New bike, questions

[lonekazoo]

Was invited to go along on a 2000 mile trip with some friends through Nevada to Yosemite, but knew my dual-sport thumper wouldn't cut it, so I went bike shopping and found a pristine 2001 C10 with 10K miles on it.  I'm really liking this bike.  Have mounted a GPS, hooked up my Motocomm gear (so all 7 of us can communicate), and have an appointment for a carb sync/cleaning next week.

Couple of questions:  There is something underneath knocking around when going over bumps.  I haven't pinpointed it yet, but I think it's the center stand bouncing around.  Is this normal, or is the spring shot? (This thing obviously spent a lot of time parked, probably on the stand).  Is there anything else more likely to be causing it?

I want to mount an XM radio somewhere.  I'm thinking of putting a 12V cig. outlet on the left lower fairing (just above my knee) and plugging an Audiovox Snap! radio in there.  This is the new radio with the cig. plug built-in, with the audio out jack and antenna jack in the base.  I'm thinking I could mount it so that the flexible stalk puts the display up just below the left handgrip.  I like the Snap! radio since it has the big knob for gloved hands.  You can get this radio (or the Audiovox oNYX) free along with a free month of service right now.  (I don't know if it's OK to post the link, so I better not).   Has anyone used the Snap! radio on a bike in this fashion?



The rear tire (original Dunlop) has some cracking in the tread.  I think I had better replace it and am leaning towards the Avon Venom AM42, keeping the front Dunlop for at least another season (it's in great shape).  Any flaws in this idea?

The windscreen is a Lockhart, about 19" tall.  I haven't seen many comments about this shield.  It causes a lot of turbulence at the helmet level (Scorpion exo-700).  If I crouch about 3" it goes away, but no way I can ride like that.  I don't think I have time to replace it prior to the ride, is there a temporary fix I can try?  Should I try cutting it down?  Is there a laminar lip for this shield?  I actually like looking way over the shield and it's in great shape.

There are lots of other things I'd like to do with the bike after reading most of the posts here, but the ride is in two weeks and I've exhausted my time (and budget).  I really appreciate the forum and hope to contribute after getting more familiar with the bike, and thanks in advance for any comments anyone might have.

Cheers!

George

[syntor]

 There is something underneath knocking around when going over bumps.  I haven't pinpointed it yet, but I think it's the center stand bouncing around.  Is this normal, or is the spring shot? (This thing obviously spent a lot of time parked, probably on the stand).  Is there anything else more likely to be causing it?

I ended up getting a short piece of tie wire, and tying the center stand arm that your foot goes on, to the passenger foot peg. If I want to use the center stand I just un-twitch the wire. Stopped it knocking when going over bumps. Maybe check the rear shock linkages are greased properly.

[Ron Dawg]

Congrats on the new bike. My "new to me" 2000 started making a noise in the top fairing somplace on low speed bumps like RR crossings. It turned out to be a slightly loose top center fairing bolt which is pretty common. I found it when I took the plastic off to get at the engine. That bolt working loose seems to be a common thing and other posters often mention checking it or it can saw through the mounting bracket. I hadn't thought about the center stand. Good luck on the trip, keep us informed!
Ron

[medicevans]

I have a 23.5" Cee Bailey shield for sale. Pm me if interested.  It's exactly 23.5" from bottom of shield to top along the front side midline. The top edge is 21" above the tank straight line down to right in front of the gas cap.

[connie_rider]

Here is a thought; Look at the Side and center stand stops. (Where the stands rest against the Muffler)
There is supposed to be a rubber piece at each location to prevent noise.
If you don't have the rubber piece, a bit of Silicone Glue will work temporarily. (High Temp would be best).
Put a little Silicone at the point of contact and allow it to cure.
The silicone bumper should stop a lot of the bumping noise....

Tire wise, what you want to do will work. Many of us have gone from the Dunlops to the Avons. Avon or Dunlop would tell you not to mix the Tire patterns, but many have done so successfully. After yo mount the tire, just take some time to get a feel of the way it handles. Should be fine...

