that he changed the oil, filter, and coolant, so if there were any symptoms that could be seen through the oil, they're gone now. What can I watch out for in general as well? I seem to have bad luck when it comes to buying motorcycles. Sabre and Intruder were fine, 83 Goldwing had rear brake problems as well as a click in the engine, CBR 600 was too small for me and vice grips fell out of it, and the 94 had some kind of vacuum leak, but I couldn't keep it because I had to move. That left me to be hesitant and over cautious.

What do you guys think?

Realized the typo in my title. Meant to write buy. I also forgot to add that the mileage is 18,000. I think...

Welcome to the forum, Goldwing. I can't help you with the '86 but those who can will be along. I can understand the CBR being to small but wouldn't the vise grips be a plus? 

The C10 is rock solid. With only 18K on the odo this one has plenty of life left in it. I've read where some of the early models had a problem with tuliping valves but I've never seen a photo or actual post of someone finding the problem. So few miles may mean carb problems but that can be fixed. If the plastic is in decent shape I say go for it. On a side note Motorcyle Classic magazine has a small piece on the C10 in this months magazine. Nothing but positive comments. C10's will be on the road for a long time.

As CM said, the only thing "specific" to the '86 model was the possibility of tuliping valves (that I know of) but that seems to be sporatic.  Hopefully someone else will tell you if there is an "easy" way to tell if it has this condition.  The '86 also had the lowest handle bars (perhaps least comfortable).  This maybe why the current owner doesn't like it.  They can be replaced with any other model's bars and then add bar risers to gain @ 2.5" lift and an additional @ 2" back.  Some owners have sought out the early bars for a more sport bike feel.

Hydrolock (bent rods) could be an issue and can be checked by following the proceedures on a sticky in the "The Bike - C10" section if the seller lets you.  It involves removing the tank and plugs (quite easy actually).

Does it matter if it has been dropped?  check the footpeg ends for bending, and dents on the tank where the inside fairing covers hit it.  Elvin has a good write up with links and checklists for this, but I can't find it.  Do a search for him and his posts - maybe he'll be along and let us know or send him a message here.

Anything else would be pretty much what you would look for on any older bike: tires, rubber parts, leaks, brake and clutch fluids, seat, etc.

There is a huge amount of farkles and performance products available for this bike.  It was produced from '86 thru '06.  Don't know what farkles are?  Look it up.  Murph is pretty much the best palce to get anything you need.  Top-notch service, great price, and fast delivery.

Depending on where you are, the price sounds acceptable to me.

Alright guys, add some more that I missed.

Thanks for the quick responses. When I read about the C10, I only read positive comments, so I was ready to go pick it up this upcoming Sunday.

Usually the "bought it a month ago" would throw up a flag though. It didn't really bother me since he mentioned riding position. Today, I got to wake up to a text saying that it has a Salvage title. He doesn't know what for and that he's had it at 85 on the highway with no shakes.

I've had experience buying Salvage cars with my old man and I know a thing or two about the potential to get burnt on a car. I'm unfamiliar with buying a salvage motorcycle. That fact that he bought it a month ago makes me feel like he bought it, fixed a few things, and then realized there were more problems that weren't worth fixing.

I read that scratched up plastics might cause a salvage title, but I feel you can only know for sure if you saw it in its "salvaged" state.

An older bike pushed over on the centerstand in your own driveway is quite often "totaled" because of the current value vs. the replacement parts if an insurance company is involved.  Damage the fairing, fairing frame, mirror, windshield, signal marker, side fairing, side panel, snap a peg off, add some labor and it gets expensive.  I'm not saying get it by any means, but to just take it into consideration.  Totaling a bike is "usually" a cosmetic thing that is easily corrected by an experienced wrencher in the garage for far less money.  Sometimes the forks get replaced if a rear-ender happened if the bike hit what was in front of it.  I'd still look at it and let that perhaps be a price reducer if the bike is still to your liking.  Any way to research the title to see what happened (CARFAX?).

In VA we don't do "salvaged" titles that I know of.  It's either titled or not - no middle ground.

Oh yeah, take a look at the bolt where the fairing frame (thin tube steel assembly) is bolted to the steering stem right on the opposite side of the ignition key.  Those have a habit of breaking out if not checkedfrequently.  Some bikes have been known to have rope of cable ties there.  When it come loose it can damage the tabs that bolt the plastics together.  That's hassle to fix even if you are a welder.  This can happen to any year as it was never improved by Kawasaki.

How's the inside of the gas tank?

