Lowering the pegs

[TJ]

I plan on installing a set of lower foot pegs next month. Can anyone point me to a link with photos on how to do it?
Thanks

[clogan]

Assuming you are talking about lowered driver pegs, not passenger pegs: Can't help you with a link to pics or anything, but can reassure you that is indeed very, very easy. You should be able to figure it out simply by looking at the old pegs. It's a 5-minute job, tops. Hardest part for me was finding the c-clip after I popped it off the OEM peg, LOL! If you don't lose the c/clips, it's probably a minute per side to swap factory pegs for lowered pegs.

Passenger peg swap is likely similarly easy, but not having done the job myself, I cannot attest to its ease.

[Gumby]

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14749.0

[clogan]

Assuming you are talking about lowered driver pegs, not passenger pegs: Can't help you with a link to pics or anything, but can reassure you that is indeed very, very easy. You should be able to figure it out simply by looking at the old pegs. It's a 5-minute job, tops. Hardest part for me was finding the c-clip after I popped it off the OEM peg, LOL! If you don't lose the c/clips, it's probably a minute per side to swap factory pegs for lowered pegs.

Passenger peg swap is likely similarly easy, but not having done the job myself, I cannot attest to its ease.

I am embarrassed; I should have added that there is much more to consider. The actual swap out of the pegs themselves is very easy. However, there is more work to do. After installing lowered pegs, the shifter and brake pedal positions likewise must be adjusted to compensate for the new, lower foot positions. Adjusting the shifter is fairly easy, but the brake pedal is a bit more involved. And depending on foot size, boot design etc., finding an agreeable brake pedal position for lowered pegs may be a challenge in itself.

My apologies for not including that in my first response.
It's still pretty easy, tho.

[TJ]

Murphs pegs arrived. How do you adjust the shifter downward?

[RubiconMike]

Shifter is easy. There is a jam nut at each end of the turnbuckle. Loosen them both (remember, one is left hand thread), then turn the turnbuckle until the shifter is where you want it. Tighten up both jam nuts and you're done!

Since you're working on that area already, you should get Murph's bearing replacement for the shifter bushing and change that too. Follow the instructions that come with the kit, it's very easy too!

[TJ]

Thanks, kind of thought that was how you did it but wanted to confirm there were enough threads on the turnbuckle to move the shifter that much.

[Rhino]

Beware of adjusting the rear brake. If you over do it, it can lead to constant pressure on the rear pads causing them the over heat and fail. Some (including myself) have cut 1/4 inch off the stud on the master. It turns out I didn't like the lower pegs and put it back to normal. No problem with the cut stud. The took it in for the brake recall and no problem there either.

[TJ]

Why didn't you like the lowered pegs?

[Rhino]

Why didn't you like the lowered pegs?

Made for a different posture and didn't feel as comfortable. I have long torso but short legs for someone 6'. I think that's why the lowered pegs weren't right for me.