Diameter of stock exhaust looks to be 5", distance from top of exhaust to lowest point of bag at back of exhaust is aprox. 1 3/4", distance from exhaust to lowest point of bag at the front of the bag is aprox. 1 1/4".
HTH
Just to throw something else out there. Don't forget that some of us (maybe most of us) run either the foot "Scoops" or the hockey stick shaped "fairing extenders" air deflectors, if that has any impact on the design. There could also be lowered foot peg assemblies also.
My main concern r.e. the front guard is unbolting it. With the fairing on, there is no easy way to access the nut on the other side of the front engine mount (where the top of your bar attaches to), and even then it can be a pain to try to snake a wrench in there. I'm not sure what the solution to that is, but I'm guessing you might have one already in mind?
Another thing to keep in mind is that some of us end up inserting a washer between the engine mount and the frame mount, as the frame naturally seems to have a slight gap on one side. This helps slightly with the handlebar buzz. I mention this, as it might be slightly annoying to unthread the bolt and here that washer go 'plink' and disappear somewhere...
I hope this feedback is helping. Kinda surprised our veteran C-10'ers haven't commented yet...
Looking at your lower mount, is the 'L/Z' bracket that attaches to the frame threaded on the bar end? I see the hex head bolt there, which if it threaded into the mount would be easy to remove with a socket and extension.
If so, similar treatment on top (introducing a similar bracket with a threaded receptacle) would allow you to just unbolt the bar without messing with the engine mount. Also, if you are using a nut on the other side instead of threading the step bracket, spot welding the nut to the step bracket would be a piece of cake. That way, no worries about falling nuts, etc.
The removable feature I mentioned I personally would pay extra for, if strength could be maintained (perhaps a solid steel rod that the tubular bar slips over would do the trick), but I'm not sure how much expense we'd be talking, and C-10ers are known for being frugal.
Also, I'm sure you were clear on this already, but here is an example of those double button locking pins I was mentioning earlier... this would work with a double tube design (insert these inside the inner tube).
http://www.valcocleve.com/products.asp?subcategory=Double%20End%20%28D%20Series%29&cat=snap
I'm kinda liking the solid steel shaft idea though (Connies are heavy) with the outer tubular sleeve. You could use a cap screw that threads through the shaft and out the other side (head at the top, excess length at the bottom, so tube is secured on both sides of the shaft). Tapping the steel shaft with threads would be manpower intensive, however unless you could find some shafts with pre-threaded holes in them. Its a fun idea anyways...
Just so you realize, there are probably quite few people interested in the ease of removability for this product for maintenance. Otherwise, what you're making is already on the market. We're just sitting here and listening. Also, in the grand scheme of things, some users would probably need to purchase replacement parts for when the rider has a mishap. I modular product is a big plus to that.
Another cool "option" for the front bars would be to request (at order time) a generic bracket or tab to be welded on for aux lights if a generic sized tab is available. That way, you wouldn’t need to buy extra brackets for lights. Maybe this is not possible due to the wide range of light sizes, although if welded out towards the outer edge, almost anything would fit and still be protected by the bar.
I won’t even mention pre-welded foot peg brackets or complete assemblies that riders might want.
I hope I didn't come across wrong. What I meant was we are all hoping and giving input into this to have a better choice and to ultimately have a better product available. Sturdy brackets and quick removal (or lack of) are at the top of the list from most of the posts in the past. We are definitely hoping yours is a better and can do more than just protect the bike from a "garage drop" as the other product does.
I have a nice all black debadged C-10 that I would never put the other brackets on simply because of their looks. I'm hoping yours look "cool" or at least blend in well. For me, matte black would be a better choice than gloss black.
Sounds like things are moving right along Ryan! I think your upper bracket idea may be the winner. Removing the bar easily for maintenance is a big deal. The plastic has to come off for just about any type of work, so that means it comes off often. I also like the revised rear bar mounts. The first design looked like it may have interfered with the passengers feet. BTW - That's a good looking bike you have there.