Author Topic: Blackout during riding (Read 17539 times)

ZG · « **Reply #20 on:** July 26, 2013, 05:30:49 PM »

reesedp · « **Reply #21 on:** July 26, 2013, 05:54:15 PM »

After watching Close Encounters again last week aliens get my vote. Glad to hear youre okay and that they didnt actually make it to the abduction part!

reesedp · « **Reply #22 on:** July 26, 2013, 05:54:46 PM »

Quote from: ZG on July 26, 2013, 05:30:49 PM

SCORPIONS [ BLACKOUT ] LIVE '84.

AWWWWWWW YEAAHHHHHHHH!!!!

Ron Dawg · « **Reply #23 on:** July 26, 2013, 07:52:18 PM »

Quote from: reesedp on July 26, 2013, 05:54:15 PM

After watching Close Encounters again last week aliens get my vote. Glad to hear youre okay and that they didnt actually make it to the abduction part!

That's what I was thinking.

Locksmith · « **Reply #24 on:** July 26, 2013, 08:11:53 PM »

I had that happen to me once on my 09. I loosened and re tightened the battery ground and it never happened again. I don't believe the bike will run without a battery connected.

My incident happened in a parking lot.

wroman · « **Reply #25 on:** July 26, 2013, 09:19:49 PM »

I second the battery connections mainly the ground connection. Remove and clean/sand the connections, apply some dielectric grease. Max I am not sure most modern vehicles will run with the battery disconnected. Just because the battery is one year old don't assume it is good. Spent 20 years in car service and I learned not to assume. While you are cleaning the cables test battery at least for volts. A strong well charged battery will be around 13..2 volts, if you don't get over 12 volts see if it will take a charge and check again.

Rafdog · « **Reply #26 on:** July 26, 2013, 09:50:45 PM »

I had the same thing happen to me a few weeks ago! $:-\$ I was going around a corner and the only vehicle around was the one I was behind. I had the same symptoms as you except that I clutched in and clutched out and the engine started again. It was very disconcerting to have this happen. As soon as I got home I checked my battery connections and looked around under the seat to make sure all the wire connections were tight. Everything looked good.

I thought maybe the car in front of me might have been emitting some kind of radio interference. It was an older car and it was the only vehicle around me. This was a country road so I'm sure there was nothing else.

Pilgrim · « **Reply #27 on:** July 27, 2013, 07:39:22 AM »

Rafdog, What year/model are you driving?

motocopter · « **Reply #28 on:** July 27, 2013, 09:25:22 AM »

Quote from: Rafdog on July 26, 2013, 09:50:45 PM

I had the same thing happen to me a few weeks ago! $:-\$ ... I thought maybe the car in front of me might have been emitting some kind of radio interference. It was an older car and it was the only vehicle around me. This was a country road so I'm sure there was nothing else.

Random testing of a localized EMP project funded by DARPA! You'll have those black helicopters hovering over your house soon enough now that you've posted about it.

BMahar · « **Reply #29 on:** July 27, 2013, 11:15:14 AM »

I have a 2002 Honda Blackbird and when the battery went below 12 volts the motorcycle would not run as there wasn't enough power to run all the systems including the FI. The battery was approximately 3 years old and when I replaced it the bike ran normally. So, I think if you disconnect the battery on the Concours the same thing would happen.
However, I'm not willing to try disconnecting the battery on my Concours to find out if the same thing happens.
Brent

lather · « **Reply #30 on:** July 27, 2013, 04:46:34 PM »

Typically a motorcycle stator (which the C14 has) generates AC current of between 18 and 65 volts depending on RPM. This current goes only to the Regulator/Rectifier which converts it to 13.5~14.5 DC which goes only to the battery. At least that's how it is wired on my VFR. I have not disected the C14 charging system but I suspect it is the same. If the battery is not connected to the R/R or to ground I am pretty sure the bike will not run.

clogan · « **Reply #31 on:** July 27, 2013, 05:06:39 PM »

Bad or weak batteries can cause strange problems!

The heater "broke" on my 2008 F-150...only blew cold air. Turns out my battery was weak. Strong enough to start the truck, but did not provide sufficient voltage to HVAC controller. A new battery "fixed" my heater. Go figure.

Weak battery on my 'Vette caused strange messages on dash message board (GM calls it a "Driver Information Center"). Anyhow, it kept telling me to service the stability control system, to verify the traction control, etc, etc. I installed a new battery, and all these weird messages stopped.

B.D.F. · « **Reply #32 on:** July 27, 2013, 06:33:00 PM »

I think you already got some excellent thoughts and advise. I will just repeat what has already been said that I believe is exactly correct: you have suffered a loose battery cable or battery to frame cable connection. Disconnect, clean and reinstall both cables on the battery as well as the ground cable where it attaches to the frame and I think you will be all set.

