jerky off-on throttle ->PC V?

[martin_14]

Yet another thought on the matter: when I read "on/off issue" to me it sounds going from on to off, that is, closing the gas. Hence I wrote "off/on issue", with which I mean opening the gas, which is when the bike "caughs" before reacting, instead of just taking off. I hope I managed to convey what I mean... :/

[Daytona_Mike]

Yet another thought on the matter: when I read "on/off issue" to me it sounds going from on to off, that is, closing the gas. Hence I wrote "off/on issue", with which I mean opening the gas, which is when the bike "caughs" before reacting, instead of just taking off. I hope I managed to convey what I mean... :/

So i ask again:
Why do you have a PCV? Did you install this yourself? Is your bike modified (besides the flies removed)?
Do you have a slip on exhaust upgrade?
You are  not giving us any information or history  on how and why you have a PCV and how it got there.
I think you have a bad or wrong  fuel map unless you had this installed professionally.
Was the bike always like this or did this just start doing this recently?

[martin_14]

Hi Mike,
My dealer installed the PCV some time ago and took the flies out. Results as expected: more torque under 5000 rpm, etc, as described by others too. Map is standard from the CD that came with the PCV.
Jerckiness was before and after, no change, me thinks. And I have a Remus Hexacone muffler that changed the sound and made the bike 200 mph faster... at least 

Sorry that I take long to answer. As I said, I'm on the road. BTW, throttle cable adjusment helped a lot, but it's still there.

[maxtog]

Jerckiness was before and after, no change, me thinks.[...]throttle cable adjusment helped a lot, but it's still there.

http://www.g2ergo.com/g2-tamer-throttle-tubes-1.html

The Throttle Tamer has a cam with a reduced radius initially, which requires a slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle.  This virtually eliminates the jerky “throttle snatch” especially evident in modern fuel injected street bikes.  The radius increases or “ramps up” after ½ throttle to keep overall rotation requires to reach full throttle at or near stock rotation.

Still might not be what you are after, but has a lot of interesting key words    What it would solve would be what I notice the most- at rolloff from low throttle, it comes onto the throttle too quickly, much more quickly than I am used to from my previous (non-FI biles).  This creates a "jerk" as if the throttle is an on/off switch instead of variable, reducing my feeling of control.

[RBX QB]

http://www.g2ergo.com/g2-tamer-throttle-tubes-1.html

The Throttle Tamer has a cam with a reduced radius initially, which requires a slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle.  This virtually eliminates the jerky “throttle snatch” especially evident in modern fuel injected street bikes.  The radius increases or “ramps up” after ½ throttle to keep overall rotation requires to reach full throttle at or near stock rotation.

Still might not be what you are after, but has a lot of interesting key words    What it would solve would be what I notice the most- at rolloff from low throttle, it comes onto the throttle too quickly, much more quickly than I am used to from my previous (non-FI biles).  This creates a "jerk" as if the throttle is an on/off switch instead of variable, reducing my feeling of control.

Definitely helps with the smoothness of the throttle... the stock tube was very abrupt from not giving gas to giving gas (which is most apparent in stop and go traffic, lower speeds). I'm not clear that we've fully defined the "off-on throttle" in this post, but I think the Throttle Tamer might be the solution you're looking for.

[Barry]

Yes, mapping for fuel economy won't help the on/off issue. With the right map, a throttle tamer isn't necessary.

Nope...  read the last couple posts.  Throttle Tamer simply gives you a different "ratio" of throttle tube movement, to throttle body opening.  Like a 1/4 turn race throttle tube, vs. an OEM 3/4 turn throttle tube.  Except Throttle Tamer reduces the speed, where the race tube increase it.  They make multiple versions for different off-road bikes.  They come with like 3-5 cams.  Has nothing to do with the map, they are also used on carbureted bikes.

