More brake problems!!!

[jwolffie]

A little resurrection!!! 
My 2011 has gone through hell in 15,000 miles.
New rotors at 5000+ miles. And rear brake issues.
New rotors at 7500+ miles.
New rotors at 13,000+miles.
New front rim, bearings, EBC rotors and pads 14,800 miles.

At least you got a receipt, my dealer dosen't even give me any paperwork when I get warranty work done.
And they suck too

[VirginiaJim]

I THINK a lot of the brake issues are dirty calipers.  These bikes get some serious mileage put on them. Even after  a thousand miles, mine had a serious dusting inside.  I'd imagine a dragging pad would create some serious heat.

I also wondered abotu washing. It cant be good to shoot cold water on a hot rotor, right?

On the other hand, I'll offer a "shut-up". If you compare the brakes on thsi bike to what the 2011-2013 Ninja 1000 came with, these are night and day better.  More power, feel, everything. I had to upgrade my Ninja because switching between bikes, and brakes, was difficult. The Ninja felt Flinstone style in comparison.

As did the C10...

[Conrad]

A little resurrection!!! 

I thought that tying the bike down at bar ends while trailering was a BIG no no?

[Scaffolder]

Sure it ain't the rider?     While brakes have been a bit touchy for some, most aren't having the issues that you are...

I had a lot more luck with my 2008. I had one rotor changed at 15,000 miles. And at 44,000 miles they were still good. Then I totaled it.
I still run my 2010. I had both rotors changed out at 38,000 miles. And at 48,000 miles on it right now it feels good.
Both of those bikes made it past 10,000 miles on the original Bridgestones. My 2011 only made it just over 5,000 miles. I am one of the only owners that have come close to 17,000 miles on a set of PR2s. I think Brian has done this as well. I rode all 3 bikes the same. I simply use them for commuting. 90% highway riding. I may have ridden the 2008 the hardest since it was clearly the fastest color.
Overall the rotor design for these bikes is horrible. If you take a good look around you'll see that a lot of owners have changed the rotors to EBC, and they did that at their expense. Kawasaki should be replacing them for the owners. Especially if they are under warranty.

[Scaffolder]

I THINK a lot of the brake issues are dirty calipers.  These bikes get some serious mileage put on them. Even after  a thousand miles, mine had a serious dusting inside.  I'd imagine a dragging pad would create some serious heat.

I also wondered abotu washing. It cant be good to shoot cold water on a hot rotor, right?

On the other hand, I'll offer a "shut-up". If you compare the brakes on thsi bike to what the 2011-2013 Ninja 1000 came with, these are night and day better.  More power, feel, everything. I had to upgrade my Ninja because switching between bikes, and brakes, was difficult. The Ninja felt Flinstone style in comparison.

I hope it isn't a caliper issue. They didn't change those. You shouldn't have to even look at these brakes until 20,000 miles.
I ride rain or shine. They get really cleaned out during a good downpour.
Thanks for the info on the Ninja. That can go right on my do not buy list. Looking at the Triumph Trophy as a replacement. They use the same brand (NISSIN)as the Concours, but a little different style.

[Scaffolder]

I thought that tying the bike down at bar ends while trailering was a BIG no no?
[/quoteI
I have always trailered like this on all my bikes. Works great Not too much down pressure, but a good tie around the front wheel, and a wrap around tie on the rear wheel. It works like a charm. I do remember someone posting about the bars not being strong enough to support it. If these bars can hold my 240 lbs over the top of a country rode hill, or a stop at a light, it can handle a tie down.

[maxtog]

I thought that tying the bike down at bar ends while trailering was a BIG no no?

The bars/risers are relatively hard aluminum, so they are somewhat brittle.  Cranked down hard with that type of leverage and one major jolt and they could break.  That would make for a bad day.... especially if it results in ALSO dumping the bike.     Probably OK if there are other tiedowns too, but some people will use those ratchet things and crank down on them to the point of really compressing the suspension until that is hard.  Yikes

[PlaynInPeoria]

I got 4k out of the stock rear and 15k out of the brakes.  Other than having to replace tires and brake pads a lot (my fault), it's awesome.

[Scaffolder]

After a quick review of the bike after rim, bearings, EBC rotors, and pads, the bars still wobble when you let go of the bars at most speeds idle riding without brakes. I am already starting to feel some pulsating in the brakes. No where near as bad as the Kawi rotors felt like. I just put 1400 miles on it since last Thursday and can already feel pulsating. This 2011 Concours is completely baffling me. Once it gets a little worse I'll end up having to park it again and have them look at it again. And the EBC brakes have a completely different feel to them.
Meanwhile 2010 Concours is running strong.

[Son of Pappy]

Joel, gotta ask, have you had the suspension and head bearings checked?  Another random idea, on my F800GS the floating rotors create a nasty clunking sound (led to the now infamous Clackstopper, which is a farce), what I did to stop the clunking is simply zip tied each of the rotor buttons, rotors are still floating but the movement is limited and yes, the braking is more consistent. 

Just food for thought and a means to eliminate potential sources as a bad front suspension  or head bearings may acerbate brake issues.

[Scaffolder]

Thanks for the advice. I am letting the dealer check anything they want. This bike has never felt right since I bought it new. For the time being I am just being a guinea pig for Kawasaki to keep trying to fix this particular motorcycle.
I made the mistake of getting a lawyer involved. He has made all of this take a lot longer than it needs to. I should have just filed a New Hampshire Lemon Law case against them.