Windshields are a continuous discussion on the Connie. The Cee Bailey is the Shield that I use.
It is swept back closer to you than other shields. For instance the stock Connie shield is more verticle than the Cee Bailey.
The way he gave you the measurment of his shield is a good way to visualize how it will work for you.

As you have little time to change shields, a possible emergency fix might be to use heavy duty double sided tape and attach a section of clear plastic at the top of your shield. I have not tried it, just a thought...

Ride safe, Ted

[elvin315]

There is something underneath knocking around when going over bumps.  I haven't pinpointed it yet, but I think it's the center stand bouncing around.  Is this normal, or is the spring shot? (This thing obviously spent a lot of time parked, probably on the stand).  Is there anything else more likely to be causing it?

The fairing tends to reflect sounds and obscure their source. Most likely the noise you describe is caused  by a loose fairing mount bolt. There are 3. One at the steering head, and 1 each near the upper motor mount bolts.

The rear tire (original Dunlop) has some cracking in the tread.  I think I had better replace it and am leaning towards the Avon Venom AM42, keeping the front Dunlop for at least another season (it's in great shape).  Any flaws in this idea?

I'd swap the front Dunlop too. If they're both the same age and mileage the front is cracked too. I'm a believer in maximum tire traction. Not just for the sake of sporty handling but for maximum braking and accident avoidance. The OEM Dunlops fall short and the Venoms do too. Any tire available with whitewalls doesn't belong on a Concours. I always suggest Avon Storms and Azaro. They don't wear as long as others but stick like glue whether in the wet or dry. That's worth a few thousand less miles to me when that cement truck turns left in front of me.

The windscreen is a Lockhart, about 19" tall.  I haven't seen many comments about this shield.  It causes a lot of turbulence at the helmet level (Scorpion exo-700).  If I crouch about 3" it goes away, but no way I can ride like that.  I don't think I have time to replace it prior to the ride, is there a temporary fix I can try?  Should I try cutting it down?  Is there a laminar lip for this shield?  I actually like looking way over the shield and it's in great shape.

The Lockhart is a close copy of the OEM shield. Since you prefer to look over the shield it doesn't make sense to add an extender like Baker Built's. A Laminar Lip is available for the OEM shield and will most probably work on the Lockhart. I say chop the Lockhart a few inches and lower the zone of turbulance. It's free. You can always add the Laminar Lip later if the chop doesn't work for you.

For more details on these questions visit the FAQs.

[lonekazoo]

I ended up getting a short piece of tie wire, and tying the center stand arm that your foot goes on, to the passenger foot peg. If I want to use the center stand I just un-twitch the wire. Stopped it knocking when going over bumps. Maybe check the rear shock linkages are greased properly.

Thanks!

I think I'll try tying it up first, and if that doesn't solve it, I'll check the fairing mounts (sounds like I should check them no matter what).  The rubber stops are intact, but the whole stand is sure loose, and when I tap it, it makes a sound very similar to what I'm hearing.

[lonekazoo]

I have a 23.5" Cee Bailey shield for sale. Pm me if interested.  It's exactly 23.5" from bottom of shield to top along the front side midline. The top edge is 21" above the tank straight line down to right in front of the gas cap.

I measured mine again and it is 21" from bottom to top.  I bet a 23.5 would be pretty close for me.  I might need something a little longer (I'm 6').  I did a 200 mile ride today, and now my ears are ringing--and that's with isolation earphones.

[lonekazoo]

As you have little time to change shields, a possible emergency fix might be to use heavy duty double sided tape and attach a section of clear plastic at the top of your shield. I have not tried it, just a thought...

Ride safe, Ted

I experimented with moving my hand around above the shield today, and it looks like another 2 or 3 inches would make all the difference, but it would be right in my field of vision, so not sure I could ride with something attached there.  I think the noise has to do with the dynamics of my helmet.  I can also place my hand around the gap on my visor and the noise goes away.  Maybe some tape on my helment

[medicevans]

Yep, that's why I provided measurements.  I think we should start a windshield measurement thread so people could visualize a shield before they bought it. 