My bike had ZERO hesitation or coughing at part throttle.  It was simply off then ON, with little ability to vary that easily.  Throttle tamer made the bike much, much easier to ease from not throttle to part throttle.  Best money I've spent.

Barry

[Daytona_Mike]

Those throttle tamers are for  bikes that run correctly.I understand how they work.
This guy (I think is what he is saying) is the bike bogs bad, really bad  out so a throttle tamer cannot fix that.  It is still going to bog out.
He is either going way rich or way lean.
I do not think any of those maps that came on that disk are any good.
I do not know of anyone who even uses those maps.
Hopefully someone else chimes in with better info.
I have a good map for a 2008/2009 but for a full AreaP flies out.

Maybe he can elaborate more. Did he say it DID work correctly from the dealer? Maybe he does mean the bike is too Snappy. If so  a throttle tamer would help. Heck I may get one.
Last weekend we  adjusted the pump values on a GSXR1000 track bike at Barber  Motorsports track with a PowerCommander to smooth out the 'Snap-iness'  and smooth out 'roll-on' and it worked perfect.

[Smokeyzx]

I have a full Area P, flies out, PC V (no autotune), Area P map. It was incredibly jerky at very low speeds and annoying. I took it to MPH here in NE Ohio and had them do a custom tune. I forget what I paid but it was worth every penny. I had him concentrate on the low end and it took care of everything. It is smooth now. I'll post (if I remember) the maps and you can see where the roughness was.

[rcannon409]

As a recently "job impaired" person, I've had nothing to do lately but play with pcv maps.  Both my Ninja 1000 and c14 have them.  The c14 never felt as good, down low, as the Ninja.  For "low", I'm talking about just off  idle, leaving a stop light. I had an annoying flat spot, on the 14, that drove me nuts.

First, mark your throttle with regards to the % open.  Make sure you are very close with regards to 0, 2, 5 and 10 percent.  I ended up noticing my spot was 2% and 2250 rpm and some sort of stumble at 5% 2750.

Go into the fuel table and change the value in that cell to 15. Send the map over, and see how it feels.  You wont hurt anythign and can always go back if you saved the map thats in place. My pcv software does it automatically.  You coudl try 5 or 10 first, but this is like sighting in a gun.  A click or two is tough to notice. Make a larger change your sure to feel, first. You can always back it off.By spending some time with this, my bikes will pull, clean, from right at 1200 rpm.

You cannot really do this without a load on the machine, you need to be riding. dragging the rear brake will increase the load without needing to find a mountain road.





 

[RandyN]

'With the right map, a throttle tamer isn't necessary.'
That is a correct statement. Something is not correct with the PCV or the bike itself.  Either the map is incorrect or the PCV is not setup properly.
Where did you get this map for the PCV? Why do you have a PCV?  Have you had it properly tuned on a dyno so you can see the a/f ratio?
Did you calibrate Throttle position?
You can get an Autotune but it can only help if you fuel maps are  close to correct and not way off.
This is where you can try and fix it yourself depending on if your going rich or lean on throttle open
http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Support/Help/wwhelp/wwhimpl/js/html/wwhelp.htm#href=3_PC5.1.26.html

Has anyone tried using the "Accelerator Pump" feature in the PCV and what values have they found to work well?

[RandyN]

The link you put up was a little off, I found the right page. http://www.fz1-forum.com/forum/gen-ii-mods/8476-power-commander-5-help-accelerator-pump-setting.html . Thanks, that helps.

[rcannon409]

Randy, thanks. Yours is the correct link. Its a pretty decent guide.

[Smokeyzx]

I have a full Area P, flies out, PC V (no autotune), Area P map. It was incredibly jerky at very low speeds and annoying. I took it to MPH here in NE Ohio and had them do a custom tune. I forget what I paid but it was worth every penny. I had him concentrate on the low end and it took care of everything. It is smooth now. I'll post (if I remember) the maps and you can see where the roughness was.

Sorry it took so long.