Rear shock failure

[elektradw]

My 2011 has 55k on it but never ride it like a sport bike. I guess at 64 I'm not a thrill seeker anymore and way too cautious. Been on a lot of challenging roads but don't push it like I did on previous bikes. i look over the edge and imagine myself careening down the canyon head first. Anyway, even riding it in moderation the rear shock failed at 55k. No more adjustment in the preload cartridge. Without any preload it was way too soft.  Upon returning from my last trip up the California coast and a quick inspection it was noted that all the oil leaked out the adjusting canister at the fitting. Fixed at local Ride Now in L.V. under warranty and we're back in business. I must admit a new shock w/preload adjusted to 15 clicks and rebound 1.75 turns out made quite a difference (Im a svelte 240).  It feels like a brand new bike. Other than changing out the front brake rotors to EBCs and the windshield/dashboard front mounting bolts coming loose, I have not had any issues at all with this bike. Burns no oil between 5k changes and consistently gets 40+mpg on the highway. Have not done valve shims or spark plugs and probably wont until  it passes the 100k mark, that is if I keep it that long, as a new 2015 might be in the cards.

[MAN OF BLUES]

 
Good luck with that... and be sure to tell the person you are dumping the bike on about the valves.....

[rcannon409]

Incredible mileage on that bike, and I'm envious.

Man of Blues, your wrong.  I know because i subscribe to Rider magazine. You not supposed to check valves because it ca do more harm than good.  Heck, I'm sure the same could be said about oil changes, too.  Or showering.....

I think I'd want  a look at the valves.  Get them set, if needed, and go for another 100k.

[VirginiaJim]

 

[maxtog]

Indeed.

Well, it has been several months since a "valves on the Concours really don't need to be checked anywhere near as often as indicated" thread...

[elektradw]

Well MOB I dont plan on dumping the bike on anyone as you so boldly suggest. Im from the old school "If it aint broke dont fix it." All you have to do is look at the recommended replacement interval for the iridium spark plugs to get a really good laugh. To each his own. Not suggesting anyone do or not do anything just commenting. BTW not trying to start a valve adjustment thread, I know how passionate some get about it, just commenting on the rear shock failure and thought I would mention some real time information

[omcrider]

Are the shocks on this bike rebuildable or did they replace with a new one?

[VirginiaJim]

They're not rebuildable...

[seagiant]

Hi,
     Well there's nothing sayin one rear shock is like another. I'm 275 and my rear preload is at 24 and feels good to me? At the COG "Wrench In" last week in Florida alot of guys were resetting their shocks by a popular guide line? I did not get involved as I'm good to go but the words "under sprung" was tossed around and just about anyone over 200lbs was up to almost max on the pre load!

  All that to say 15 clicks does not sound like to much for your weight!

[texrider]

http://www.epmperf.com/streetbox.html

[elektradw]

I set my suspension preload for sag at about 35mm. This results at 15 clicks for one up on the rear and 4 1/2 lines showing on the front shock preload adjustment. I usually go to 20 on the rear when loaded up for traveling and keep the front the same. Seems about right for me. Maybe Im not really 240 and have a defective scale? I don't, however, push it too hard in the corners and prefer a little softer ride.

[Daytona_Mike]

http://www.epmperf.com/streetbox.html

That money could be better spent on something-well--->better
that rear shock is outdated technology or in another words-->crap because of this:  Hyperpro's 460-series emulsion shock
At least get  a valved shock for your money.

[texrider]

Perhaps a more upscale unit for all the big spenders...

http://www.orientexpress.com/Kawasaki-Touring-ZG1400Concours_p-7294-ohlins-suspension-kawasaki.aspx

[Daytona_Mike]

You better check your valves. Not doing an adjustment is one thing. Not even CHECKING is just dumb and asking for major trouble. I am being honest and just trying to help you so do not shoot the messenger.  They will be very tight at 55k if it has never been done. As a matter of fact at 55k your probably  going to start to  loose compression and  then start burning valves and seats. MOB is correct. You are going to inform the next owner that you never did the proper maintenance let alone CHECKED. Right??
At the very least some valve gaps will be  near gone with out a doubt. I have seen 2 different C14's done myself and both  were out of spec too tight at or below 24k miles.

I have the Ohlins. It makes the stock shock feel like junk. You can buy a Penske for less than half with a new proper spring which you need to do anyway. The Penske would be the way to go on a budget.
Pre-load will never help you no matter how much you add if the spring rate is wrong . Your sag will be too great.
Pre-load has nothing to do with how hard or soft the spring is. It has to to with Ride-height and proper chassis geometry.

No more adjustment in the preload cartridge. Without any preload it was way too soft.