Yup, you do not need to cut the tool if you don't loosen both. But how did you tighten the axle to nearly 100 ft. lbs. without two hex drives of some type? The 'leave the nut tight' trick only works if the axle had been up to correct torque and the pinch bolts left alone. Otherwise if you clamp the nut before you tighten the axle, you cannot know the flanges of the nut are bearing on the recess in the fork. The idea is to put the axle, inner wheel bearing races, and all spacers and spacer tubes under great tensile force to make them behave as a single unit.
Brian
Heya Brian,
This is interesting. Do you always use two hex drivers to tighten front axles? To be honest, I don't think it ever occurred to me to do so.
I always remove the nut and the axle to remove the front wheel. To re-install, I put the axle and nut back in, and tighten a bit more than hand tight. I then go to the right hand side, and give the axle a couple good smacks with my rubber mallet to make sure the axle shoulder is seated in the fork leg, then tighten to the two clamp screws by hand. Then I torque the axle nut on the left hand side, then tighten the two left side clamp screws.
I'll have to try the old dual hex way sometime and see if I can manage it by myself...lol.
PS: Here's my main hex tool...it's a 3/4" drive with a 1/2" adapter in it for my breaker bar and torque wrench.