A coupla things come to mind here, semi-floating rotor buttons tend to become non-floating pretty quickly! Causing the rotor to lock into a position that most likely ain't good. Thus your run-out.
Also calipers need to be positioned so the rotor runs through the caliper casting pretty close to the center of the casting. Otherwise you get a rotor that could be shaving the caliper at worst or just off-center so much that the pistons on one side are too far out of their bores (extended) while the other side is barely moving at all. Go look straight at the caliper from the front of the bike looking back and see if the rotor is shifted to one side or the other. Guarantee that just about all the bikes on this board will be off somewhat! This is a function of where the pinch/axle bolts are holding the bottom of the fork tubes, all it takes it one tip over or a wheel change where the mech did not bother to center the fork legs on the axle.
So.... lube the snot out of the carrier buttons and work them free with your hands, thus making them semi-floating again (very important).
Next... check that the rotor/wheel assy is centered in the caliper casting as above. This can be done by releasing the pressure in the hydraulic/brake system, loosening all the triple clamp bolts slightly as well as the axle and pinch bolts and re-tighten (using correct torque) everything so as to end up with a triple clamp > forks > axle > caliper/rotor alignment.
Fretka
1 fork leg actually floats, not sure what leg as I am not looking at my bike at the moment, but you can get one leg and that same caliper out of alignment. After you tighten the pinch bolts it won't move.
If you have a service manual it explains pumping the forks up and down to allign the forks then tightening the pinch bolts and the only possible reason for this is if 1 side floats. I could be wrong, it has also been a while since I had my front end apart, and my aging memory kinda sucks after 40!!
If you have a service manual it explains pumping the forks up and down to allign the forks then tightening the pinch bolts and the only possible reason for this is if 1 side floats. I could be wrong, it has also been a while since I had my front end apart, and my aging memory kinda sucks after 40!!That's what I was talking about. I am not clear on why but assumje Kawasaki has a reason for specifying this procedure. The fork situation is possibly similar with my '99 VFR. The manual specifies that you check for minimum clearance (.7 mm) of caliper to rotor clearance on one side after front wheel installation. A .7mm feeler gauge is even included in the tool kit.
A long time ago a rider was in SEA on a quest for for some good Amboyan Burl.
<snip>
The quest will continue some day for the elusive Burl....
So what. It ain't SEA. I don't remember any pine trees there. It don't count.
A coupla things come to mind here, semi-floating rotor buttons tend to become non-floating pretty quickly! Causing the rotor to lock into a position that most likely ain't good. Thus your run-out.
Also calipers need to be positioned so the rotor runs through the caliper casting pretty close to the center of the casting. Otherwise you get a rotor that could be shaving the caliper at worst or just off-center so much that the pistons on one side are too far out of their bores (extended) while the other side is barely moving at all. Go look straight at the caliper from the front of the bike looking back and see if the rotor is shifted to one side or the other. Guarantee that just about all the bikes on this board will be off somewhat! This is a function of where the pinch/axle bolts are holding the bottom of the fork tubes, all it takes it one tip over or a wheel change where the mech did not bother to center the fork legs on the axle.
So.... lube the snot out of the carrier buttons and work them free with your hands, thus making them semi-floating again (very important).
Next... check that the rotor/wheel assy is centered in the caliper casting as above. This can be done by releasing the pressure in the hydraulic/brake system, loosening all the triple clamp bolts slightly as well as the axle and pinch bolts and re-tighten (using correct torque) everything so as to end up with a triple clamp > forks > axle > caliper/rotor alignment.
Fretka
I can't move mine at all... I'm button challenged. How do we 'free' them up without introducing a warpage? Warp is only good on the Enterprise.