Also, a noisy helmet can be the source of a lot of problems.  Cheap helmets can or cannot be the source of problems.  Try the tape first, it's cheap/free. 

[Tele130]

I experimented with moving my hand around above the shield today, and it looks like another 2 or 3 inches would make all the difference, but it would be right in my field of vision, so not sure I could ride with something attached there.  I think the noise has to do with the dynamics of my helmet.  I can also place my hand around the gap on my visor and the noise goes away.  Maybe some tape on my helment

How old is your helmet?  The rubber gasket around the face opening may be trashed?  The placement of your "MX" radio may not stay there for long.  Not sure that set up would work all too well.  It seems top heavy and with all the bumps and vibrations during a ride, I think it might just fall out.

[connie_rider]

My helmet also has a roar.
I did try another helmet. Rode with a Shoei and it was definitely quiter. Unfortunately buying a Shoei for me and the wife is just too steep.

I found that riding with the shield open quitens it down considerably.
I now ride 90% of the time with it open.

Try that and then lower the shield until you are comfortable with the height/noise.

Ride safe, Ted

.

[Mettler1]

  If your windshield doesn't have a vent hole like the Cee Baily or the Rifle then you get more turbulance and more noise. See below.

   http://www.ceebaileys.com/kawasaki/concoursws.html

     http://rifle.com/Concours%20Windshield%20System-P983.aspx

   Vent at the base of the windshield fills the vacumn behind the shield for a smoother air flow over the top of the windshield.

[cc_ryder]

Connie_rider. Thanks for the tip. I have been looking for a rattle for two years. The bumper for my sidestand was missing. I just replaced it and hope that is it. I will take her out this evening for a shake rattle and roll.

[connie_rider]

Connie_rider. Thanks for the tip. I have been looking for a rattle for two years. The bumper for my sidestand was missing. I just replaced it and hope that is it. I will take her out this evening for a shake rattle and roll.

Not a problem. Hope it helps.
I see your Patriot Guard. Must feel pretty good to honor the Vets and help keep the trash away from folks that have lost someone oversea's.
keep up the good work!

I added vent holes to several Connie Windshields. Easy to do on most windshields and does cut down on the turbulance.

Ride safe, Ted

[lonekazoo]

I strapped the center stand up with a nylon tie-wrap, and that did the trick.  If I need the stand, I'll just stomp on it.

I'm tempted to cut the Lockhart shield down, and then later pick up a new shield for the colder months.  I'm a lightweight, and tend to get sore neck muscles very easily, so maybe I will prefer looking through a shield on longer trips.  I did a 500 miler on a ZX-14 recently and couldn't move my neck for two weeks!

And the turbulent noise from the helmet is definately reduced when I open the visor.

Thanks for all the tips!  I'll post a ride report when I get back.

[lonekazoo]

The placement of your "MX" radio may not stay there for long.  Not sure that set up would work all too well.  It seems top heavy and with all the bumps and vibrations during a ride, I think it might just fall out.

Yeah, that's my worry.  I'm installing two 12V outlets (one under temp. gauge, one in the left glovebox), so I'll try it out in one of those sockets first before I cut another hole.  It's actually pretty light on top.  I'm thinking I could attach a loop of velcro higher up on the stalk and secure it to the bike, yet easy to remove the entire thing for rain and parking.

[lonekazoo]

Just completed my 2000 mile trip, complete with XM Radio.  Here are a couple pictures of how I mounted it:







Everything worked perfectly.  I taped the antenna just inside the windscreen, and tucked the extra antenna wire in the left side glove box.  It never moved or rotated in the cig. socket.  It's *very* lightweight.

The only small problem is that turning the handlebars to the right stop causes the clutch lever to hit the XM head.  It's a flexible stalk, so it doesn't damage anything, just bends it a bit.

(The reason I have two GPS's is that I use the older one for Ham APRS)

I also enjoyed my new Avon Azaro rear tire, especially on the twisties in Yosemite and Tioga and Sonora passes.