It cannot be the kill switch because as many have said, that would not cause all power to be lost on the bike, only the engine.

It cannot be KiPass although that is always the first thing you should blame under any circumstance and for any problem.

But in fact KiPass cannot interfere with the running of the bike, only the starting of the bike; KiPass simply cannot stop the bike from running.

In the olden days, once a car was running you could disconnect the battery and it would continue to run as long as the alternator was working; in other words, the alternator would provide all power needed to run the vehicle indefinately. Modern vehicles, starting back in the '80's it seems, stop running immediately when the battery is disconnected even when the alternator is performing correctly. So I suspect a C-14 will do this also and a loose battery cable will shut everything down on the bike when the connection is broken.

If it is not a loose cable, then it may be the circuit between the battery and the main harness, and that circuit includes the main fuse which is located next to the starter solenoid behind the battery. I really do doubt it is that that is causing your problem but it is possible.

Best of luck with the fix.

Brian

Quote from: garfield1974 on July 26, 2013, 05:26:57 AM

Hi, all.

I had a terrifying experience last night so I would like to ask if anybody had an idea of a cause.

<snip>

So please share your thoughts and experiences (if any).

Thanks in advance

Gordan

bluedogok · « **Reply #33 on:** July 27, 2013, 09:21:43 PM »

Quote from: clogan on July 27, 2013, 05:06:39 PM

Bad or weak batteries can cause strange problems!

The heater "broke" on my 2008 F-150...only blew cold air. Turns out my battery was weak. Strong enough to start the truck, but did not provide sufficient voltage to HVAC controller. A new battery "fixed" my heater. Go figure.

Weak battery on my 'Vette caused strange messages on dash message board (GM calls it a "Driver Information Center"). Anyhow, it kept telling me to service the stability control system, to verify the traction control, etc, etc. I installed a new battery, and all these weird messages stopped.

A weak battery can cause all sorts of odd things to happen, a weak alternator in addition to a weak battery can cause it not to run. I had that happen in a car, got a jump and after pulling the jump pack off the car died, it turned out to be the alternator. It couldn't supply enough charge to the battery but the thing with that was it just wouldn't start afterwards, I had it towed to a shop (on a Sunday afternoon in Arlington, Texas, 104 degrees and needing to get back to OKC). The only time that I have had a car die while driving was an 85 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, it would restart 20-30 minutes after dying. I had to replace an ignition module in the bottom of the distributor.

Does the C14 have a car type alternator or generator/regulator-rectifier type of charging system?

VirginiaJim · « **Reply #34 on:** July 28, 2013, 05:32:21 AM »

Not that it can't happen but the alternator is rock solid on this bike. I seriously doubt that's the issue.

BudCallaghan · « **Reply #35 on:** July 28, 2013, 06:20:06 AM »

It has to be the negative (ground) cable to the battery, either the battery end or the frame end. If the positive cable to the battery is disconnected, the alternator will still keep things going. But when the negative is disconnected by whatever means, everything electrical shuts down as the circuit is broken. It may not actually be the cable or its connections, it could have been some sort of temporarily open circuit inside the battery itself. Naturally, I could be wrong but to my sense of logic, the above reasons stated are the only plausible explanation.

To check my assumption I did not disconnect the negative cable on my motorcycle but did do just that on an older Toyota with fuel injection. With it running and with the lights on I disconnected the ground cable and all was immediately silent and dark. Reconnection of the negative cable resulted in resumption of all electrical services.

ARS · « **Reply #36 on:** July 28, 2013, 09:24:02 AM »

Whew! After reading the title, I thought someone passed out while riding. Like a train wreck I had to look. Glad I was wrong.

VirginiaJim · « **Reply #37 on:** July 28, 2013, 09:29:24 AM »

Well, don't feel left out...I had the same thoughts.

Rhino · « **Reply #38 on:** July 28, 2013, 12:24:32 PM »

Me too!

garfield1974 · « **Reply #39 on:** July 28, 2013, 01:27:56 PM »

Well, I am riding for last couple of days without any problems.
I checked the battery connections, ground connections, ECU connections and all is solid tight and no loose screws or connections.
I tried the kill switch during riding and , yes, the power was still on, only engine died.
I wonder if that blackout would leave any trace in the ECU for service guy to check in the computer as a fault ?
Since it was one time occurrence and all looks running OK, now, I guess that it would be of no use to take bike to service man, except if there could be a fault recorded somewhere in the ECU.

Sorry if the title of the topic was confusing, but running 70+ mph during night outside town while overtaking car and suddenly all goes black is a hell of the experience and potentially RIP situation.

Thanks everybody for your thoughts and advices.

News:

Author Topic: Blackout during riding (Read 17539 times)

motocopter