Anyone think it has 118,000 on it?
Wayne

Today, I got to wake up to a text saying that it has a Salvage title. He doesn't know what for and that he's had it at 85 on the highway with no shakes.

I he has a salvage title, that would mean he has not re-titled it into his name, after buying it from someone that had it salvage titled...

this essentially means he cannot get plates for it, because the title is not currently in his name...(just signed over to him)
This doubles the conundrum if he attempts to sell it to you, as a second buyer, with a title that comes from the person he bought it off of.
If he cannot get a clear title in his name, and noted as the owner, or a valid vehicle registration along with it... you are gonna have painful proceedings...

imho, I'd walk away fast.

RFN

That's what I found to be the case as well, but usually people know why it was totalled. When I've looked at salvaged/rebuilt titled bikes/cars, people usually tell me why. I feel that if it was a simple fairing issue, the seller would promote that vs. saying they have no idea and he bought it with the salvage title. That's what makes me a little more weary of the situation. I haven't seen the bike in person yet. It's two hours away and the seller says he can't show it until Sunday.

KZZ

Could be. Usually a touring labeled bike comes with higher miles.

Man

When buying salvaged vehicles in Illinois, you have to get them inspected and then the title becomes rebuilt if it passes. I live in Iowa now. When I transferred my vehicle, is a rebuilt here as well. I didn't think about it, but if titling works here the same way as in Illinois, it hasn't passed an inspection yet. I'll have to look into it.

I don't recall if our odometers roll-over after 99,999.9 miles.  Only been looking at it 25 years.  Brain cramp.  Doesn't mean it is the original odo either.

On the carbs, yes, could most likely be cleaned if needed but if you are not inclined to tackle that work, it will probably cost $400-$500?

Other things which might be needed due to age, if they've never been replaced (especially)
Radiator Hoses $80 plus labor if you don't install
Water inlet tube O-rings, cheap but pain to install, prob have to remove carbs
Brake and clutch hoses
Tires (check date codes and if older than say 6 years, or weather checked, get new set tires) could cost $250 tires, $50-100 mount/balance
Tank - if tank hasn't been lined, there may be rust in the lower corners.  Check for exterior signs of discoloration of paint or pinholes

Summit

It has no history. He told he he bought it a month ago and he's sticking to it. Beside the oil cooler lines and fluid swaps, he has no knowledge of anything that may have been done to the bike. He says the tires are "pretty damn good" and I didn't ask about the tank when I first talked to him. The history of the bike ended with the owner before this one. The only thing there could be something and that's carfax, but it would only state the obvious. Work he did could have been either simply maintenance of a part of what he restored if he had gotten it totaled.

Except for the coolant log O-rings, the others can be a visual inspection judgment call on whether they are good or need to be replaced.

If the coolant log O-rings aren't leaking, then don't worry about it.

If it needs a valve adjustment and you use a shop to do that, I imagine it will run $300 or more but I wouldn't know since I do my own.  I'd say unless they can convince you it's been done in the last 8000 miles, it should be done as a preventative measure.

I don't recall if our odometers roll-over after 99,999.9 miles.  Only been looking at it 25 years.  Brain cramp.  Doesn't mean it is the original odo either.

THEY DO...

MOB - what is story on first pic where there is 78 on trip but 0 on odo?

I talked with the seller some more today. He had told me that he bought the bike not knowing it had a salvage title. He took the fairings off and replaced that cooler line as well as replacing the fluid. Said he had no problems with it shaking on the highway or anything that may indicated damage to the frame or other parts that could effect stability. He also said the previous owner had lost the mounting brackets for the bike. When he got it, he fitted an aluminum one and basically bolted the bags in place.

Assuming that he doesn't know much about the bike history and it actually did roll over 100,000 miles, should I still consider purchasing it? When i had my 94 Goldwing, it had about 125k parts of it were starting to dry rot and leak, so I'm wondering what I would be expecting maintenance wise in the near future IF the mileage is up in that 120k range.

Edit: I finally remember to ask what the mileage was. 29,000. That seems low to me considering it's almost 30 years old and is considered a touring bike.

100K is still young for this bike. I Know of well maintained zg1000's on there 3rd time round.

100K is still young for this bike. I Know of well maintained zg1000's on there 3rd time round.

In that case, I'll go check it out. Hopefully he can show it during the week, that way I can get it checked out by a mechanic.

MOB - what is story on first pic where there is 78 on trip but 0 on odo?

That was the day my 86 rolled over from 99,999.9
I had to ride around the parking area to get them all aligned

http://www.iowalegalaid.org/resource/salvage-vehicles
http://www.iowadot.gov/mvd/omve/salvage.html